I love that press rig in pic14. looks just like the one that i have! Came in handy for a few of the other removals/assemblies.
never thought about the dowell thing for the keeping some of the needle bearings in. i eventually just fished them all out of the bottom once i could get to them...
1982 CJ-7 2003 4.3 chevy vortec, 4L60E, Clocked Dana 300 35 x 12.5 x 15 KM2 on Cragar 399's. Vanco Brake Booster. Power steering conversion. Warn front and rear bumpers with swing away. Moser 1 piece rears. Rear OX.
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Spoke with Novak this morning. The bearing with the groove is all that they can get right now. It is the same measurements and will work. The bearing with the snap ring is the 6209 NR and without the ring is 6209. Now just waiting for the other bearing and the small parts kit. Got the input bearing installed without much trouble. Hoping that the old shims will get me close when it comes time to measure the end play. I will take some more photos and post them tomorrow. It was way to hot today to spend any long period of time at the workbench.
Thanks for the offer on the tranny. I have a second one that I just finished rebuilding.
The transfer case is all put back together and seems to function pretty well. I tried to keep all the end play measurements at .001 to .002. I figure that with new bearings it can only get worn and add to the measurement. The book calls for .001 to 0.005. The only real pain on the assembly was the end play for the rear output shaft. In order to make changes you have to remove the rear output housing and remove bearing to add shims. On the front output shaft adding and removing shims are not really a problem. I have plenty of photos and some knowledge so please feel free to ask any questions.
Twin sticks are on the way from JB Custom Fab and I am thinking about clocking the case so I can still use my old Dana 20 skid plate or make a new flat one.
Great right up! I know this is a couple months back, but i was wondering if you could help me out. I need to replace the rear output shaft fork clips (little plastic pieces that go on the inside of the fork into the sliding ring)
I was hoping i could get them on without pulling the case all the way apart. but the top one is so hard to get to. Is there anyway around this? or do i have to pull the hole thing apart.
Thanks in advance. All help is appreciated.
99 4dr XJ
- RE 5.5 coils / Clayton Long Arms / Rear Bastard pack / 33 Bias TSL's
- stretched on 1 tons and 42s
hey bjf498 I had a spare tranny that I rebuilt. Thanks for the offer.
Kniel3378 you will probably have to remove the middle shaft and gear along with the shift rails to get the shift forks out. It is not a big project though. The hard parts are the shafts of either side of the middle shaft. Those require bearings to be removed and end play measurements to be taken.
Have you put it back in the vehicle ? If so did you bolt the transmission to the skid plate , the transfer case to the transmission and reinstall as one unit ?
1984 jeep cj7, 258 I6, rebuilt T176,rebuilt Dana 300, amc 20 , dana 30, 4.10's Trac-lok in rear , 4.10's detroit soft locker in dana 30, 2.5 inch bds suspension lift, 1 inch polyurethan body mount lift. Line ex. weber carburetor. factory tach. factory clock ,oem replacement speedomter cluster, and oil pressure gauge, factory volt gauge.
It is not in the frame yet. I have the tranny and transfer case apart and waiting to to on clocking ring. I think will put them together on the workbench and then mate to the engine as one. I believe it will make installing the sleeve with the clocking ring a little easier. Trying to decide on the engine right now. It is going to be a Chevy 350 but I am not sure if I want FI or Carb and how big to go. It started with a base Chevy crate motor around 290 HP and just keeps going up. "If your going to be a bear be a GRIZZLY" Maybe I should just do the 383 stroker. Just kidding too much money.
Had some time today to finish up on the Dana 300. Added the clocking ring and bolted the adapter plate up. I had to remove some of the shifter mounting boss to make room for the trans. and adapter once the 300 was clocked flat. Good reason for some twin sticks. The sleeve that fits on the input shaft is very thin but goes on easy. Going to have to bend the shift sticks a little to make them fit through the floor.