Did I say I hate Torx bolts. Want to replace them all - JeepForum.com
Search  
Sign Up   Today's Posts
User: Pass: Remember?
Advertise Here
Jeep Home Jeep Forum Jeep Classifieds Jeep Registry JeepSpace Jeep Reviews Jeep Gallery Jeep Clubs Jeep Groups Jeep Videos Jeep Events Jeep Articles
Go Back JeepForum.com > Models > Jeep CJ Forum > Did I say I hate Torx bolts. Want to replace them all

Introducing MONSTALINER™ UV Permanent DIY Roll On Bed LineToxic Brakes - 3000 PSI Braided Stainless Steel Brake LineCess Recovery Gear Snatch Tow Strap OffRoad @ ROCKRIDGE4WD

Reply
Unread 04-26-2013, 08:36 AM   #1
cobrao4
Registered User
1986 CJ7 
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Fort Myers, Florida
Posts: 55
Did I say I hate Torx bolts. Want to replace them all

I can't tell you how many bolts I had to weld a nut to in order to get them off. I think all but one of the roll cage bolts stripped out. Anyway what is the general concensus among you guys.... Replace them with the original torx bolts or buy a good quality grade-8 hex bolt where possible.

Is there a thread that shows an all inclusive list on bolt sizes?

cobrao4 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 04-26-2013, 08:40 AM   #2
CrawlingForward
Rookies Happen.
 
CrawlingForward's Avatar
1995 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Brazoria, Texas
Posts: 2,298
I'm not a CJ, but whenever I pull out a Torx on the YJ, a non-torx grade-8 hex goes back in, unless the Torx came out *really* easily.

It's just not worth the aggravation if you ever need to go back it. One sneeze or slip or bad angle while wrenching on a torx and it's half stripped out.
__________________
My Other Jeep Is A Jeep - Crawlingforward's Jeep-Related Adventures

95 YJ, Rio Grande - The Wannabe Sleeper Wheeler
2010 JKU, Islander Edition - The Burly Stock Overlander

- North Shore Jeep Club -
Build/Wheel/Break/Educate/Upgrade/Repeat
CrawlingForward is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 04-26-2013, 09:45 AM   #3
only in a jeep cj
Registered User
1986 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Mobile, Alabama
Posts: 4,062
I use heat (MAP gas) on the bottom or nut side and zip them right out with an impact gun. Of the thousands Ive removed over the last 22 years, Ive only had to drill the head off about 10 of them. I for one like them and generally don't have a problem with them.
3 most common mistakes I see with them
1. Not cleaning the dirt out of the center and the bit is only partly inserted...yes this can strip it.
2. using the wrong size...the dash bolts are a T27...not a T25 that most try to use.
3.not using heat or trying to just break free the torx...example...the windshield/upper door hinges at the tub cowl needs to have the torx held while the nut inside is the one spun or broke free with a wrench.
__________________
Ed

1975 CJ-6 304 T15 Dana20 30/44 3.73
1983 CJ-8 258 T5 300 30/44 3.31 Looking for full or half hardtop buy or trade
1986 CJ-7 Laredo 4.6 stroker T5 300 30/44 3.31
1986 TJ-7 Trail Jeep project in the works
2003 Inca Gold TJ Rubicon
only in a jeep cj is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 04-26-2013, 10:19 AM   #4
Renegade82
Web Wheeler
 
