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Unread 09-17-2011, 08:07 PM   #1
LibertyJeeper
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1985 CJ7 
 
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Drive shafts angles and 4" lift

I recently put in a 4" bds lift. I used the one inch transfer case drop and the rear degree shims as a temp fix.

Now I am ready to upgrade to a rear CV shaft, weld the perches to rpoper angle and remove the 1" TC drop.

My question is how is that going to leave my front axle drive angles? I currently have 6 degree castor shims in the front. I am not having a problem now, but when I push the TC up another inch what should I expect?

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Originally Posted by walkerhoundvm View Post
Just keep in mind: things are never as bad as they seem. These are jeeps, built by man and any problems you come across can be solved by man - even you! Best of luck.
Looking for axles 4.10's or higher
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Unread 09-17-2011, 08:47 PM   #2
gojeepin
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The deflection angle will be greater, but I doubt it will matter...

Since you'll most likely drive with the front hubs unlocked and the front driveshaft disengaged at highway speeds, I doubt you'll have a vibration problem.

You just need to make sure the u-joints don't bind up when you're using 4-wheel drive... the ears of the pinion or driveshaft bottoming out on the opposing component.
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Vibration? Bump steer? Wandering? Read: Steering, suspension, and driveline basics. An article on how it works and where to look for problems.

83 CJ7, 4.1L 6cyl (4.0L bored .030" over), 35" tires, T-5 transmission, Dana 300 TC, Trussed AMC 20.
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Unread 09-17-2011, 09:02 PM   #3
LibertyJeeper
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Thanks! That is what I was hoping
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Quote:
Originally Posted by walkerhoundvm View Post
Just keep in mind: things are never as bad as they seem. These are jeeps, built by man and any problems you come across can be solved by man - even you! Best of luck.
Looking for axles 4.10's or higher
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Unread 09-18-2011, 06:45 AM   #4
nshefbuch
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worse case you would need a cv shaft for the front. The front driveshaft is longer so it allows more tolerance before having to switch to cv style. The problem area will be when flexing out. If you bind that shaft even once it will snap something. Mine is a complete custom setup but for reference my angle wasn't bad on a conventional u joint but at 3/4 flex it would bind therefor I switched to cv style. If budget is tight you could run rear wheel drive only till funds are there.
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Unread 09-18-2011, 11:44 AM   #5
rainjeep
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Im looking into doing this Tom Woods or Tatton Rear cv drive shaft upgrade to my jeep cj7, I was wondering if anyone here knows of a Thread with pictures of how to do this on a cj7?
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Unread 09-18-2011, 11:56 AM   #6
gojeepin
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For rainjeep and the OP... In case you haven't yet... read the article in my signature block for the driveline basics.

While it's not a step-by-step how-to manual, it will give you the information on what angles you should be trying to achieve.
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Vibration? Bump steer? Wandering? Read: Steering, suspension, and driveline basics. An article on how it works and where to look for problems.

83 CJ7, 4.1L 6cyl (4.0L bored .030" over), 35" tires, T-5 transmission, Dana 300 TC, Trussed AMC 20.
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Unread 09-18-2011, 01:52 PM   #7
LibertyJeeper
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My plan is to take a CV drive shaft out of a XJ or a Explorer and have it trimmed.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by walkerhoundvm View Post
Just keep in mind: things are never as bad as they seem. These are jeeps, built by man and any problems you come across can be solved by man - even you! Best of luck.
Looking for axles 4.10's or higher
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Unread 09-18-2011, 10:29 PM   #8
rainjeep
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gojeepin View Post
For rainjeep and the OP... In case you haven't yet... read the article in my signature block for the driveline basics.

While it's not a step-by-step how-to manual, it will give you the information on what angles you should be trying to achieve.

Wow!!! what an article!!! very well written infortmation about the cv driveshaft. but i have a question for you gojeeping.

Will i have to upgrade both stock driveshafts to the double cv driveshafts for me not to have any problem with vibrations? or will i be fine by doing the rear one only? my jeep is mostly driven on the street.
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Unread 09-18-2011, 10:42 PM   #9
rainjeep
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LibertyJeeper View Post
My plan is to take a CV drive shaft out of a XJ or a Explorer and have it trimmed.

I wonder if i should do this too, instead of spending all that money on a rear cv driveshaft from tom woods since i only drive on the streets. please post pics of this upgrade if you can.
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Unread 09-18-2011, 11:00 PM   #10
foggybottombob
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I have a 7" lifted SOA CJ7 with XJ front drive shafts front and back. Of course they were both custom cut to the right length by a local driveline shop. You can change the u-joints in a junkyard drive shaft yourself. It costs $75 here to have the driveline shop lengthen or shorten the shaft and balance it. The junkyard shaft is about $25. So that's $100 plus the cost of 3 u-joints.
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Unread 09-19-2011, 03:32 AM   #11
nshefbuch
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Quote:
Originally Posted by foggybottombob
I have a 7" lifted SOA CJ7 with XJ front drive shafts front and back. Of course they were both custom cut to the right length by a local driveline shop. You can change the u-joints in a junkyard drive shaft yourself. It costs $75 here to have the driveline shop lengthen or shorten the shaft and balance it. The junkyard shaft is about $25. So that's $100 plus the cost of 3 u-joints.
I paid $185 for my front tattoon shaft, 1310 cv all brand new with u joints installed and all made in America and he puts that long 6" spline shaft on all his shafts. Cant beat that! My rear was more as I've added one ton joints
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Unread 09-19-2011, 07:00 AM   #12
foggybottombob
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I buy the gold ring u-joints from Tom Woods. They have held up well for me.
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