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Dana 300 Twin Sticks

7K views 21 replies 10 participants last post by  RARECJ8 
#1 ·
Hi All - I'm new to the site here and thinking about installing twin sticks on my Dana 300.

Would like to get your input on how the install goes, seems pretty straight forward. A link to a past install with pics would be great!

Specific question I have, do you have to disassemble the gearbox at all?

Also, who is selling the best kit?

Thanks!
 
#3 ·
I did a home made job similar to what rollbar did in this thread here http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/twin-stick-dana-300-a-1193983/
I used a second stock shifter (got one that was longer than the one I already had) and made a few bends to it to give clearance. Works good for me. I did modify the plates from the drawings shown. I didn't use the sleeve as a spacer, I just used washers to space it over so had to make the inboard plate wider. I ended up using the half bushings welded to the plates to cut down on the slop while shifting.

Robert
 
#6 ·
Hi All - I'm new to the site here and thinking about installing twin sticks on my Dana 300.

Would like to get your input on how the install goes, seems pretty straight forward. A link to a past install with pics would be great!

Specific question I have, do you have to disassemble the gearbox at all?

Also, who is selling the best kit?

Thanks!
Your're welcome.

JS
 
#7 · (Edited)
The more I think about this, the more questions I have...sorry!

I have front and rear Dana 44's, both with Detroit Lockers and Superwinch locking hubs in the front.

How does all this tie together when I install twin sticks?

Do you guys leave your locking hubs locked all the time?
 
#8 ·
I also use the JB Custom Fabrications kit. I love mine. I keep my hubs locked on the trail, but not around town. It's nice to be able to easily disengage the front axle on tight sections of trail. It really stops the "push" you get from a front axle with a locker.

There is an internal interlock that prevents you from having one axle in high range and the other axle in low range at the same time. Unfortunately, the way it works it also prevents having the front axle engaged without the rear axle engaged, so no FWD. Removing it does require some disassembly of the T-case.

The advantage is theoretically being able to drive in front wheel drive (only) if you mess up the rear driveline. I figure most situations where that is conceivable, I can just remove the rear driveshaft and limp somewhere on the front axle only, letting the rear T-case output spin without being connected to anything.

There is also a maneuver called a front wheel dig--you can google to see videos. Never done it, never needed to, but having front wheel drive only (and rear brakes) is the prerequisite.

I'm pretty confident I wouldn't forget and screw up, but I worried that anyone who ever drove my Jeep could accidentally get it wrong and destroy something. I left the interlock pill in, even when I had the D300 fully disassembled to put in a 4:1 kit. Risk wasn't worth the reward for me. Others will disagree, I'm sure :)
 
#22 ·
I also use the JB Custom Fabrications kit. I love mine. I keep my hubs locked on the trail, but not around town. It's nice to be able to easily disengage the front axle on tight sections of trail. It really stops the "push" you get from a front axle with a locker.

There is an internal interlock that prevents you from having one axle in high range and the other axle in low range at the same time. Unfortunately, the way it works it also prevents having the front axle engaged without the rear axle engaged, so no FWD. Removing it does require some disassembly of the T-case.

The advantage is theoretically being able to drive in front wheel drive (only) if you mess up the rear driveline. I figure most situations where that is conceivable, I can just remove the rear driveshaft and limp somewhere on the front axle only, letting the rear T-case output spin without being connected to anything.

There is also a maneuver called a front wheel dig--you can google to see videos. Never done it, never needed to, but having front wheel drive only (and rear brakes) is the prerequisite.

I'm pretty confident I wouldn't forget and screw up, but I worried that anyone who ever drove my Jeep could accidentally get it wrong and destroy something. I left the interlock pill in, even when I had the D300 fully disassembled to put in a 4:1 kit. Risk wasn't worth the reward for me. Others will disagree, I'm sure :)
I have the advance adapter twin kit and low range front only is an option. Comes in handy at times.

http://www.advanceadapters.com/products/403300--dana-300-twin-stick-shifter/
 
#15 ·
Great info guys, I appreciate it! I really like the look of the the JB Custom Fabrications kit.