Renegade82's Avatar
1982 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Lewistown, PA
Posts: 3,187
I usually replace them in most cases. I've noticed lately that places are calling them "star" bolts or sockets instead of Torx. Is it just the ignorance of a new generation or is it a copyright thing?
__________________
The end of a defining era.... JEEP R.I.P. 1941-1986
My frame off Re-Build: (still in progress....)
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/30...e-off-1280850/
Renegade82 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 04-26-2013, 10:33 AM   #5
titomars
Registered User
1981 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Santa Rosa, California
Posts: 1,797
I personally have not had any real trouble from Torx head fasteners specifically. Well no more trouble than say Allen head fasteners. Like Allen head fasteners they hate impact tools. It just beats them up. I actually like them. Means my pieces and parts stand a better chance of staying on the CJ and not growing legs during the night (theft). I also like the look of them. but the key to success with them is to make sure the socket of the fastener is clean and having the tool squarely engaged into the fastener.
__________________
I don't worry about my MPG's. I see it as the price of admission...............Damn what a ride!!!
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
**Originally Posted by wm69 **
This is the kinda whiny crap I would expect to see in the JK forum. We drive rough riding, leaking, gas guzzling CJ's. Rattle can it and throw it in your Jeep.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
1981 Jeep CJ7 258 4.0 HO head, T-5, D300, D30, D44, SOA
1994 Jeep XJ 4.0 HO, AX-15 (My Beater)
1946 Bantam T3-C (original Calif trailer, no rust)
titomars is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 04-26-2013, 11:30 AM   #6
wellmax
Registered User
1984 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Hazel, KY
Posts: 1,068
on those that I can not get to the nut with heat, each old jeep should come with it's own acetylene torch kit.

time and patience is a plus,

I have had some success with the following:

I heat the head of the torx bolt up to cherry red, then let it cool, do this 2/3 times. each time the heat travels down the bolt and expand inside the nut. normally this will break the bond between bolt and nut.

then as said before use the right size bit, I use my hand held im-pack wrench on the bolt head.

with each blow it upsets or shocks the bolt as it try's to turn the bolt at the same time.
if I can ever get the bolt to move, that means the rust bond is broken
then I try to get it out, if not then I coat it with a mixture of (acetone and automatic trans fluid, one of the best penetrating fluids out there). however very flammable!!!!!!!!!!!

if all this does not work then you have no option, but to drill it out, at least having the torx hole is a good place to start as it will hold you drill bit centered.
wellmax is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 04-26-2013, 03:16 PM   #7
Jim1611
Web Wheeler
 
Jim1611's Avatar
1985 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 5,436
Any fastener that has an angle under the head like torx of flat head cap screws should have anit-sieze on the threads and under the head. Keep that in mind when you put the new ones back and if you need to take the out again you'll have a much easier time of doing it. For that matter you need to use anit-sieze on anything with threads on the outiside of the rig unless it's the brakes or spindles.
Jim1611 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 04-26-2013, 03:26 PM   #8
cj7ole
Registered User
1984 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Highland, Michigan
Posts: 390
I replaced most of mine with socket head (Allen) stainless steel, if it looked like a high stress bolt, I went up one size. I like the looks of socket head vs hex. Stay away from button head, they look trick but the small socket strips way too easy. Have to remove a bolt 15 years from now? No problem. We did a full tear down/repaint 15 years after replacing the fasteners, and everything came apart easily. There is a place for grade 5 and 8: roll bars, seat belts, bumpers, tow hooks, winches, spring hangers, but windhield hinges (these are real problems) and other body mounts work fine with stainless.

__________________
'84 CJ7, '07 5.3 LMG Chevy, D300, 4L60e, 33's, 4.10, rear Detroit Locker, FG Tub, HOK Tangelo Pearl
Build: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/ole-jays-cj7-5-3-chevy-swap-1287392/
cj7ole is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 04-26-2013, 05:22 PM   #9
82JeepCJ7
Registered User
1982 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Marysville, WA
Posts: 4,780
I took most of them out, put them in a can, then took them to the lake with my sling shot. Fun seeing how far you can get them.

Almost everything gets stainless now.



__________________
Beat it to fit, paint it to match!

Wheel, Wrench, Repeat.
82JeepCJ7 is online now   Reply With Quote
Unread 04-26-2013, 05:29 PM   #10
keith460
Jeep. There's Only One
 
keith460's Avatar
1984 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Doylestown, PA
Posts: 4,726
Personally, I like the Torx bolts as they seem to be an anti-theft fastener for the most part and have installed several factory items under the dash like cigarette lighter, radio bracket with tamper-proof Torx bolts that are available. I have retained the factory Torx bolts for the roll bar, dash and anywhere else that AMC/Jeep used them because they are unique to the CJ. I even went as far as sandblasting them and then sent them out to be Nickel plated, but I always use a copper based anti-seize compound before installing them or any other piece of hardware on the Jeep. They always come out no matter what exposure they have had over time.

