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Unread 06-10-2013, 10:29 PM   #16
lucdog
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A picture of the front and rear shackles would be a start. Im guessing the shackles you have are 7 or 8" long, OEM was 3".

You need to search "caster angle" so you understand what causing the squirreleyness.

I'm not from Califorina. From what I've read here on JF, you've got some work to do.

Bill

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Unread 06-11-2013, 12:47 AM   #17
LumpyGrits
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1985 CJ7 
 
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t_long, you will ans your own question after you try to smog it.....
I've been play'n the PRK smog game with mine for over 28 yrs and it's a 110% PITA.
BTW, if as you say, it's not run'n to hot. You will NEVER pass the Ca. smog test! I can tell you by looking at that picture of the engine bay. You will fail.......
Good luck,
LG
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Unread 06-11-2013, 01:29 AM   #18
LeePrather
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1978 CJ5 
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WNC-84CJ7
drop those bumpers homey- those things look heavy! your shifter makes your jeep look...excited.
Lol you didn't! Haha!
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Unread 06-11-2013, 01:30 AM   #19
titomars
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You will need to turn that engine 100% back to OEM to get it registered in Calif. Carb will have to be replaced. If the ignition system was changed that will have to be replaced too. Both the header and intake has to go and stock ones installed. If the cat converter is gone that also has to be replaced. All 1978 model year emissions will have to be acquired, installed, and working. since its an out of state vehicle you will only have to meet federal standards to pass in Calif. But there is no real big difference between the two.
Word of warning do NOT take it to a smog station as it is! just opening the hood it will fail. They WILL flag it as a gross polluter. If that happens you will have a ton of headaches and hurdles to jump through like multiple referee inspections. This state has no sense of humor with smog control anymore, meaning they cut no slack. If it is not exactly like it was when it was built it will not pass.

I am a retired professional mechanic and was a smog license holder in two states.
Here is a Photo of what it will sort of look like. This is a 1981 but you should get an idea.
1981-jeep-cj7-102609-14-small.jpg  
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I don't worry about my MPG's. I see it as the price of admission...............Damn what a ride!!!
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
**Originally Posted by wm69 **
This is the kinda whiny crap I would expect to see in the JK forum. We drive rough riding, leaking, gas guzzling CJ's. Rattle can it and throw it in your Jeep.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
1981 Jeep CJ7 258 4.0 HO head, T-5, D300, D30, D44, SOA
1994 Jeep XJ 4.0 HO, AX-15 (My Beater)
1946 Bantam T3-C (original Calif trailer, no rust)
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Unread 06-11-2013, 09:08 AM   #20
row684
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Quote:
Originally Posted by titomars
You will need to turn that engine 100% back to OEM to get it registered in Calif. Carb will have to be replaced. If the ignition system was changed that will have to be replaced too. Both the header and intake has to go and stock ones installed. If the cat converter is gone that also has to be replaced. All 1978 model year emissions will have to be acquired, installed, and working. since its an out of state vehicle you will only have to meet federal standards to pass in Calif. But there is no real big difference between the two.
Word of warning do NOT take it to a smog station as it is! just opening the hood it will fail. They WILL flag it as a gross polluter. If that happens you will have a ton of headaches and hurdles to jump through like multiple referee inspections. This state has no sense of humor with smog control anymore, meaning they cut no slack. If it is not exactly like it was when it was built it will not pass.

I am a retired professional mechanic and was a smog license holder in two states.
Here is a Photo of what it will sort of look like. This is a 1981 but you should get an idea.
Eww. I'd be looking for a new home in a non communist state if I were you! I'll go $3802!

**edit** have you considered a 4.0? It might be easier and cheaper to swap in a 4.0 like these guys are doing. http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/ca...-swap-1530716/
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Unread 06-11-2013, 10:57 AM   #21
jp360cj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lucdog View Post

On the plus side, It sounds like a T18, but with reverse to the right and up, it would be a 1B not a "A". Both came with a Dana 20.
shifter to the right and up just means its a 78 or older t18
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Unread 06-11-2013, 12:44 PM   #22
SLO_Ken
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Quote:
Originally Posted by t_long View Post
Thanks guys. I've been reading about how to get it through smog now. I'm hoping that I can find a shop that doesn't know anything about CJs. Going to keep looking.
Good luck with that, especially if you are out in East County anywhere.

