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Unread 04-23-2009, 08:37 AM   #1
rydog7
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1981 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Cary, NC
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Difference in Brake and Clutch pedal height

I just bought an 81 CJ7 and the clutch pedal height at rest is 2 to 3 inches lower than the brake pedal height. Anybody help me with a why and what to do about it?
Both clutch and brakes are functional
Thanks:

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Unread 04-23-2009, 08:39 AM   #2
Mike Romain
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The clutch pedal has an adjustment rod down near the tranny. It should be adjusted until the pedal only has about 1" of free play at the top.
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89 YJ Renegade. BBD Carbed 4.0 HO. Locked front and rear with 33x9.5 BFG AT's
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Unread 04-23-2009, 08:44 AM   #3
rydog7
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Difference in Brake and Clutch pedal height

The clutch pedal appears to be resting against an upstop of some type and doesnt look like I can make the pedal height the same as the brake pedal height without forming (bending) the upstop which doesnt seem logical.
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Unread 04-23-2009, 08:53 AM   #4
gmakra
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Its hitting your ignition switch bracket. You can bend the sheet metal bracket and get clearance and not damage anything.
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Unread 04-23-2009, 08:57 AM   #5
Fjguercio
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1978 CJ7 
 
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I had a similar issue and could use my foot to pull the clutch pedal up and it would stay even with the brake.

Fixed the issue by replacing the clutch return spring on the clutch fork down by the bell housing. It is easy to get to and cheap. I used a Century Spring Corp, LA, Calf, spring #C-141 it is 5/8 x 2.5x.072 at a cost of $2.59 for package of two. 800-237-5225. Look to see who carries them in in your area. I ordered a "Jeep Replacement" from Oconnee Off Road / The Used Jeep but it was weaker than the rusted spring that was on my 1978 CJ7. I think they sent me the wrong set or the quality was poor. This Century spring worked perfect.

The alternative is to replace the larger clutch spring on top of the clutch pedal assemble and under the dash. It is a lot harder to get to and you would most likley need to remove the dash. I was going to replace mine and gave up on the idea.

Changing the spring on the clutch linkage by the bell housing and readjusting to 1-1.5" of free clutch play should fix you up.

Fred
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Unread 04-23-2009, 09:08 AM   #6
rydog7
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Thanks ... I'll take a closer look and I have a linkage on order... appreciate the quick feedbac
rydog
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Unread 04-23-2009, 09:15 AM   #7
Mike Romain
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fjguercio View Post

Fixed the issue by replacing the clutch return spring on the clutch fork down by the bell housing.
I have seen someone mistakenly put a 'return spring' on the throwout lever. It pulled the lever forward so the pivot ball fell out and the clutch became useless.

There is a spring down there but it just goes from the bell crank to the throw out lever to prevent the adjuster from falling out, it doesn't pull anything.
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86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG AT's, 'glass nose to tail in '00, 'New' frame,wires and plumbing in '09. Carter BBD Carbed 4.0 HO in '10.
89 YJ Renegade. BBD Carbed 4.0 HO. Locked front and rear with 33x9.5 BFG AT's
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Unread 04-23-2009, 11:37 AM   #8
Fjguercio
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Gee... not sure what you are tying to say. The clutch fork has two springs. Ones shorter stonger (thicker metal) spring internal to the bell housing and holds the fork against the pivot point/ball. The second spring is much longer weaker (thinner metal) external to the bell housing on the clutch fork and "pulls" the clutch fork to a tab on the bell housing. This pull force of the elongated spring keeps the clutch linkage in the pocket of clutch fork and provides return pressure for the fork and throwout bearing. The clutch fork/throw out bearing and clutch will work and fuction with out the clutch linkage attached.

Further, the clutch fork/throw out bearing can be activated by hand and these spring should retun the mechanism to the home /resting position. I have also found this retun to home spring external if properly done will have a force exerted on the pedal too. That force can be seen the last inch or so of the clutch pedal from my experience.

That is why I said if you put your foot under the clutch pedal and pull it up and it stays level with the brake pedal or only stays lower some of the time you are close. This should be corrected or the TO bearing might be spinning against the diaphram and could fail or wear out early from spinning . Another situation is the clutch linkage could fall out of the pocket of clutch fork, fun no clutch.

My clutch fork springs were ordered for a T18 when doing my restoration work. The new springs were weaker than the rusty OEM springs not 30yrs old and the external spring was almost worn thru on the "hook" portion attached to bell housing. I believe I was sent the wrong parts, happened several times. I went looking and found a very good cheap replacement with the proper K factory range. The external spring is exposed more to the elements and rusts faster an the internal does appear to get lubrication and protection some.

