Distributor grounding - JeepForum.com

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post #1 of 18 Old 02-21-2009, 06:49 AM Thread Starter
BioTex
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Distributor grounding

What is the best way to ground a 79' stock 304 distributor? Am I supposed to run a physical ground wire from the housing, or are we talking about grounding it electrically as in the black wire that goes to the ign. module?


'85 CJ7, BDS 4" lift, 1" Body lift, 33x12.5, Shrockworks Sliders, 304 V8 with RV cam., T-176, D300, Dana 30, AMC 20.
1986 CJ10-A SD-33 Diesel/727/np208
1971 800B with 345/T-19
06' TJ Rubicon, 4" R.C. springs, BFG/AT 35s M.C. 6" fenders, rockers and surrounds, Currie front & rear adj. tracbars, tattons DC rear shaft, adj. upper - lower CA's. Bilstein 5100's
YJ Buggy Build Current project. Stroker/FI ?
1990 MJ Comanche 4.0L AX15/np231
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post #2 of 18 Old 02-21-2009, 09:14 AM
Bubba Ray
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I have heard of this but can't help you. I would like to do this to my 258.
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post #3 of 18 Old 02-21-2009, 09:42 AM
scottymac62
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Ask JeepHammer. He will tell you the correct way to do it.
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post #4 of 18 Old 02-21-2009, 10:23 AM
Bakunin
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post #5 of 18 Old 02-21-2009, 10:27 AM Thread Starter
BioTex
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scottymac62 View Post
Ask JeepHammer. He will tell you the correct way to do it.
I know he recommends to ground the black wire coming out of the module per his diagram, but just need to know if I should also physicaly ground the dist. or is the hold down clamp enough?

PS I have read that post before, that is why I'm switching from HEI to TeamRush! Just trying to be thorough on the ground thing so I don't abuse my stock module. If it gives out, I will have a Stealth HEI as a backup.

'85 CJ7, BDS 4" lift, 1" Body lift, 33x12.5, Shrockworks Sliders, 304 V8 with RV cam., T-176, D300, Dana 30, AMC 20.
1986 CJ10-A SD-33 Diesel/727/np208
1971 800B with 345/T-19
06' TJ Rubicon, 4" R.C. springs, BFG/AT 35s M.C. 6" fenders, rockers and surrounds, Currie front & rear adj. tracbars, tattons DC rear shaft, adj. upper - lower CA's. Bilstein 5100's
YJ Buggy Build Current project. Stroker/FI ?
1990 MJ Comanche 4.0L AX15/np231
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post #6 of 18 Old 02-21-2009, 11:04 AM
Old4X
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Won't hurt a thing to ground both, thats what I did.
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post #7 of 18 Old 02-21-2009, 11:26 AM
Fjguercio
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Black wire input to Duraspark Modual harness side or do both.

Ground your head(s) also at min
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post #8 of 18 Old 02-21-2009, 12:47 PM
CJ Chet
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You can NEVER have TOO many grounds!

'86 CJ7
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post #9 of 18 Old 02-24-2009, 11:13 AM
Dirtypooper
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I just replaced the prestolite ignition module in my 79 304 1 month ago. It have a fiberglass body and is frame grounded.
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post #10 of 18 Old 02-24-2009, 01:17 PM Thread Starter
BioTex
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I don't understand why the distributor needs a ground in the first place. It's just a housing for electronic componets, Seems to me it you wouldn't want to ground it. Wouldn't you be asking for the spark inside to be able to jump to ground? The housing of the distributor is far enough away from voltage, that it shouldn't matter. Please someone explain why this ground is necessary?

