Dana 44 Front axle Swap for SOA - Page 2

UbelGeist · 08-19-2010, 08:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NelsonATC

Ok,

A couple more questions: Running a Chevy D44 cut to 63.5", what do you run as a rear? Seems like most everything is either 60" or full width?

This seems to leave me 2 options: Cut a Chevy D44 down to 63.5" and then cut the rear to match, leaving me custom shafts in the rear, or

Cut the Chevy D44 down to 60", leaving me more stock options in the rear. Is it possible to cut the this axle to 60" and still avoid out boarding?

If it is feasible, it seems like the second option is better, as I am left with only one custom length shaft.

Thoughts?

I am cutting a chevy axle down to 60" WMS and in the back I am putting in a 98 ford explorer 8.8 which is close to 60" already.

CSP · 08-19-2010, 08:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NelsonATC

Ok,

A couple more questions: Running a Chevy D44 cut to 63.5", what do you run as a rear? Seems like most everything is either 60" or full width?

Cab & Chassis version of the 14 bolt is 63.5". You need to be running a minimum of a 37" tire for this axle and it needs the bottom shaved to minimize dragging it over everything. This is an eight lug axle, so swapping a front Chevy 44 to eight lug adds another two inches to the width, leaving it at 65.5". This really is a perfect match. You want the front to be a bit wider than the rear.

Fullsize Jeep widetrack are in the 62" range. Fullsize Cherokee Chief will have this rear axle.

Quote:

Originally Posted by foggybottombob

These are some shaft lengths that I looked up in multiple places.

FSJ Narrow:
33.1875 long
14.6875 short

It should be noted that these are the lengths for passenger drop FSJ narrow trac axleshafts. Drivers drop (80-91) are NOT the same.

**NelsonATC** · 08-19-2010, 09:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by UbelGeist

I am cutting a chevy axle down to 60" WMS and in the back I am putting in a 98 ford explorer 8.8 which is close to 60" already.

This looks to be right up my alley. Nice write up! Posting to your thread now.

**foggybottombob** · 08-19-2010, 09:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CSP

It should be noted that these are the lengths for passenger drop FSJ narrow trac axleshafts. Drivers drop (80-91) are NOT the same.

Thanks I'll make a note of that. Does anyone have the shaft lengths for the driver drop waggy narrow track axles?

CSP · 08-19-2010, 10:56 AM

80-91 Narrow track full size Jeep:

Long side is 32.12"
Short side is 15.8"

Another source for accurate inner axleshaft info: WARN Front Axle Shaft Reference Tables | moose.ca

The only thing bad about it is the years aren't necessarily all inclusive. For example it only shows FSJ driver drop as 80-84 yet the same front axle was used through '91, with the exception being the vacuum disconnect front 44 used in '83-84 with the NP209 tcase.

**NelsonATC** · 09-02-2010, 10:51 PM

Came across a D44 front out of a Ramcharger. Going out to look tomorrow. This is all I know at this point. Any issues with a this axle in regards to a springover swap? I hear hubs could be an issue due to the bearing setup in these during certain years. Can anyone tell me more?

CSP · 09-03-2010, 08:42 AM

Pre-80 Dodge will be a 5 on 4.5" lug pattern with the unit bearing. You really don't wan't that setup if thats' what it is.

They are already spring over, but Dodge has some oddball spring perch width. They aren't really popular for a number of reasons.

**NelsonATC** · 09-03-2010, 07:05 PM

Thanks! I think I will stand clear of this one.

BlueRubiconrich · 10-19-2010, 08:21 PM

My Buddys have all done Scout Dana 44 front axles.
So I'm picking up one this weekend with the gears I need. I will
have to cut 4" off one side and cut both knuckles off and rotate them.
set the caster and pionion angles. cut off a spring perch and grind the short side perch.

John N · 10-19-2010, 08:32 PM

There's a built/bolt-in Dana 44 for sale over on www.cj-8.com (not mine), 62" and locked. He's putting in a 60.

**NelsonATC** · 11-08-2010, 02:43 PM

Wanted to bring this back to life and see if an else out ther has narrowed a Chevy D44 to 60"

I am concerned with how it will set up in relation to the current spring location, will I need to outboard, will both sides need to be cut to properly locate, etc...

CSP · 11-08-2010, 03:34 PM

Narrowing to 60" will amount to taking 5.75 off the long side and 1.75 off the short side. The passenger perch on the axle will attach to your spring in the factory location and the drivers side perch will be welded on so that it resides under the drivers side spring in it's factory location. The alxle will be centered, not outboarding necessary.

It isn't that hard to figure it out, even if you have to draw it out on some paper. It's just simple subtraction and division.

BlueRubiconrich · 11-08-2010, 06:03 PM

I'm working on a Scout Dana 44 front end in a CJ7

1 you have to remove both ears and spring pads
2 set pionion angle
3 put ears back on and set caster
4 check camber.