60Bubba - Did you have to modify the shift levers at all due to any interference?
I made two modifications:

1. To get the long bolt in the kit through the mounting ears on the transfer case requires lots of room. If you can lower your transfer case skid plate and let the whole drivetrain settle somewhat, you'll get more clearance between the bolt and the transmission tunnel.

I ended up leaving out one of the washers to have room for the bolt and the hardware.

2. Once installed, I heated the sticks up with a propane torch and bent them to clear the tub and have more room in between each stick. They were OK when sitting still, but when the drivetrain shifted, they would hit the tub.

The picture I attached is after I swapped in a T19 in place of my T5 transmission. New tunnel cover and slightly different relative position of the twin sticks. I adjusted again with heat.

My knobs are the laser etched aluminum JB sells. I ordered them from Amazon, but he's the vendor. They also add an inch or so to the stick length. They're a little short as others have mentioned, but no trouble for me.

Case
 

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#10 ·
Have the JB on d300. Best thing, apart from the extra drive options , is the nice easy shifts I now have on twin stick compared to the stiff OEM single. I did make up some 1.5" SS extensions for the JBs because the sticks were a little short for me. Used OEM knobs which add a little more height too. Pic is mock up pre fabbing and polishing extensions. May do some round ones for a better match in future but very low priority. Yes, I did have to "re-shape" sticks for clearance [RHD tf999 auto- but pretty sure is same floor/tunnel config as LHD]
 

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#11 ·
I made my own, similar to the JB design, and also kind of similar to the stock shifter design. Used a bolt as the shaft with the threaded end cut off. Used some bushings that slide inside the shifter support, some washers, with a wave washer in there to keep things pushed together tight and a little bushing with a set screw to keep it together.





 
#13 ·
As mikey said the body needed a little clearancing, the top pictures are my old tub, bottom are my new tub. I tried to make the sticks so i didnt need to trim the body but ended up having to put the hole in the side as the bolt head would have just barely hit the body. Ill eventually make a cover for it.

I also clocked my Tcase up quite a bit which raised it up closer to the body. You can see though on my shifters the connection between the rod and the shifter is foreward towards the front of the vehicle rather than on top like the JB kit which gave me more room and let the body sit closer to the tcase shifter support without having to actually notch the body like it is in the first picture.
 
#14 ·
Nice set up guys, I hope to get mine deal going in the next few weeks. I don't have a second stick, and for the cost of a new one, I may end up going with the JB design. Will keep beating the bushes to see what I can find first though.

I will post pics when i get it going, but this is what i will be working with...
 

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#17 ·
Well boys, I pulled the trigger and ordered a set of the JB Fab twin sticks. Jon Barricklow at JB Fab is a really nice guy and very helpful. I would highly recommend getting his input.

I was concerned the sticks would be too short in my application since I have a 2" body lift. They will make you custom length shifters up to 6" longer than standard for an additional $30. I'm having mine made with an additional 4".

I will post pics after the install...
 
#18 ·
Well boys, I pulled the trigger and ordered a set of the JB Fab twin sticks. Jon Barricklow at JB Fab is a really nice guy and very helpful. I would highly recommend getting his input.

I was concerned the sticks would be too short in my application since I have a 2" body lift. They will make you custom length shifters up to 6" longer than standard for an additional $30. I'm having mine made with an additional 4".

I will post pics after the install...
Of course!!! I just should have asked, yet again:facepalm:, when I bought mine. Additional 3-4" would have saved me a bit of toil and looked schmick. Enjoy.
 
#19 ·
I installed the twin sticks this weekend. Solid kit from JB Fab, I highly recommend their products.

I had to trim the tub a little and ended up making a new shift cover. Other than that, the install was a breeze.

No modification required to the shift rods on my set up. I would suggest having the extra length added to the shift rods, I like the height they ended up at. I had an additional 4" added to these.

Very pleased with the new set up!
 

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