1985 CJ7 Project Phase One : 5.3L Vortec/4L60E, Moser axles for AMC20, Twin Stick'd Dana300 - Completed Phase Two: Bedliner, Rollcage, Seats, BESRK Rear Bumper w/ tire swing, Soft Top, and a few other goodies - Mostly Complete Phase Three: Waggy 44 front, Scout D44 Rear, 4.56's, ARB's (F/R) SOA with YJ Springs, 35x12.50x15 BFG MT - Not Even Close to beginning
Also a mostly rust-free 1970 Scout 800A That I'll get to start working on someday...
Chrome won't get you home...BUT Rattle Can Black may just get you back"
Wasnt lying about opening the wallet dynatrac wants 5700 currie wants 3500 reusing all my dana 30 brakes bearings and knuckles and sams is the one im going with dana 44 detroit locked locking hubs 410 gears and already oiled for 3500 thanks for the help guys
yeah i was going to try an old ford or scout but i cant find one around my house with the correct width or within a couple inches difference. this is a daily driver iv driven miles with this jeep and plan on keeping it for a very long time ie till it collapses into pieces on the trail or rd so thats the reason for the new front end. i appreciate all yalls help and appreciate any others that might not of been listed if any knows anywhere else besides the ones listed above id be happy to indulge myself in another phone call.
It seems like you got some money to spend if you were considering a crate axle. If you're serious about putting a dana 44 in there you can always go to the junkyard and pick up a full width 44. Jigs are only needed for shortening rear axles, front axles are much easier and cheaper. You can cut both tubes down to the width you want, cutting 4" more on the long side of course so you don't have to outboard. Cut off saw will do the trick. Then you can either buy new inner c's or cut the tube out of the ones you have with a sawzall. It can be a PITA, but it's possible. Pound them back on and weld. Moser will shorten both axles for $125.
The advantage of this route is you can set your pinion angle to the correct angle instead of sacrificing it for caster and you can set the WMS to whatever you want.
Sounds like a lot of work, but it's not that bad.
Get a narrow track Waggy axle from 74-79. Those are passenger drop and from ball joint to ball joint they are only about 1/8" wider than a scout II front axle. The waggy axle has the pumpkin more offset toward the center than a scout axle is and it also has some caster from the factory. A scout II front axle has zero caster unless it is a 1980 and that one only has 1.5 degrees as I recall. The other choice is to buy a chevy truck front D44 and cut 4" off the long side. Supposedly that makes a long waggy shaft fit the long side and leaves you with a CJ compatible axle width. The pumpkin on this modified chevy axle is far enough to the inside to not require outboarding of spring hangars too.
The other choice is to buy a chevy truck front D44 and cut 4" off the long side. Supposedly that makes a long waggy shaft fit the long side and leaves you with a CJ compatible axle width. The pumpkin on this modified chevy axle is far enough to the inside to not require outboarding of spring hangars too.
Any 80-91 long side waggie shaft works in this manner. The '79 and older do not as they are not the same length as the later ones.
As for width, a five lug Chevy narrowed 4" will be 66.5" wms to wms. It's still pretty wide and wider than a stock Waggie or Scout by several inches. Six lug will be 65.5" and eight lug will be 67.5" (my CJ5 has this setup).
Outboarding isn't required on any of these 44s (Scout, Waggie, Chevy) as long as they are narrowed.
The other thing to consider is the Chevy is setup for springs on top of the axle and the Waggie is under like a stock CJ is configured.