Distributor grounding - Page 2 - JeepForum.com
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post #16 of 18 Old 01-21-2010, 08:51 AM
pcg7384
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1981 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Oregon
Posts: 151
What would be my indications if the ground to the distributor was weak or intermittent? I've been wrestling with an erratic idle for a while as well as a loss of top end power. I've done nearly everything on this forum (minus a direct grounding to the distributor). Here's the list:
258 w/ 160K on it (I think, may be 460K for all I know)
Kitted carter BBD 2bbl
Added grounds: Alt, Head, frame, starter, tub
Team Rush
8* BTDC timing with no ping (could I retard that and get better results?)
87 octane with 10% ethenal gas (may be an issue)

My problem is intermittent. When warm after sitting for a few minutes, starts up and runs great until the warm choke feature goes away. Then, back to chugging and popping. Seems to me like an electrical issue. When my jeep runs good, the volt meter shows 14.5 volts (no load) and when rough it shows 15.1. Could this be a ground? Thanks,
Phil

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post #17 of 18 Old 01-21-2010, 03:09 PM
JeepHammer
Running On Empty...
1973 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: South West Indiana
Posts: 11,180
Quote:
Originally Posted by BioTex View Post
What is the best way to ground a 79' stock 304 distributor? Am I supposed to run a physical ground wire from the housing, or are we talking about grounding it electrically as in the black wire that goes to the ign. module?
Black wire that goes to the ignition module.
The distributor doesn't have to be grounded to function,
but the ignition module does, and it gets 'Ground' through the distributor housing...

You can splice into the 'Ground' wire at any point and add a dedicated ground so the module doesn't have to fight to complete the circuit.

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post #18 of 18 Old 01-21-2010, 06:58 PM
Fjguercio
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1978 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Burnsville, MN
Posts: 2,812
Quote:
Originally Posted by pcg7384 View Post
What would be my indications if the ground to the distributor was weak or intermittent? I've been wrestling with an erratic idle for a while as well as a loss of top end power. I've done nearly everything on this forum (minus a direct grounding to the distributor). Here's the list:
258 w/ 160K on it (I think, may be 460K for all I know)
Kitted carter BBD 2bbl
Added grounds: Alt, Head, frame, starter, tub
Team Rush
8* BTDC timing with no ping (could I retard that and get better results?)
87 octane with 10% ethenal gas (may be an issue)

My problem is intermittent. When warm after sitting for a few minutes, starts up and runs great until the warm choke feature goes away. Then, back to chugging and popping. Seems to me like an electrical issue. When my jeep runs good, the volt meter shows 14.5 volts (no load) and when rough it shows 15.1. Could this be a ground? Thanks,
Phil
Jeephammer missed your post.... you kinda hitched onto an old one. He would have been a good one to see this.



There are a few things you can try.

Sounds like you may have a bit of fuel problem or maybe weak spark and there is also a carb trick to do also.

The BBD carb likes to plug the idle tubes. So with safety glasses and face shield if you have with the CJ running look in carb and you will see two tubes if they are dribbling they are plugged.

Normal process or is to drill those out to .032" so they are less likely to plug with crystals or gas debree. If you have not done that you can search Drill Out BBD Idle Tubes.

Second sounds like fuel plug too. I would change out your fuel filter. The filter has two exits. The top one needs to go the the return line or it can hose stuff up too. Also just prrior to carb is a U shaped metal tube.... JUNK likes to collect there and go into carb. They need a good cleaning. It needs to be removed carefully with 2 wrenches and installed with two wrenches so you do not change the tighness on body... it will change your float set. But very worthwile to do.

If you have not done a rebuild kit for BBD is some time that maybe good time to do it also... $20 and can help with issues and give a good base line as well as good cleaning.

The manifolds are long and heavy and like to loosen up. Ck that are snug, start in center and just ck and work your way out in circle. Do a gradual tighten up and ck the maual for torque spec it like 25 ft#. That will help if you have manifold leak and ck the tighness of your carb mtds to manifold too.

Good Grounds.... there is one other the black wire going into the duraspark modual on drivers fender. WEak links is ground it gets from alumium distibutor. So it gets aground just like JeepHammer said above. Black wire on harness side 6" back cut wire and solder in 12 awg black wire and run to firewall or battery ground. You did not mention that one. Put a little dielectric grease on it and slide the heat shrink you put on wire prior and shrink it down. WHEN i work with connectors I mate them 8-10 times to wipe the conctacts down to clean surface. Add dielectric grease and mate for last time... keeps junk out, moisture, and keeps clean terminal from corroding. If very nasty at first look try to clean with alchol or brake cleaner and nylon tooth brush to get rid of most junk. The do wipe process.

If that does not do it for you. The pick up in tank might be picking up stuff. could have some moisture / water in the tank that could cause this too. Always keep the tank 3/4 to full or so in the winter months... Keeps condensation out. Also once you gas get very old 4-6 mo that can have affects too. So if been sitting might want to try a can of dry gas.

Last idea if still not right after that.... Take rubber hose of and pump gas into container with help of friend as you crank engine. Should get a pt of gas in 15-20 sec or so. Milk container or water container would work well.

Hope that helps.



87 octain with 10 ethanol is not the best gas. Try 89 and see if that helps any too.

Sometimes on the older Jeeps you do not need all that initial time. I have use 3-9 initial and use 8 for a bit... too much and was harder starting. I lowered it to 6 much better. So just because some here say use 8-10 thats the computer yrs making up for computer removal and not engough advance in distributor. Back that off to 5-6 and see if you like better.


John Strenk has some gauge info at the bottom of his signage. I would try a ground to the dash pannel... thats how they get ground and weak spot. See if that helps.
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