I think I sway back and forth depending on the application. I generally replace most bolts with a Grade 8 replacement bolt in most applications that require strength or need to hold up under pressure/stress. Just a personal preference or a bad habit......depending on how you look at it. I use some stainless and some torx.
on those that I can not get to the nut with heat, each old jeep should come with it's own acetylene torch kit.
time and patience is a plus,
I have had some success with the following:
I heat the head of the torx bolt up to cherry red, then let it cool, do this 2/3 times. each time the heat travels down the bolt and expand inside the nut. normally this will break the bond between bolt and nut.
then as said before use the right size bit, I use my hand held im-pack wrench on the bolt head.
with each blow it upsets or shocks the bolt as it try's to turn the bolt at the same time.
if I can ever get the bolt to move, that means the rust bond is broken
then I try to get it out, if not then I coat it with a mixture of (acetone and automatic trans fluid, one of the best penetrating fluids out there). however very flammable!!!!!!!!!!!
if all this does not work then you have no option, but to drill it out, at least having the torx hole is a good place to start as it will hold you drill bit centered.
How do you manage to heat the head of the torx without damaging the part or the paint on the piece you are trying to take off? I guess if you're planning on painting it this might work!
I must say I like the look of the torx until a countersunk one is stripped and there is no way of getting behind it. I never thought of it as a theft deterrent but I guess if I can't get it out nor can someone else. At least not easily.
I was told by someone that the reason they used torx screws back then was because that was the only type on fastener that could be held by a robot. I have my doubts.
Yeah I would definately not use allen bolts as a replacement. I have as much trouble with them with the exception that I can usually get a vise-grip on the outside if its stripped
BTW, why are the t-bolts that fasten the rocker trim so expensive? $69 for 8 - 10 of them..... ouch!
Also agree, no impact tools on torx.
Glad I am not the only one with all these removal of bolt issues
I always replace them because the damn torx bits twist and are garbage. It's like using a phillips head for a big bolt. I intend to keep my jeep until I die so I Know it is very possible to need to get them off again down the road and the older it gets the harder they get to remove.
How do you manage to heat the head of the torx without damaging the part or the paint on the piece you are trying to take off? I guess if you're planning on painting it this might work!......
.......Also agree, no impact tools on torx.
I use MAP gas which is hotter than propane and don't have paint issues. You only apply for a few seconds and stop. Wait a few and the heat penetrates. Repeat a few times. The factory paint can take a lot of heat before it burns. But small amounts at a time. WHY? Because there is a factory thread locker on these torx bolts and after 20 plus years its rock hard. The heat will soften it and the bolt will feel like butter coming out.
I disagree about not using impact guns on them. For me its the opposite, I prefer it. If your damaging bolts and bolt heads when you use an impact socket...your doing something wrong. The inside of the torx bolt must be free of debris. I often use a hammer to strike the socket and fully seat it in the bolt head. Unlike regular hand tools, the impact gun allows me to stay straight in line with the bolt, push straight in to keep the socket seated in, and spin it out faster and use the narrow window of time the heat allows for it to come out easy.
I hate dragging up an old thread, but where do you guys get the replacement torx fasteners from? I found the windshield frame fasteners in Essentials but I'm looking for the ones that hold the dash panel on.
Like John, I replaced all of my dreaded Torx-head bolts with grade-8 stainless steel hex-bolts from ARP.
I didn't know that grade 8 and stainless were mutually inclusive. Good to know. According to ARP, their grade of SS is actually 20% stronger than grade 8. Common SS bolts are not much better than grade 2.