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The Dirty Goat (an 85 under the knife)

18K views 148 replies 19 participants last post by  Agent_Orange 
#1 ·
so it's a done deal :rtft: and I'm going to pick up the 85 CJ-7 tomorrow morning. I've been living in a bowtie K5 world for the last 15 years and I thought it was time to switch up the projects. A lot of buddies of mine own TJ's or YJ's, heck I even rocked a 90 XJ for a few winters and I've always liked them but wanted a carbed 4x4 with leaf springs and the legendary I6. found this CJ. Pics to follow ASAP but until then, a link to a K5 build I did a few years ago and one a few years before that and one more I did a even before that!

http://www.arizonak5.com/forum/index.php?topic=7744.0

let me know your thoughts and i'll keep researching the site to get as much info on my new CJ before I ask a question that's been asked and answered before 1000 times.
 
#59 ·
Those were original plastic pieces that I had cleaned up. however in the past I've use shower tub foot pads. the little suction cups went on the carrier and the top of the pad hit the bottom of the tank. worked like a charm and matched my shells and sea horse paint scheme :rofl:
 
#60 ·
drivers door stripped painted and reassembled. gonna get the passenger side next. getting all the small stuff done over the winter so come spring I can just piece it all back together. never got to the passenger side tub repair over the summer so it's been held off till next spring. until then... i'll keep the pics of the minor stuff coming.
 

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#65 ·
Grill's done. bezels cleaned and polished. also spray painted the interior of the turn signals with a silver paint to restore some reflectivity. I didn't take pics like I had with the door, but same process.
 

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#70 ·
so I'm doing the blazer blower motor upgrade. (except that mounting bolt in the middle of the fire wall was a bit tight) I did a lot of research and it's as easy as ppl say it is to remove the heater box and clean/seal her up. However what I'm unclear on is the part number or year for the blazer blower motor. I've read '73 vs '83. PM102 vs PM105. 655-1076 vs. 655-1055.

Attached are the original motor dimensions and shaft length. can I get a year or part number please. I have a Napa and Advance Auto parts in town but neither carry any of the motors and before I order one I would like to be certain. Let me what you got.

Thanks
 

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#71 ·
Per some dimensions I found online it looks like the VDO PM102, which is what would fit in a 70's area K5, is the motor I'm after. available at "Vatozone" which for me is about an hour away. I'll keep you posted.
 
#72 ·
SO for MY application the PM102 Blower Motor was the one. fit like a glove. 3 of the 5 holes lined up and some self tapping screws finished her off. the Hot box got a nice coat of grey and the battery tray got cleaned up and painted as well. as you can see in the first pic I was able to reuse the foam seal because I carefully removed it from the old blower motor with a razor and just gently stretched it over the larger diameter motor.
 

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#74 ·
I've been a picture taking fool lately and getting a some work done on the rig as well. but a few of you boys have PM me asking for a few details, so...

I'll get some close ups of the winch Make/Model with the mounting plate configuration done by the PO.

I'll be starting passenger side tub sheet metal repairs soon and will detail how I section up the tub into 3 portions and tackling them individually, focusing on a "how-to" on rear quarter panel fabrication.

And lastly I show how to get a full Coors Light to become and empty Coors Light. :cheers2:
 
#78 ·
I drilled out the spot welds where the tub siding meets the wheel wells. then cut the siding where I wanted. the new pieces where butt welded side by side so everything would stay nice and flat. then I welded the new siding back to the wheel wells. so to answer your question, it's all butt welds no overlap.
 
#79 ·
This is my all new all time consuming drug. not done with one project and I'm already making plans for Nutter Bypass/under hood clean up and Roll Bar into Roll Cage.
 
#80 ·
A nice 26* out. Lets DO WORK!

Figuring what to cut out. My assistant and I figured most of the rust was here so we drew some lines. you areas may differ, but I wanted to keep the stamped Jeep sheet metal so a little more geometry was required.
 

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#82 ·
So the lines are drawn and it's time to cut with a 4" cut off wheel. careful not to cut through and supports behind the siding. I like to either drill out spot welds of in a pinch you can chisel spot welds.
 

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#83 ·
time for some measurements...

1.5" to wrap around the fire wall where fender mounts.
3.5" siding to Jeep emblem
50" (1" extra you'll see why later) from jeep emblem to rear wheel well REMEMBER THAT 1"
TOTAL 55" Latitude

9.5" from fire wall to bottom of Rocker Panel where the fender will meet.
3" down the side of Jeep emblem (not shown in pics)
6" (1/2" extra again you see why later) from cut to bottom of rocker REMEMBER THAT 1/2"
Total 9.5" transfer to 6" TOTAL

Lets go transfer some measurements...
 

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#84 ·
4'x8' 16 ga sheet metal cost $75 around here. the supplier cut it into2, 2'x8' for me by request.

I always put the extra at the bottom and end, the portions of the sheet metal that will not be butt welded

(for what ever reason I can only upload around 5 pics at a time, so sorry for multiple posts)
 

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