DIY Double Cardan rear drive line for CJ - Page 4 - JeepForum.com

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post #46 of 71 Old 07-01-2013, 11:05 PM
Alex77cj7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CSP
I'm SOA on 2.5" lift springs and single cardan is fine in front. Unless you have a Dana 300 that's clocked, even with SOA an single cardan usually does the trick.

Remember, you're not usually driving down the road at speeds where driveline vibrations take place with the front driveshaft spinning.
Okay. Well do you have any idea what I can take a driveshaft out of to make a good front replacement?


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post #47 of 71 Old 07-02-2013, 10:56 AM
Alex77cj7
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Turns out my shaft is 26 spline 1 1/8" and the yoke I grabbed is like 1 3/8". Are some of the xjs going to have a 1 1/8" yoke?

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post #48 of 71 Old 07-02-2013, 01:34 PM
jeepwhore
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alex77cj7
Turns out my shaft is 26 spline 1 1/8" and the yoke I grabbed is like 1 3/8". Are some of the xjs going to have a 1 1/8" yoke?
Like I mentioned earlier, the yoke has to come from a 231J tcase. I can't tell you which years have it but I know there are other varieties of 231. . The model number is on a round tag screwed to the back end of the case. Are you sure the yoke you got is from a 231? There are other cases found in xj's and zj's

'84 CJ-7: Yota axles (spartan locked front, e-locked rear) 4" BDS, 1" Daystar & 3/8" shackle lifts, 35" X-Terrains on steelies, YJ Tub & family roll bar, heater blower upgrade, 4.2L w/MC2100 & Team Rush, Warn 8274. Rebuilt 4.2/4.0 hybrid, AX15 and twin sticks/clocking ring waiting to go in.

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post #49 of 71 Old 07-02-2013, 02:02 PM
Alex77cj7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepwhore

Like I mentioned earlier, the yoke has to come from a 231J tcase. I can't tell you which years have it but I know there are other varieties of 231. . The model number is on a round tag screwed to the back end of the case. Are you sure the yoke you got is from a 231? There are other cases found in xj's and zj's
Got one thank y'all so much

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post #50 of 71 Old 11-17-2013, 02:01 PM
lsukevinc
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Ok I need some help. I have a 79cj 5 with the Dana 18 transfer case (26 splines) I bought a front drive shaft from a 96 Cherokee and I was informed from this thread to buy a yolk from a Dana 300 for it to work. The yolk from the 300 is too wide. The mounting holes on my drive shaft are 2.5 inches apart and the u joint it approximately 3.25 inches apart. Do I need a jolk from a 242j? Why is this not working?
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post #51 of 71 Old 11-17-2013, 02:40 PM
CSP
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Not sure why you were told to use a Dana 300 yoke. No Dana 300 ever had a CV shaft from the factory, so even if the size was correct, it wouldn't work on a CV joint.

I would normally say that the front yoke from a Qtrac tcase (BW1339) or a NP231 front yoke would work, but I'm puzzled by this 26 spline Dana 18. A Dana 18 should be 10 spline. You're sure that it's a Dana 18?
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post #52 of 71 Old 11-17-2013, 02:48 PM
lsukevinc
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I have a Dana 20 sorry. And when I looked up the specs for a 231 yolk, the bolt holes are too far apart as well
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post #53 of 71 Old 11-17-2013, 06:06 PM Thread Starter
82JeepCJ7
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If you have a front drive line off a Cherokee, a 231 yolk will fit.

Beat it to fit, paint it to match!

Wheel, Wrench, Repeat.
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post #54 of 71 Old 11-17-2013, 06:21 PM
lsukevinc
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According to the web, the 96 Cherokee could have come with the np231 or the np242j. I bought the shaft used so I don't know what transfer case it came from. I looked up the dimensions of a front yolk of a 231 and it appeared to be too big. could some one be kind enought to measure the bolt spacing on their front yolk on a 231 and let me know what it is? See the pictures I posters earlier.
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post #55 of 71 Old 01-10-2014, 08:14 AM
lsukevinc
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I finally got everything installed last night. When i went to install the nut on the yolk, the nut did not go on all of the way. You could still see two threads of the nut when it was tighten down all the way. Also i had to back the nut off a little bit. If i tightened it all of the way, the yolk would not spin freely on the back of the transmission. What gives? Do i need a thinner nut on the yolk?
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post #56 of 71 Old 01-10-2014, 03:15 PM
cjjon7
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Im working on the same project... the yoke I pulled from the cherokee is what I plan on using, however the dust shield thats pressed on the rear of it is in a slightly more shallow position that causes it to bind on the case when fully installed... Im going to try and press it further on right now actually.

Not sure if this is the issue youre having?
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post #57 of 71 Old 01-11-2014, 10:15 AM
Alex77cj7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cjjon7
Im working on the same project... the yoke I pulled from the cherokee is what I plan on using, however the dust shield thats pressed on the rear of it is in a slightly more shallow position that causes it to bind on the case when fully installed... Im going to try and press it further on right now actually. Not sure if this is the issue youre having?
I had that problem too. All I did is knock the dust shield off of the new and old one and press the old dust shield on the new yoke. Worked perfectly.

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post #58 of 71 Old 01-11-2014, 10:16 AM
Alex77cj7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cjjon7
Im working on the same project... the yoke I pulled from the cherokee is what I plan on using, however the dust shield thats pressed on the rear of it is in a slightly more shallow position that causes it to bind on the case when fully installed... Im going to try and press it further on right now actually. Not sure if this is the issue youre having?
Oh and all I used was a BFH and a bench vice.

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post #59 of 71 Old 01-11-2014, 02:08 PM
cjjon7
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Did the same yesterday, however the machined.surface on the new yoke is larger dia than the old, so the dust shield won't go on, you.experience this/
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post #60 of 71 Old 01-11-2014, 02:59 PM
lsukevinc
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So pull the dust shield off of the np231 yolk?
I ended up ordering a pinion nut yesterday for the np231 which is the flanged nut
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