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05-28-2012, 07:37 PM
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#16
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: NW Washington
Posts: 696
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^That is your best bet in your case. A tie rod flip would help also but bump steer will need to be addressed. A steering dampener will help.
82jeepcj7, what is that monster knuckle from? John Deere?
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05-28-2012, 07:40 PM
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#17
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: saint leonard, maryland
Posts: 1,542
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by Shiftace
^That is your best bet in your case. A tie rod flip would help also but bump steer will need to be addressed. A steering dampener will help.
82jeepcj7, what is that monster knuckle from? John Deere?
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How could I address bump steer in that case? That dragline no matter what will be at a wicked angle unless I use a drop pitman arm. Most people are against those though
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if nothings breaking your not wheeling it hard enough
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05-28-2012, 08:21 PM
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#18
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Marysville, WA
Posts: 3,715
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The knuckle is off a Dana 60.
A dropped Pittman arm will help get the drag link level with the tie rod. Dropped arms work fine.
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Beat it to fit, paint it to match!
Wheel, Wrench, Repeat.
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05-29-2012, 04:22 AM
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#19
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: saint leonard, maryland
Posts: 1,542
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by 82JeepCJ7
The knuckle is off a Dana 60.
A dropped Pittman arm will help get the drag link level with the tie rod. Dropped arms work fine.
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If I used a dropped pitman arm and put the draglink on the tie rod close to the knuckle would I be able to get away with my stock steering box?
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if nothings breaking your not wheeling it hard enough
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05-29-2012, 04:53 AM
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#20
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2009
Location: piqua, OHIO
Posts: 1,855
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What is your rear axle? Why the hurry on getting this 60 under the front? If it were me I would look into getting a different Dana 60 with king pins. Swapping axles and going cheap isn't two things that should go together and especially when it comes to steering. Spring under axle is the only way I see you being able to keep the steering close to parallel. Soa you will have to use ridiculous "S" bends in the drag link which is unsafe. I don't think they make after Market knuckles for ball joint 60's.
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82cj7 / soa wrangler springs / amc 360 / t18a granny / d300 twin stick / 37" pitbull rockers radials / h1's / 3/4ton d44 with high steering / 14 bolt ff / clocking ring
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05-29-2012, 06:18 AM
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#21
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Marysville, WA
Posts: 3,715
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You can get the ball joint knuckles already set up for high steer, but they cost a lot. Having the knuckle machined doesn't really cost that much by comparison. I agree, holding out for a kingpin axle may be worth the wait. Switching over to high steer on a kingpin axle is a short, relatively inexpensive option.
You can get inner C forgings and knuckles to convert the axle to the kingpin style, but you could buy a complete axle for the cost of those parts.
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Beat it to fit, paint it to match!
Wheel, Wrench, Repeat.
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05-29-2012, 03:39 PM
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#22
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: saint leonard, maryland
Posts: 1,542
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by nshefbuch
What is your rear axle? Why the hurry on getting this 60 under the front? If it were me I would look into getting a different Dana 60 with king pins. Swapping axles and going cheap isn't two things that should go together and especially when it comes to steering. Spring under axle is the only way I see you being able to keep the steering close to parallel. Soa you will have to use ridiculous "S" bends in the drag link which is unsafe. I don't think they make after Market knuckles for ball joint 60's.
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Rear is a 14 bolt
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if nothings breaking your not wheeling it hard enough
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05-29-2012, 03:57 PM
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#23
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2009
Location: piqua, OHIO
Posts: 1,855
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by ahar9
Rear is a 14 bolt
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Since you plan down the road to go high steer I would skip this axle and get a different one. Once you sell it the price of a king pin won't be that much different. Just my opinion
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82cj7 / soa wrangler springs / amc 360 / t18a granny / d300 twin stick / 37" pitbull rockers radials / h1's / 3/4ton d44 with high steering / 14 bolt ff / clocking ring
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05-29-2012, 04:00 PM
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#24
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: saint leonard, maryland
Posts: 1,542
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What about a full hydro steering? How much would that cost?
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if nothings breaking your not wheeling it hard enough
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05-29-2012, 04:01 PM
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#25
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: saint leonard, maryland
Posts: 1,542
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by nshefbuch
Since you plan down the road to go high steer I would skip this axle and get a different one. Once you sell it the price of a king pin won't be that much different. Just my opinion
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Is it hard to find a kingpin with 4.10 gears?
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if nothings breaking your not wheeling it hard enough
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05-29-2012, 04:06 PM
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#26
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Colorado
Posts: 9,290
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No harder than finding balljoint with 4.10 gears.
I've seen more kingpin Chevy 60s than balljoint versions.
Full hydro isn't road friendly and is far more expensive than highsteer.
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05-29-2012, 04:13 PM
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#27
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2009
Location: piqua, OHIO
Posts: 1,855
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by CSP
No harder than finding balljoint with 4.10 gears.
I've seen more kingpin Chevy 60s than balljoint versions.
Full hydro isn't road friendly and is far more expensive than highsteer.
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X2 and full hydro while not using high steer isn't a good idea either.
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82cj7 / soa wrangler springs / amc 360 / t18a granny / d300 twin stick / 37" pitbull rockers radials / h1's / 3/4ton d44 with high steering / 14 bolt ff / clocking ring
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05-29-2012, 04:16 PM
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#28
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Colorado
Posts: 9,290
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Yep, I meant to mention that full hydro is used with highsteer arms and forgot to convey that thought.
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05-29-2012, 04:47 PM
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#29
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: saint leonard, maryland
Posts: 1,542
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how about something like this? could somebody tell me what this setup is called so i can look it up? also whats it called with the draglink attached to a mount on the tierod close to the knuckle? only reason i dont want a new kingpin is because ive spent so much time working on these axles. rebuilt all the internals and would really like to find a way to use this balljoint style 60. thanks guys for the help
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if nothings breaking your not wheeling it hard enough
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05-29-2012, 05:12 PM
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#30
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2009
Location: piqua, OHIO
Posts: 1,855
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by ahar9
how about something like this? could somebody tell me what this setup is called so i can look it up? also whats it called with the draglink attached to a mount on the tierod close to the knuckle? only reason i dont want a new kingpin is because ive spent so much time working on these axles. rebuilt all the internals and would really like to find a way to use this balljoint style 60. thanks guys for the help 
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Even with that the drag link would be running below the spring and still need a "S" bend. You can look all you want but the only way to properly setup the steering is with high steer.
For a cheaper fix, check for a new knuckle, as someone mentioned, pass side that you can run high steer for the drag link and keep the tie rod bar in stock location. This way you only buy one knuckle.
If you do go the S bend way you will need steering stabilizer shocks and this still won't cure bump steer.
What size tire are you running? Hope nothing over 37" on ball joints.
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82cj7 / soa wrangler springs / amc 360 / t18a granny / d300 twin stick / 37" pitbull rockers radials / h1's / 3/4ton d44 with high steering / 14 bolt ff / clocking ring
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