Disk brakes? - JeepForum.com
Search  
Sign Up   Today's Posts
User: Pass: Remember?
Advertise Here
Jeep Home Jeep Forum Jeep Classifieds Jeep Registry JeepSpace Jeep Reviews Jeep Gallery Jeep Clubs Jeep Groups Jeep Videos Jeep Events Jeep Articles
Go Back JeepForum.com > Models > Jeep CJ Forum > Disk brakes?

Cess Recovery Gear Snatch Tow Strap OffRoad @ ROCKRIDGE4WDGEARSHADE Pocket Tops in stock and available at ROCKRIDGE Engo winches available at www.rockridge4wd.com! Free shipp

Reply
Unread 12-06-2011, 07:35 PM   #1
mryabuddy1
Registered User
1959 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: grand junction, colorado
Posts: 3
Disk brakes?

What make/model of disk brakes will bolt up to my 1959 cj5?

mryabuddy1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 12-06-2011, 09:26 PM   #2
Jsederlin
Registered User
1997 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Grand Junction, Colorado
Posts: 29
Do you really need to replace the rotors, drums, lines, etc? Or do you just need a brake service to replace pads, the little bits (springs, etc.) and bleed your system? If there's nothing actually wrong with the big pieces there's no point in spending all that money when a simple brake job will do. All the parts are available at Fruitas Napa store and they'll be able to tell you just what you need part number-wise.
Jsederlin is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 12-06-2011, 10:21 PM   #3
Mickey_D
Registered User
1997 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: 40 3'42.36"N 112 2'16.73"W, Utah
Posts: 6,708
JP magazine did a tech article on this. I have it on another computer.

You need the calipers, caliper mounting plates and brake hoses from a 73-78 Chevy 1/2 ton 4WD with the D44 front axle. The 1.125" rotors from a 76 CJ. Longer wheel studs.

I'll try to find you the actual article as it gives in depth instructions on the grinding of the knuckle and caliper required. Things like the fact that the rotor needs to be mounted BEHIND the hub.

I found all the part numbers (except the caliper mounting brackets) for right around $200 - $250.


Jsederlin, you drive a YJ. You at least have half an idea what properly working brakes feel like. The first generation CJ-5's like mine and mryabuddy1's have four wheel non-power assisted 9" drum brakes. A 1965 Volkswagen Beetle had better brakes. There are really only two things we can do to make our Jeeps stop reliably - an 11" drum upgrade (only marginally better than the 9") or a disk conversion. And since we can use off-the-shelf components, it really is a no brainer.

I've measured mine - the stopping distance for my Jeep stock with 31's is 2.5 times what my stock ZJ with 31's did from 60mph to zero. Even with using the transmission downshifting.
__________________
1997 ZJ 5.2 Orvis, Baby!
1953 Willys M100 trailer Tagalong
________________
[_][][][][][][][][_]


Mickey_D is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 12-07-2011, 06:23 AM   #4
Rattyflatty
Registered User
1948 CJ2A 
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: central MN, Minnesota
Posts: 380
Quote:
Originally Posted by mryabuddy1 View Post
What make/model of disk brakes will bolt up to my 1959 cj5?

Early Jeep Disk Brake Conversion - Timeless Tech Drum to Disc
Disc-Brake Conversion for early Jeeps
From the April, 2007 issue of Jp
By Verne Simons
Photography by Verne Simons


|
|
Early Jeep Disk Brake Conversion Drum Brakes

Editor's Note:
Some modifications never become outdated, especially those that are simple bolt-on improvements that can be done with junkyard parts. We still get questions about swaps and conversions we did it over five years ago. This is one of them. And it's the first installment of our new Timeless Tech series.

Early Jeeps with closed-knuckle Dana 25, 27, and 44 front axles are not known for speedy deceleration. In fact, stopping in a hurry with the 9-inch drums can cause a religious experience-or at least the utterance of a few sacred words used in vain. So what is to be done? You could find a narrow-track Dana 30 complete with disc brakes from a later CJ, but that can become quite expensive if the axle needs to be refurbished before installation. So why not put some discs on your early axles using common easy-to-get parts? Here's how it works.

What you need:
* Calipers from a '71-'78 Chevy 1/2-ton or light-duty 3/4-ton 4x4 with a Dana 44* Caliper mounting brackets from a '73-'91 1/2-ton Chevy 4x4* Rotors from a '77-'78 CJ. These rotors are 1 1/8-inch thick* Ten longer wheel studs (we used Dorman PN 610106)* Chevy 1/2-ton brake lines (Pro Comp PN 7220)* A grinder* Standard handtools* Brake fluid, new hard brake line, banjo bolts, and a bleeder kit
Early Jeep Disk Brake Conversion Disk Brake Parts

1)First, you need to collect the rotors, caliper mounting brackets, and calipers. You can either hit a junkyard to get all this stuff, or you can save yourself the headache and get all-new stuff at the parts store.
Early Jeep Disk Brake Conversion Drum Brakes Stripped Down

2)Start out by stripping off all of your old drum brake stuff. That's right-down to the spindle. Now that you have the hub and drum off, you should find someone who can press the old wheel studs out or you can bang them out with a hammer.

