Dana 44 Pinon Seal and Nut Torque - JeepForum.com

 
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post #1 of 12 Old 01-10-2009, 07:51 PM Thread Starter
asjordan
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Dana 44 Pinon Seal and Nut Torque

I swapped out my yoke on my front dana 44 a couple of months back. I did not replace the seal which I am sure was a mistake, but I guess I learned. The seal is now leaking. I bet it is from the brake cleaner I used a couple of weeks ago to clean everything off to try to find the rear main leak or valve cover leak. I wanted everything cleaned off to see if I fixed it.

Now I have a leaking pinion seal that I need to fix. My question is what do I do to torque everything down correctly. When I replaced the yoke I had a problem getting the torque right. I placed the yoke on and used a new nut. When I torqued it to 150lbs I could not even turn the yoke. I backed it off until I could turn the yoke and drive shaft.

What am I doing wrong? I know that on a D44 there is not a crush nut. Am I going to have to go in a pull the diff cover and re-set everything?

Please advise. Thanks for all you help.


1979 CJ7; Fiberglass Tub; Dana 44 f/r; Detroit Lockers f/r; 4.88's; I-6 w/ Holley Fuel Injection; T-150 w/ Dana 20 Twin Stick; Full Cage; 35x12.5x15 Super Swampers
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post #2 of 12 Old 01-10-2009, 08:17 PM
dwloop
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The D44 uses shims to set the pinion bearing pre-load, so no matter how tight you make the pinion nut, it should have the correct pre-load. That is if you did not remove the pinion bearings and change shims. Either something is binding, or the pre-load was not set correctly in the first place.

Is the new yoke binding against the seal because of a different dust seal maybe?

Dave
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post #3 of 12 Old 01-10-2009, 08:50 PM
foggybottombob
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Dwloop is right. The torque on the nut should not affect how hard it is to turn the yoke. And the problem is either not enough preload shims or the yoke is rubbing something like he said. I don't know what else could cause that.
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post #4 of 12 Old 01-10-2009, 09:01 PM Thread Starter
asjordan
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Could it be possible that when I pulled the old yoke that some of the shims came out with it (ie. stuck to it) and I did not know it or see them? If so, how do I know how many shims to replace because the old yoke is long gone.

1979 CJ7; Fiberglass Tub; Dana 44 f/r; Detroit Lockers f/r; 4.88's; I-6 w/ Holley Fuel Injection; T-150 w/ Dana 20 Twin Stick; Full Cage; 35x12.5x15 Super Swampers
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post #5 of 12 Old 01-10-2009, 09:06 PM
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Shouldn't cause they R behind the seal.


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post #6 of 12 Old 01-10-2009, 09:09 PM Thread Starter
asjordan
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That is at least one good thing. Maybe I "ate" the seal up with the carb cleaner and all I will have to do it put in a new seal.

1979 CJ7; Fiberglass Tub; Dana 44 f/r; Detroit Lockers f/r; 4.88's; I-6 w/ Holley Fuel Injection; T-150 w/ Dana 20 Twin Stick; Full Cage; 35x12.5x15 Super Swampers
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post #7 of 12 Old 01-10-2009, 09:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asjordan View Post
Could it be possible that when I pulled the old yoke that some of the shims came out with it (ie. stuck to it) and I did not know it or see them? If so, how do I know how many shims to replace because the old yoke is long gone.
I agree with the other two guys on this... Tightness on the nut shouldn't change it. Since it does, tighten that sucker up and see if hitting the pinion square between the yoke or hitting the yoke sides won't loosen it up a bit.

Also, before you put the new yoke on, make sure you use some assembly lube on the seal/yoke.

No, loosing the shims isn't possible - unless you took the bearing out, too. From outside in you have...
Nut
Yoke
seal
slinger
bearing
shims


As for torque on the nut, I believe spec is 200 ftlbs. I'll also use red loctite on a new nut, as well.

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post #8 of 12 Old 01-10-2009, 09:13 PM
Rollbar
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Though you said you couldn't turn the yoke until U backed it off. Something seems wrong to me.


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post #9 of 12 Old 01-10-2009, 09:16 PM
Rollbar
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P.S. Super 300 works well on the outer seal, inner splines as well as the yoke face that sits on the slinger.


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post #10 of 12 Old 01-10-2009, 09:19 PM
dwloop
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asjordan View Post
Could it be possible that when I pulled the old yoke that some of the shims came out with it (ie. stuck to it) and I did not know it or see them? If so, how do I know how many shims to replace because the old yoke is long gone.
Not unless you removed the front bearing, the pre-load shims are placed behind the front bearing on the pinion shaft... You would have had to remove the seal to get them out... Even if you had left out the oil slinger (if it has one, and still behind the seal) it would not have affected the pre-load, but may have let the yoke slide back far enough to bind.

Like we said before, if nothing is binding, chances are it was not setup correctly before hand.

HTH

Dave
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post #11 of 12 Old 01-10-2009, 09:55 PM Thread Starter
asjordan
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Thanks for the help. I will hopefully get to take a look at it, but unsure if time will allow. I took it out today for one last trip before an extended all expense paid vacation compliments of the US taxpayers. If I don't look at it before I leave I will when I get back this summer.

1979 CJ7; Fiberglass Tub; Dana 44 f/r; Detroit Lockers f/r; 4.88's; I-6 w/ Holley Fuel Injection; T-150 w/ Dana 20 Twin Stick; Full Cage; 35x12.5x15 Super Swampers
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post #12 of 12 Old 01-10-2009, 09:56 PM
foggybottombob
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The preload shims are inside the outer bearing. The fit between the bearing face and a small lip on the pinion shaft.
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