There is a decent junkyard out on Hwy 67 in Lakeside that only handles trucks/SUV's. You may be able to find some of the required smog equipment from them. At the very least, you should be able to get intake and exhaust manifolds there.
HWY 67 Truck Dismantlers

When I bought my CJ from Utah, it was in a similar condition with a Weber carb and all the smog equipment missing. Instead of spending time and effort tracking down original smog equipment, I ponied up for the Howell TBI kit. It replaces the carburetor and all the vacuum lines with a throttle body fuel injection setup from an early '90's GM 4.3. And it's been CARB approved, meaning that you can take it to any smog shop to get tested.
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Unread 06-21-2013, 07:58 PM   #23
t_long
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Guys,

Thanks for the feedback. I've done quite a bit of work since getting the jeep about 2 weeks ago.

At one point, I was really excited because I thought I'd found a way around CA smog: historic plates. Well, I went into the DMV yesterday, and the changed the ******* law at the end of 2012 do that historic vehicles newer than 1975 still have to be smogged. Needless to say, I'm pissed and very saddened that I can't drive my Jeep right now (especially since I just spent a good sum of money on a full set of tires.

So, I may not have gotten a screaming deal, but I'd like to commit to keeping it. As I'm sure you all understand, I'm in love. haha So I need a bit of help...

My understanding is that I need a carb, intake manifold, exhaust system and smog pump. Is there anything I'm missing? Does anyone know if someone on the forum is selling?

I guess the silver lining in this thing is that technically the seller is 100% responsible for smog compliance. So there's a glimmer of light at the end of the tunnel.
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Unread 06-21-2013, 08:21 PM   #24
t_long
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By the way, I didn't see the responses past the first page until now. Newbie move!

TITOMARS - Thanks for all the info. Thankfully I haven't taken it to a station yet. Still trying to come up with my master plan... Question- How do the smog techs know exactly what the motor was supposed to look like. Reason I ask is I'm wondering how they would know that the distributor has been changed... and the manifold / carb for that matter. Do they have a picture or something?

SLO KEN - That's a good option. Would you recommend that over doing a swap? I've read into that a bit, but it's so expensive!!! It seems like either that or a swap are my best options at this point. The jeep is something I want to keep for a long time.

ROW684 - That has been weighing heavily in my options since yesterday at the DMV. Is there a a good source for information on what my options are when swapping? Reading the link you sent now... Thanks!
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Unread 06-21-2013, 09:21 PM   #25
t_long
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lucdog View Post
A picture of the front and rear shackles would be a start. Im guessing the shackles you have are 7 or 8" long, OEM was 3".

You need to search "caster angle" so you understand what causing the squirreleyness.

I'm not from Califorina. From what I've read here on JF, you've got some work to do.

Bill
Man, you hit the nail on the head there. With the tiny bit of driving I've done, I noticed that the steering didn't feel quite right. I don't have an angleometer yer, but unless my eyes are lying, the caster angle looks significantly negative, and I don't have any correcting shims either. I took a couple pictures and measurements. Here's what I came up with: 8" shackles in the front, 6" in the back.
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Unread 06-21-2013, 09:33 PM   #26
t_long
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Had a glitch with the pictures on the last post. Looks like there's a bit of work to be done here, but I'm glad I know now.
dsc01477-2-.jpg   img_2959.jpg   img_2960.jpg   img_2961.jpg  
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Unread 06-21-2013, 10:34 PM   #27
titomars
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Quote:
Originally Posted by t_long View Post
By the way, I didn't see the responses past the first page until now. Newbie move!