I have had this installed for 1.5 years and has worked flawless. It is installed on stock T18 wide ratio, bell housing, 258, Zoom Kevlar Clutch w/ diaphram pressure plate. Same clutch they use on Mustangs just in case a 360 V8 or similar is ever installed same clutch will work. Other Jeeps Trans/Clutch Fork springs maybe different?? I do not know.

The T18 clutch fork does have a knotch at the pivot point to clear a bolt head so it works properly. Other that that I believe the clutch forks to be the same. I actualy added the knotch to my clutch fork so it might have been changed/swaped some time in its life.

I have posted this soltion about 5 other times or so. Not to often we can find a $1.25 solution and can give the extra spring to our jeep bud.

Best regards,
Fred

Last edited by Fjguercio; 04-23-2009 at 12:03 PM..
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Unread 04-23-2009, 12:11 PM   #9
Mike Romain
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fjguercio View Post
Gee... not sure what you are tying to say. The clutch fork has two springs. Ones shorter stonger (thicker metal) spring internal to the bell housing and holds the fork against the pivot point/ball. The second spring is much longer weaker (thinner metal) external to the bell housing on the clutch fork and "pulls" the clutch fork to a tab on the bell housing.
The outer spring is supposed to go between the clutch fork and the bell crank, not the bellhousing. The spring keeps the adjuster sucked into the pocket on the clutch fork, it doesn't pull on anything else.

The gent that lost his ball bearing put the spring to the bellhousing by mistake thinking that was how to get the pedal up higher rather than using the adjuster to do this or replacing the weak or broken top spring. This pulled the clutch fork too far forward and the ball bearing pivot fell out.
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86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG AT's, 'glass nose to tail in '00, 'New' frame,wires and plumbing in '09. Carter BBD Carbed 4.0 HO in '10.
89 YJ Renegade. BBD Carbed 4.0 HO. Locked front and rear with 33x9.5 BFG AT's
Some Canadian Bush Jeep Runs and Build Photos: http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com (10 new albums added Sept 16/10)
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Unread 04-23-2009, 12:28 PM   #10
Fjguercio
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Mike,

Might be to post a picture, can you post a picture of how you have it installed? I believe it have it correct but maybe not. I just cked my FSM and there is not a picture there. I will look in my chiltons too.

My books call this external to bell housing spring.... the ThrowOut Lever Return Spring. So it does put the lever back in a home position. The clutch linkage knob has no way to pull the lever so it has to be the external spring trying to be to non elongated state.

So now the question is where does the spring mount? There are two holes closer to the bell housing than the linkage pocket on the lever. I used both holes for the spring hook to hook into these holes. Then stretched the spring to tab on bell housing with a hole/and curved knotch to hold the other end of spring hook.

I will also admit on the lever further from the bell housing and outside the linkage pocket there is a single hole. The spring could be mounted there, it would have more leverage since it is further out on the lever arm. Where would you mount the other end of spring to??? Needs to be fixed to have a return pressure.

This is how mine was installed and I rebuilt my clutch linkages and changed the external clutch fork return spring.


It looks like the 6 & 8 cylinder clutch linkages are one way in the 70's and the 4 bangers are another way. It is also possible some years of clutch linkages are different. This is per my two manuals.

Mike show me what you did?? I think I have it right, but could be wrong

Regards,

Fred

Thanks,
fred

Last edited by Fjguercio; 04-24-2009 at 09:45 AM..
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Unread 10-16-2009, 12:51 AM   #11
RARECJ8
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post revival....


my clutch pedal pivot pin bushings failed , the spring clip and retaining washer fell off and the clutch pedal is working its way left and off the pin. I need to remove the HUGE retuen spring. My buddy's later model CJ has a totally smaller and lighter spring. This '81 OEM spring is mnassive and under so much load all the prying cannot get it off. Am resigned to pulling the dash. It's REALLY tight up there and not a lot of room-- plus a ton of wires going every where.

One idea is to remove the factory clock. Popped it out tonight and the massive spring is just behind the opening, so i might be on to something...

any other ideas?
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Unread 10-16-2009, 07:38 AM   #12
John Strenk
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The factory service manual shows drilling a hole in the firewall and using mechanics wire and a 2X4 to remove or install the spring.

Maybe you found a new way.
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Unread 10-19-2009, 11:55 AM   #13
RARECJ8
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got it out. had to drill a 1/2" hole in top of firewall just in front of the spring. used some stainless steel wire looped over the fwd end of the spring. Secured a large pipe to front bumper and used a come-along to gently expand the spring so that i can slip off the pivot pin. woo hoo. will post pix later, but this seems the easiest way. Also had to drop the fuse box so that the pedal could slide all the way to the left and off the pin. yikes, its always something...
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