'85 CJ7, BDS 4" lift, 1" Body lift, 33x12.5, Shrockworks Sliders, 304 V8 with RV cam., T-176, D300, Dana 30, AMC 20.
1986 CJ10-A SD-33 Diesel/727/np208
1971 800B with 345/T-19
06' TJ Rubicon, 4" R.C. springs, BFG/AT 35s M.C. 6" fenders, rockers and surrounds, Currie front & rear adj. tracbars, tattons DC rear shaft, adj. upper - lower CA's. Bilstein 5100's
YJ Buggy Build Current project. Stroker/FI ?
1990 MJ Comanche 4.0L AX15/np231
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post #11 of 18 Old 02-24-2009, 02:06 PM
Fjguercio
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BioTex View Post
I don't understand why the distributor needs a ground in the first place. It's just a housing for electronic componets, Seems to me it you wouldn't want to ground it. Wouldn't you be asking for the spark inside to be able to jump to ground? The housing of the distributor is far enough away from voltage, that it shouldn't matter. Please someone explain why this ground is necessary?
The stock Ford DuarSpark Ignition uses the Distributor as the ground for the system. The Distribtor aluminum and steel mounting cause issue those metals corrode, the oil varnished and dirt cause issue, and its 30 years old or more for many of us. There is a gasket on the distributor mount and the mount screw most likley has rust too. So we add a aux ground to the ground input of ignition modual that is wired to distributor. The distributor has a magnetic pick up too that takes power. It is optional but can add a ground to the distributor also.

IN the past JeepHammer said to add aux ground to ignition modual and could also ground the distributor.

Hope that helps,
Fred
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post #12 of 18 Old 02-24-2009, 02:18 PM
bleoh
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The distributor is the ground for the ignition module that reads the VR signal and drives the coil. The spark grounds through the plug to the head and thus the extra ground wire from the head to the direct path back to the battery.
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post #13 of 18 Old 02-24-2009, 02:37 PM Thread Starter
BioTex
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Ok, that would make sense. Wonder why the factory didn't just ground the black wire that feeds the module to begin with. I added the extra ground per JH's suggestion, so I don't think I need the distributor ground since it's all gleaned and polished for now. Maybe in another 20 years...

'85 CJ7, BDS 4" lift, 1" Body lift, 33x12.5, Shrockworks Sliders, 304 V8 with RV cam., T-176, D300, Dana 30, AMC 20.
1986 CJ10-A SD-33 Diesel/727/np208
1971 800B with 345/T-19
06' TJ Rubicon, 4" R.C. springs, BFG/AT 35s M.C. 6" fenders, rockers and surrounds, Currie front & rear adj. tracbars, tattons DC rear shaft, adj. upper - lower CA's. Bilstein 5100's
YJ Buggy Build Current project. Stroker/FI ?
1990 MJ Comanche 4.0L AX15/np231
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post #14 of 18 Old 02-24-2009, 08:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BioTex View Post
What is the best way to ground a 79' stock 304 distributor? Am I supposed to run a physical ground wire from the housing, or are we talking about grounding it electrically as in the black wire that goes to the ign. module?
Actually, the stock distributor DOES NOT need to be grounded for the DISTRIBUTORS END of things...
But the distributor housing does supply the ground for the primary side of the ignition system in the Jeep/Motorcraft ignition (also breaker points and GM HEI)

You simply find the all black wire on the HARNESS SIDE of the distributor wiring,
Splice a ground wire into that and you should be fine.

The Factory Jeep/Motorcraft distributor supplies electrical ground to the Moudule/Coil through the distributor housing,
And we all know the distributors get corroded up, caked with oil residue and don't supply the needed ground to the module and coil (Primary Ignition System).

Simply cut or splice into the HARNESS SIDE of the distributor wiring, and supply that ALL BLACK wire with a dedicated ground.
That's all there is to it!
---------------------------------

If you want to supply the SECONDARY IGNITION CIRCUIT with a dedicated ground,
Make sure you run a dedicated ground wire (Can be the same one with no problems) To the engine Head(s) so the spark plugs can properly ground...

Remember, your vehicle is a 23+ year old rusty, corroded wreck... Electrically speaking...
Adding some dedicated grounds to the primary components is ALWAYS a good idea!
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post #15 of 18 Old 02-24-2009, 09:03 PM
CJ Chet
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CJ Chet View Post
You can NEVER have TOO many grounds!
What he said!!

'86 CJ7
'04 AEV RUBICON
2015 Grand Cherokee Limited
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