CSP · 11-09-2010, 08:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BlueRubiconrich

I'm working on a Scout Dana 44 front end in a CJ7......

Since the question was in regards to a Chevy you don't have to remove the spring pads or mess with the pinion angle.

By "ears" I assume you mean the inner knuckle, or "C's".

84scrambler · 11-19-2010, 01:28 AM

I am in the middle of trying to cut my axle down again. I started with a chevy axle a few years ago and cut down the long side 4" and was able to use a wagoneer long side shaft and the original chevy short side shaft. I converted it over to 5 on 5.5 lug bolt pattern and ran 35 12.50 tires. This thing came out pretty wide (I have a scout rear that sits a little wider the 58" and it looks a bit funny) and now I am changing so it matches the rear. I measure my wms to wms about 5 different ways and am getting right around 64". I measured across the top and got 64 5/16" and then I measured across the bottom and got 64". I think the camber is causing the variation. I also measured the rear scout axle several times and am getting a repeatable 58 3/8" width. I'm using a Fat Max tape measure so there will be some deviation in my measurements.

I currently have another chevy front axle sitting on the floor also cutdown 4" on the long side with both knuckles taken off. The plan is to match the rear axle with this guy. I was able to get a descent measurement from the center of the spring mount to the end of the axle tube and got right at 10" on both sides.

So far my plan is to go 58.6" wide in the front. This way I can at least use a front wagoneer short side shaft and only have to get the long side cut down to length. In the end I will be cutting down the short side by 2.7" and the long side by 6.7".

If your axle measures to a similar width as mine then you will need to cut down approximately 2" on the short side and 6" on the long side. This should put you right around 60" wide with 5 on 5.5 outers.

Is there a real benefit to going wider in the front then the back? Does it help on road steering performance?

08-19-2010, 10:56 AM	#20
CSP Registered User Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Colorado Posts: 6,291 Profile Gallery Classifieds My Jeeps	80-91 Narrow track full size Jeep: Long side is 32.12" Short side is 15.8" Another source for accurate inner axleshaft info: WARN Front Axle Shaft Reference Tables \| moose.ca The only thing bad about it is the years aren't necessarily all inclusive. For example it only shows FSJ driver drop as 80-84 yet the same front axle was used through '91, with the exception being the vacuum disconnect front 44 used in '83-84 with the NP209 tcase.

09-03-2010, 08:42 AM	#22
CSP Registered User Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Colorado Posts: 6,291 Profile Gallery Classifieds My Jeeps	Pre-80 Dodge will be a 5 on 4.5" lug pattern with the unit bearing. You really don't wan't that setup if thats' what it is. They are already spring over, but Dodge has some oddball spring perch width. They aren't really popular for a number of reasons.

11-08-2010, 03:34 PM	#27
CSP Registered User Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Colorado Posts: 6,291 Profile Gallery Classifieds My Jeeps	Narrowing to 60" will amount to taking 5.75 off the long side and 1.75 off the short side. The passenger perch on the axle will attach to your spring in the factory location and the drivers side perch will be welded on so that it resides under the drivers side spring in it's factory location. The alxle will be centered, not outboarding necessary. It isn't that hard to figure it out, even if you have to draw it out on some paper. It's just simple subtraction and division.

11-19-2010, 01:28 AM	#30
84scrambler Registered User Join Date: Jul 2005 Posts: 29 Profile Gallery Classifieds My Jeeps	I am in the middle of trying to cut my axle down again. I started with a chevy axle a few years ago and cut down the long side 4" and was able to use a wagoneer long side shaft and the original chevy short side shaft. I converted it over to 5 on 5.5 lug bolt pattern and ran 35 12.50 tires. This thing came out pretty wide (I have a scout rear that sits a little wider the 58" and it looks a bit funny) and now I am changing so it matches the rear. I measure my wms to wms about 5 different ways and am getting right around 64". I measured across the top and got 64 5/16" and then I measured across the bottom and got 64". I think the camber is causing the variation. I also measured the rear scout axle several times and am getting a repeatable 58 3/8" width. I'm using a Fat Max tape measure so there will be some deviation in my measurements. I currently have another chevy front axle sitting on the floor also cutdown 4" on the long side with both knuckles taken off. The plan is to match the rear axle with this guy. I was able to get a descent measurement from the center of the spring mount to the end of the axle tube and got right at 10" on both sides. So far my plan is to go 58.6" wide in the front. This way I can at least use a front wagoneer short side shaft and only have to get the long side cut down to length. In the end I will be cutting down the short side by 2.7" and the long side by 6.7". If your axle measures to a similar width as mine then you will need to cut down approximately 2" on the short side and 6" on the long side. This should put you right around 60" wide with 5 on 5.5 outers. Is there a real benefit to going wider in the front then the back? Does it help on road steering performance?