Anti-seize compound is the "key" to removing fasteners in the future and has served me well for the last 25 years or so.
__________________
.
1984 CJ-7 Renegade
__________________

Restoration Thread:http://www.jeepsunlimited.com/forums...d.php?t=434226
keith460 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 04-26-2013, 06:11 PM   #11
RoostrRiz
Registered User
1983 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Southern New Jersey
Posts: 103
I'm right there with you. Started swapping my roll bar today. So far four of the Torx came out all the rest have striped or are on the way there it seems. Already got some out by the weld a nut to it method but ill probably replace them with something else.
RoostrRiz is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 04-26-2013, 07:54 PM   #12
jumbojeepman
Registered User
1976 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Greenville, NC
Posts: 1,099
Quote:
Originally Posted by cj7ole View Post
I replaced most of mine with socket head (Allen) stainless steel,
What are you a glutton for misery? The only bolt that strips out more than a Torx is an Allen head. I'd like to take Mr. Allen behind a woodshed and give him a whooping for all the misery he's caused me over the years.
jumbojeepman is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 04-26-2013, 10:33 PM   #13
cj7ole
Registered User
1984 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Highland, Michigan
Posts: 390
Quote:
Originally Posted by jumbojeepman View Post
What are you a glutton for misery? The only bolt that strips out more than a Torx is an Allen head. I'd like to take Mr. Allen behind a woodshed and give him a whooping for all the misery he's caused me over the years.
The ones that cause me pain are the old-fashioned slotted screw heads. Strip 'em almost every time. The button heads and countersunk's that 82jeepcj7 used are a problem because the wrench is too small for the thread size and the hole is too shallow, that is why I use the capscrew style like you see in the hood hinge bolts in my pic. 5/16" threaded capscrews use a hefty 1/4" Allen wrench. You will break the bolt before you strip out the hole as long as you insert the wrench all the way to the bottom. I agree that regular hex heads will allow you to put the most torque on the bolt. Non-stainless alloy steel Allen (socket) head capscrews are usually about 25-40% stronger than grade 8. Allowable tightening torque for a flat head or button head is about half that of a full socket head, that is why they strip so easily.
__________________
'84 CJ7, '07 5.3 LMG Chevy, D300, 4L60e, 33's, 4.10, rear Detroit Locker, FG Tub, HOK Tangelo Pearl
Build: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/ole-jays-cj7-5-3-chevy-swap-1287392/
cj7ole is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 04-26-2013, 11:06 PM   #14
82JeepCJ7
Registered User
1982 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Marysville, WA
Posts: 4,780
The counter sunk bolts I used were on the windshield frame, so they only come out about once every 20 years. They were put in with Anti-seize, as were all of my bolts. The socket in these are pretty deep, about twice the depth as some I have seen.
__________________
Beat it to fit, paint it to match!

Wheel, Wrench, Repeat.
82JeepCJ7 is online now   Reply With Quote
Unread 04-27-2013, 02:15 AM   #15
John Strenk
Moderator
 
John Strenk's Avatar
1976 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Shalersville Ohio
Posts: 12,968
I replace all of my bolts with Stainless also. Years of salt haven't touched them you.
I actually like the torx design. you can put a lot more force on it than an allen.



Funny thing about those in our CJ was I read that there was thread locker on the screws and you need to heat the bolt up to remove them. which is kinda like what welding a nut on it does.
John Strenk is offline   Reply With Quote




Jeep, Wrangler, Cherokee, Grand Cherokee, and other models are copyrighted and trademarked to Jeep/Chrysler Corporation. JeepForum.com is not in any way associated with Jeep or the Chrysler Corp.