3)Next, place the rotor behind the hub and have the wheel studs pressed through the rotor and into the hub. If you don't put the rotor behind the hub, your brakes won't line up with the calipers.
Early Jeep Disk Brake Conversion Backing Plate

4)Attach the spindle and Chevy Dana 44 caliper mounting brackets with a couple bolts to test for caliper figment. You will need to replace the 12 (six per side) original fine-thread backing plate bolts with ones that are 1-inch long. You could also step up to some studs at this point.
Early Jeep Disk Brake Conversion Clearance Grind

5)In order to provide clearance for the caliper, you will need to grind a little material off of the knuckle (arrows). With the caliper mounting bracket on the spindle, you can get an idea of how much grinding will be necessary to fit the caliper. Remember that as the pads wear out, the caliper will move inward because of its floating design. If you don't grind enough, your caliper may hit the knuckle and render your brakes useless. We ground the fill plug for clearance, although you could just replace the plug with a flush-mount one. Now you can start grinding the knuckle between the two bolts that are farthest to the back of the knuckle. You don't have to remove a ton of material, but make sure you have good clearance by periodically replacing the caliper mounting bracket and caliper for test fitting.
Early Jeep Disk Brake Conversion Caliper Clearance

6)Also grind the caliper a little (arrow) to make sure that there will be no contact between it and the knuckle as the pads wear out, but be careful not to grind through the casting.

7)Once you have removed enough material, you can then begin rebuilding your front axle. Now would be a good time to replace those worn-out bearings and seals. Remember to pack the bearings and grease everything.
Early Jeep Disk Brake Conversion Disk Brake Conversion Finished

8)We decided to move the hard brake lines from the axle to the frame. We used a couple pieces of bendable brake line from our local parts store and a set of stainless steel brake lines from Explorer Pro Comp for a Chevy 1/2-ton. We used the metering block from the new Pro Comp rear brake line to split the front hard lines to both sides. Bleed the brakes, and you're on your way. Make sure to check the caliper clearance as the pads wear.

Stopping is as easy as "holy son of a ?*&@#!"

Prior to converting our Willys to disc brakes, we were fairly sure the huge number of descriptive expletives that we so often used when trying to bring the old Jeep to a stop would result in an eternity in hell spent working on electric-powered RAV4s and Honda CRVs. Now that the Willys has disc brakes, it stops so rapidly that the rear tires in the air cause more expletives to be uttered, and despite our hopes of redemption, all hope is lost. Hell, here we come.

Read more: http://www.jpmagazine.com/techarticl...#ixzz1fr3toQEx
__________________
Tonight we drink for tomorrow we shoot bang bang
Rattyflatty is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 12-07-2011, 07:45 AM   #5
Mickey_D
Registered User
1997 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: 40 3'42.36"N 112 2'16.73"W, Utah
Posts: 6,708
^ There it is!!
__________________
1997 ZJ 5.2 Orvis, Baby!
1953 Willys M100 trailer Tagalong
________________
[_][][][][][][][][_]


Mickey_D is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 12-07-2011, 07:46 AM   #6
CSP
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Colorado
Posts: 11,843
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mickey_D View Post
You need the calipers, caliper mounting plates and brake hoses from a 73-78 Chevy 1/2 ton 4WD with the D44 front axle.
You can actually go beyond '78 for the caliper mounting stands. A Chevy 10bolt uses the same stands. Any '74-78 fullsize Jeep Dana 44 will use the same calipers and caliper mounting brackets as the Chevy parts, broadening the search base for parts.

I did this swap on my '75 when it still had the Dana 30. It's a big upgrade to the factory drums, even if they are in good working condition.

One thing that I ran into that the article doesn't mention is a problem with the factory wheelbearing hubs. The backsides of mine weren't machined flat to accept the rotors. I had to machine them on a lathe so that the rotors would sit flat and true.
CSP is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 12-07-2011, 12:50 PM   #7
Mickey_D
Registered User
1997 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: 40 3'42.36"N 112 2'16.73"W, Utah
Posts: 6,708
I was only going by the article and what they listed there. In all reality the calipers can come from a 71-78 and the mounting brackets from 73-91. But for ease of explaining I took the mean between them.

But then again, more information is better.
__________________
1997 ZJ 5.2 Orvis, Baby!
1953 Willys M100 trailer Tagalong
________________
[_][][][][][][][][_]


Mickey_D is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 12-07-2011, 09:04 PM   #8
Jsederlin
Registered User
1997 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Grand Junction, Colorado
Posts: 29
Oh Mickey D .... im not dumb... ya... i drive a yj... so does that mean i have only driven a yj? no.... ive drove somethin older than a cj 5 several times(an all original cj2a) .... sooo... i know what brakes on one of those feels like.... they suck! hahaha but thats all the fun in driven one of those jeeps

Last edited by Jsederlin; 12-07-2011 at 10:00 PM..
Jsederlin is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 12-09-2011, 06:33 AM   #9
mryabuddy1
Registered User
1959 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: grand junction, colorado
Posts: 3
Thank you for all of info guys!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:d
mryabuddy1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply
Thread Tools


Suggested Threads





Jeep, Wrangler, Cherokee, Grand Cherokee, and other models are copyrighted and trademarked to Jeep/Chrysler Corporation. JeepForum.com is not in any way associated with Jeep or the Chrysler Corp.