TITOMARS - Thanks for all the info. Thankfully I haven't taken it to a station yet. Still trying to come up with my master plan... Question- How do the smog techs know exactly what the motor was supposed to look like. Reason I ask is I'm wondering how they would know that the distributor has been changed... and the manifold / carb for that matter. Do they have a picture or something?
They have a battery of books and manuals to reference. I still have some of mine. The big key for them is if it looks different or out of the ordinary, check the manuals. you might get away with a DUI if it looks like its been on the vehicle for a few years. But having a Weber or a Holley would be an instant red flag since they were not used by AMC in that era. Example: the only American vehicles to use a Weber were the Vega and the Pinto. Last time I looked a CJ has no resemblance to either of them. LOL After '74 No American car came factory with a conventional Holley.
Same goes for manifolds and headers or a non-OEM airfilter.
Without looking up your model year for a the detailed list here is what I can tell you off the top of my head, There may be more.
Cat converter
EGR valve and controls
AIR injection and controls
TAC and plumbing (stock air cleaner with the flapper, sensors, and flex tubing
TCS (if an automatic)
EVAP system
pressure/vac fuel system
PCV (closed system)
CTO control for spark and EGR.
EFE system, Early Fuel Evaporation or as its more commonly know as heat riser valve

Oh by the way the seller responsibility only goes as far as "in california". You buying it out of state and bringing in state the moment you crossed the state line with it, it legally became your problem alone. You can try to get the seller to help but I think he will tell you to go pound sand.
My best recommendation would be to find a complete core 258 from the 77 to 81 years and strip it for all the smog equipment. I see them all the time in C/L. Guys trying to unload them after they have repowered to newer engine types. You have to meet the 78 model year spec at minimum but you could use all the 79, 80 or 81 smog and just say it has a 79, 80 or 81 engine in it. Inspectors do not run the engine codes on the blocks. If you say used 81 smog parts and its complete they will look up an 81 and see its all there and if it meets 81 emissions output then you're good to go.
__________________
I don't worry about my MPG's. I see it as the price of admission...............Damn what a ride!!!
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
**Originally Posted by wm69 **
This is the kinda whiny crap I would expect to see in the JK forum. We drive rough riding, leaking, gas guzzling CJ's. Rattle can it and throw it in your Jeep.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
1981 Jeep CJ7 258 4.0 HO head, T-5, D300, D30, D44, SOA
1994 Jeep XJ 4.0 HO, AX-15 (My Beater)
1946 Bantam T3-C (original Calif trailer, no rust)
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Unread 06-22-2013, 07:40 AM   #28
walkerhoundvm
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Looks like we may have another Howell customer...
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Unread 06-22-2013, 08:20 AM   #29
titomars
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Quote:
Originally Posted by walkerhoundvm View Post
Looks like we may have another Howell customer...
Yeah, Personally if it was me, I would just buy a 91 to 95 Cherokee and move the entire 4.0 HO into the CJ and be done with it. But that might be beyond his mechanical ability.
__________________
I don't worry about my MPG's. I see it as the price of admission...............Damn what a ride!!!
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
**Originally Posted by wm69 **
This is the kinda whiny crap I would expect to see in the JK forum. We drive rough riding, leaking, gas guzzling CJ's. Rattle can it and throw it in your Jeep.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
1981 Jeep CJ7 258 4.0 HO head, T-5, D300, D30, D44, SOA
1994 Jeep XJ 4.0 HO, AX-15 (My Beater)
1946 Bantam T3-C (original Calif trailer, no rust)
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Unread 06-22-2013, 09:45 AM   #30
SLO_Ken
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Quote:
Originally Posted by t_long View Post
SLO KEN - That's a good option. Would you recommend that over doing a swap? I've read into that a bit, but it's so expensive!!! It seems like either that or a swap are my best options at this point. The jeep is something I want to keep for a long time.
Depends. If the engine you have is as fresh as you suspect (<50k mi on a rebuild), then yeah, I'd go with the Howell. You can have it bolted up and running in an afternoon. It'll save you tons of time and headaches.

If your engine is tired and will need to be rebuilt soon, I'd go with a swap to a newer 4.0 engine. This is a longer process (I'm 2 months in to mine) and will require inspections by the smog referees, but the result is at least a decade's worth of tech improvements, and ~50 more horsepower. The catch is that in CA, you need to swap in an engine that is the same model year or newer than your vehicle, and all the OEM emissions equipment from the donor needs to be connected and working properly.

Either way, you're looking at a few hundred to a thousand bucks in parts.
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