Here's something i'm running into that i don't like. Torx head screws! I've busted bits and torn up screw heads trying to get my roll bar out. Short of just grinding off the heads is there another way to pull them?
I think i'm gonna go with allen head screws for the re-install.
Don't bother with Allen heads either. Just use hex heads. Theres really no benefit to a recessed head cap screw for most things, especially structural bolts like the roll bar where you want a hardened bolt.
Dan, Had the same problem with my torx bolts, i ended up grinding a 1/4" slot in the top of the bolt and welding a piece 1/4" metal about 3" long and using a pipe wrench, 9 came out and 3 had to be cut off.
Renegade I was thinking about doing those for the not so seen areas of the body such as roll bar mounts, seats, seat belts, and stuff like that. I wanted to do the recessed head cap screws just for style points on things like the dashboard, windshield mounts, hood hardware, etc. Probably stainless hardware to boot.
Nich I ended up just drilling the screw-heads down a bit and putting in an ez-out style screw remover. Worked like a charm.
So today it rained most of the morning, and I had to act like a husband and father for a bit. So I really didn't get a lot of wrenching time today, but what I did get done was quite a bit it feels like. Only because I had the best helper in the world on the job with me today! My wife decided she'd come out and run the air tools for a bit with me and she kinda got into the disassembly!
In that pic she was pulling the fender flares off while I was dinking around trying to figure out how to get the lower passenger spare tire carrier mount bolts out. I gotta tell ya, those were a trick! figured out if I pulled the gas fill covers and pushed the fill neck to the side, I could get in there with a wrench and get done what I needed to.
Also got all the rest of the diamond plate off today. Folks, if you're considering diamond plate, take a look at the picture below and lemme STRONGLY discourage you from making that mistake! If you look closely, you'll notice that there's about an 1/8" thick layer of MUD on the rear corners! It seems that someone went mudding with the jeep and the mud worked it's way in UNDER the Diamond Plate! So who knows how long it sat there....holding water that much longer. I think I got lucky and caught it pretty quickly, but already the paint has TONS of little goosebumps from where the moisture found it's way through and started creating little bubbles behind the paint.
Finally today the step brace showed up. I don't know what I was thinking it was going to be, but I'm a bit disappointed. Not a lot though, for $30 I guess I got some spare patch materials.
Hey Nich, Looking at the original floor pan and this part side by side you can see how the ONLY thing that looks even similar to the original is the height of the new piece. It's bent with hard corners, not the sloping radiuses that the original floor pan had in it. After pulling the roll bar today, I'm gonna see if I can salvage the steel that was there. The passenger side is pretty bad, but the driver's side may be salvaged yet. At least for the $30 I spent I've got a strip of steel I can use to cut smaller pieces out of it and use for patches in the other spots on the body that are gonna need some fresh skin!
I see what your talking about Dan, and that's where the worst of my rust is where the roll bar mounted. Not impressed with the looks of the step brace. I might be able to cut off the straight pieces and use them, not sure how much rust i have on the curves, mainly where the plate mounted.
I'm personally a big proponent of putting new metal in wherever I can. My thought is that brand new metal is going to take a lot longer to rust through than the 30 year old stuff thats been in the elements all these years. Hopefully my un-scientifically proven thought is right otherwise i'm replacing a LOT of extra sheet metal to no avail!
Can anyone tell me where these extra bolts go? I was working on my jeep, and ended up with a few spares!
Today was interesting. I'm a little more discouraged but not giving up yet! So today I finished the job of pulling the body off the frame. Basically I spent most of the time pulling all the little odds and ends off the body that I could find that would tie me up and be an issue if I missed them somewhere. Here's a few pics of the progress.
Most of what has me discouraged is the sheer amount of rust I was able to find once it came off. As you can tell from the pics, the frame and all the important stuff attached to it looks great! Light surface rust, but nothing major. It's gonna need a new exhaust system, but that was to be expected. There was a LOT of rust on the pipes!
The most disappointing thing I think though is what happened as I lifted the body off the frame. I'm not quite sure how i'm going to fix it yet, but basically it tried to bend like a taco shell as I lifted, causing the door jambs to bend in. I think they're still salvageable, but it's gonna take some seriously delicate body work to make it look exactly right again. I tried to get some pics of what it looks like now that it's on sawhorses, but the effect is more noticeable when you're looking at it in person.
So there it is.....now it's gonna be a lot of fitting and tacking and hammers and welders. Hopefully I can still salvage this body. I really don't wanna pay the exorbitant price of replacing the whole tub! I'm not a fan of the fiberglass stuff, and I'd love to do the Aluminum tub, but it cost's more than I paid for the whole jeep! I'll keep dinking away with what I've got and hopefully I'll be able to make it all work with just a bit of elbow grease and determination!
Well that sucks!! I was thinking you said you had a donor tub but I guess not. (Too many build threads being read for my brain to keep track of!)
This is why I fixed my rocker panels first and then welded braces to my bottom before moving it. I know that doesn't help you now. I'd say at this point you'd be best to get yourself some 14ga. metal the length of the side with a 1/2" lip bent under, similar to what I did, to give you a rigid and true bottom edge to base all your lines and measurements from. The problem you may have trying to straighten and flatten the existing back out is having the metal stretch. It'll be easier to shape the door opening profile strip than the entire body along with it. And I say all that assuming your rocker bottom is shot from rust anyways. No sense in trying to reshape rust.
Ok, so the weekend is over and I guess in the next day or two it's gonna be back at it for me. I'm thinking maybe I can grab the high lift and a block of wood and use that to separate the body back out the way it should be. Then I'll probably weld in a cross brace (once I get my welder happy again) so that it won't buckle in that spot again. I'm going to be replacing the Top Cowl with the floors and sides, but now I think I'm gonna want a firewall to go with it. The firewall I have is in pretty rough shape. Now I'm kinda wishing I had bought the single piece floor pan after all! LOL! Obviously money isn't endless and I'm still looking for a sand blaster. Has anyone done the math to figure out if buying my own or just paying someone to blast it for me is cheaper? I haven't yet, but I'm always big on just doing it myself (because it means shiny new tools). I have found a 110lb blaster at harbor freight, anyone have any experience with this one?
I bought the HF 110# blast pot years ago to blast a boat trailer. You need a pretty good air compressor, mine is an Ingersoll Rand 80 gallon, motor is a 11.8 starting and 5 hp running. It got a real workout on the blast pot. Sand is a problem, the Home Depot play sand needs to be sifted, otherwise larger pebbles keep your nozzle stopped up. I went and bought some medium abrasive sand from a blast supply house. On the other hand, I put a big tarp down and recycled the sand several times thru the sifter I built. Also, go ahead and buy some extra ceramic nozzles, a spare cut off valve and a spare hose. Still have the pot, sifter and compressor. My opinion; hire it done.
I used a hopper type sandblaster to do my tub. I already had one but I wouldn't think they'd be much over $50. I used KwikCrete medium sand from Lowe's at $4-5 a bag, with tarps to recoup, sift, and reuse. So it was much cheaper than hiring it out, provided I could even find a place to do it nearby. However it took lots of time and was a pita, especially if it's hot out because you'll sweat your ears off under a hood and the glass window will keep fogging up. Not to mention that sand will go everywhere even when bundled up and a mask on!
So it's a matter of how much is the job worth to you. If you can find a reputable place and can afford it, have someone else do it.
Ok, so I've got a sand blaster on it's way. I'll start blasting the body and frame when it gets here. Hopefully I can salvage the tub, but in case I can't does anyone have a lead on a CJ or YJ tub that might be going on the market around the Houston area at an affordable price?