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Unread 06-26-2010, 11:03 AM   #1
81cjproject
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differance between a spun axle or sheared key on AMC 20?

Ok well wheeling with the 33 inch tires on stock two piece axles heard a loud
bang but was still able to get out of the mud hole and get home on the one rear that was still driving and 4 high. However how do I figure out if I need to replace whole rear left side ( if I do I am going one piece) or if I just sheared the key as another has suggested? the reason is if I go to one piece I have to replace entire carrier group because previous owner looks to have welded it all together. for strength? the 3 screws to get the drum off are rusted in bad.

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Unread 06-26-2010, 11:22 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 81cjproject View Post
Ok well wheeling with the 33 inch tires on stock two piece axles heard a loud
bang but was still able to get out of the mud hole and get home on the one rear that was still driving and 4 high. However how do I figure out if I need to replace whole rear left side ( if I do I am going one piece) or if I just sheared the key as another has suggested? the reason is if I go to one piece I have to replace entire carrier group because previous owner looks to have welded it all together. for strength? the 3 screws to get the drum off are rusted in bad.
When my axle spun on my 85 CJ7 I couldn't do ANYthing in 2WD. The PO had used a die grinder to expand the keyway in the hub, then he welded a bead on the spindle to match. That was the first of my plagues! You sure you have one rear wheel pulling?? Your PO welded the axle to the carrier??
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Unread 06-26-2010, 12:52 PM   #3
81cjproject
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well not the carrier but he welded the shafts together in the middle all the teeth and what not. it has 1 back right wheel pulling still I can turn the driveshaft by spinning right drum but if I spin left drum it just chirps / squeaks and does not spin the drive shaft I can go start it and drive around in 2 wheel rt now just fine though. for a quick fix I just cranked down on the nut on the end of the spindle and it got tight enough to allow the tire to turn the drive shaft as soon as I got it off the lift though driving away the fist gas I gave it it went right back.
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Unread 06-26-2010, 02:16 PM   #4
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I don't plan on keeping this jeep alive I am looking for a cheap fix. I am in hawaii I deploy to afghanistan again soon and I am just going to beat the crap out of it and either part it or sell it if able maybe donate it to the blind if they want it. 81 cj7 that just has too many issues. and I don't have enough time.
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Unread 06-26-2010, 02:21 PM   #5
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If I'm reading your post right it sounds like the po welded the spider gears up. If that's so then you're sheared the key. The axle still turns under power but the flange and the wheel won't. I don't have a lot of experiance with cj7s(I'm looking for one now) but I've heard guys welding the flange and nut to the axle as a temperary fix to get home on.
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Unread 06-26-2010, 05:15 PM   #6
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thats what I think happened too however I can't find any info on replacing the key or removing the sheared one.
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Unread 06-26-2010, 06:01 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by slayer2000 View Post
but I've heard guys welding the flange and nut to the axle as a temperary fix to get home on.
yup, put it should only be a temp fix...here's my write up on it with pictures

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/qu...un-hub-999835/
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Unread 06-26-2010, 06:05 PM   #8
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A sheared key should still result in a solid keyway (may be mildly distorted,) while a "spun axle" usually results from a destroyed keyway.

Typically, the key is a shade softer than what it's retaining, so the carry of spare keys wouldn't go amiss (7/10 you'll fix it with a new key - at least enough to get home and inspect the keyway more thoroughly.)

Remove by removing the flange, then tapping lightly with a small mallet and punch. The shaft side of the key should have a rounded base, and you can tip it by tapping down on one end. The flange side will tap straight out of the keyway. If the shaft uses a straight key, you may want to grind a punch tip into a narrow wedge to drive under one end of the key in the shaft and lift it out (but a Woodruff key is usually shaped like a capital letter D.)
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Unread 06-26-2010, 11:36 PM   #9
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Sounds like you're ready for a set of one-piece axles, expecially since you're running 33's.
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Unread 06-28-2010, 10:51 AM   #10
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Sounds like you're ready for a set of one-piece axles, expecially since you're running 33's.

Yes.
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Unread 06-29-2010, 02:04 AM   #11
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so I got drums off looking at hub how do I remove it to see the key / keyway? I think I just take the four bolts on the backside of it off but I need some help. I think it is just the key that is sheared though the axle shaft looks to be in good shape but the hub spins around it freely without turning the axleshaft. help any one?
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Unread 06-29-2010, 04:24 AM   #12
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sorry, but my Jeep-Fo is weak...

i will add a hearty THANKS for your service and BE SAFE!

retired e8
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Unread 07-03-2010, 04:10 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 81cjproject View Post
so I got drums off looking at hub how do I remove it to see the key / keyway? I think I just take the four bolts on the backside of it off but I need some help. I think it is just the key that is sheared though the axle shaft looks to be in good shape but the hub spins around it freely without turning the axleshaft. help any one?
Remove the big nut on the end of the axle shaft and pull the hub off. If the hub spun and you've driven on it a bit you shouldn't need a puller. For what it's worth, I wouldn't bother even trying to replace the key. Usually once a hub is spun.......thats it. The key way doesn't really hold the hub in place anyway but rather just aligns the hub and shaft so their splines align correctly. It's the splines, taper and torque oof the large nut that keep everything mated together.
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Unread 07-04-2010, 03:37 AM   #14
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Remove the big nut on the end of the axle shaft and pull the hub off. If the hub spun and you've driven on it a bit you shouldn't need a puller. For what it's worth, I wouldn't bother even trying to replace the key. Usually once a hub is spun.......thats it. The key way doesn't really hold the hub in place anyway but rather just aligns the hub and shaft so their splines align correctly. It's the splines, taper and torque oof the large nut that keep everything mated together.
Exactly!!
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