DIY Double Cardan rear drive line for CJ - Page 3 - JeepForum.com
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Unread 02-16-2013, 08:38 PM   #31
83vert
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CSP View Post
Any '91-01 Ford Explorer front driveshaft is another good donor. I worked at a hot rod shop in college that also was the local driveshaft shop. We built shafts from tiny cars to mining dumptrucks/loaders. We never balanced driveshafts. We did get the runout to be less than 0.005" though, which took care of any balancing issues.

'82 I thought you had converted your D300 to a flange type output. I remember that from another thread.
I used the Explorer driveshaft and it worked out great for me. I had it shortened and balanced at a local driveshaft shop.


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Unread 03-11-2013, 04:27 PM   #32
lsukevinc
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i have a dana 20 transfer case and i am too interested in this fix. Anyone know what yolk i would need to find to make this work?
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Unread 03-11-2013, 05:17 PM   #33
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That depends on how many splines your Dana 20 has. Most likely it's not the 10 spliine and you can use the front yoke off of a pre-1980 fullsize Jeep with the Quadratrac transfer case or one from an XJ or TJ with the NP231 transfer case. Any driveline shop can also get the correct Spicer yoke.
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Unread 03-12-2013, 08:16 AM   #34
lsukevinc
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ok, what yolk is needed for the model 20 rear axle?
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Unread 03-12-2013, 08:41 AM   #35
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You don't need to change the yoke on the rear axle. Use the one it has. The one at the transfer case end has to change because the bolt pattern is different with a CV shaft.
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Unread 03-12-2013, 09:23 AM   #36
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I would modify or replace the one on the rear axle to use U-bolts instead of the weak straps.
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Unread 04-08-2013, 04:39 PM   #37
lsukevinc
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will the yolk off of a dana 300 transfer case with 26 splines work on my dana 20 with 26 splines for the double cardan drive shaft? i picked up a front drive shaft off of a 96 cherokee and now i am looking for the correct yolk for the rear of my transfer case.
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Unread 04-08-2013, 05:09 PM   #38
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Yes, they are the same spline count and diameter.
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Unread 04-08-2013, 05:11 PM   #39
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Yes it will.
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Unread 07-01-2013, 06:43 PM   #40
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I'm having troubles. I got the front driveshaft and yoke off of the 231 to put on my 300 shortened driveshaft and went to install yoke and it's too big. The diameter of my 300 output is much smaller than the 231. Anyone else had this problem? Where can I get the right yoke? Is there a doner vehicle I could use?
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Unread 07-01-2013, 07:39 PM   #41
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Was it off a 231J? There are various models of 231. I got my yoke off a wagoneer with BW1339 tcase, they work on the D300 as well
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Unread 07-01-2013, 07:55 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepwhore
Was it off a 231J? There are various models of 231. I got my yoke off a wagoneer with BW1339 tcase, they work on the D300 as well
It was from an xj. I guess I can go look at several different ones at the junk yard and try to find one that's the right size. What can I use for the front driveshaft?
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Unread 07-01-2013, 09:24 PM   #43
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The front shaft is long enough that you shouldn't need a CV type shaft.
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Unread 07-01-2013, 09:35 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CSP
The front shaft is long enough that you shouldn't need a CV type shaft.
Well I'm soa and I just swapped to a t176 from a t150 so I need a longer front.
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Unread 07-01-2013, 10:58 PM   #45
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I'm SOA on 2.5" lift springs and single cardan is fine in front. Unless you have a Dana 300 that's clocked, even with SOA an single cardan usually does the trick.

Remember, you're not usually driving down the road at speeds where driveline vibrations take place with the front driveshaft spinning.
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