Dana 300 Rebuild - Page 2 - JeepForum.com

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post #16 of 43 Old 07-11-2011, 03:33 PM
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1982 CJ7 
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Location: Central Virginia
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I love that press rig in pic14. looks just like the one that i have! Came in handy for a few of the other removals/assemblies.

never thought about the dowell thing for the keeping some of the needle bearings in. i eventually just fished them all out of the bottom once i could get to them...

1982 CJ-7 2003 4.3 chevy vortec, 4L60E, Clocked Dana 300 35 x 12.5 x 15 KM2 on Cragar 399's. Vanco Brake Booster. Power steering conversion. Warn front and rear bumpers with swing away. Moser 1 piece rears. Rear OX.

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Originally Posted by twoleos617 View Post
To reiterate for the 1,067th time, when towing...
remove rear axle, xfer in N, trans in 5th, remove neg batt cable, key to Run and go??
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post #17 of 43 Old 07-11-2011, 04:54 PM
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Excellent write up.
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post #18 of 43 Old 07-11-2011, 07:07 PM Thread Starter
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1977 CJ7 
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Spoke with Novak this morning. The bearing with the groove is all that they can get right now. It is the same measurements and will work. The bearing with the snap ring is the 6209 NR and without the ring is 6209. Now just waiting for the other bearing and the small parts kit. Got the input bearing installed without much trouble. Hoping that the old shims will get me close when it comes time to measure the end play. I will take some more photos and post them tomorrow. It was way to hot today to spend any long period of time at the workbench.
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post #19 of 43 Old 07-24-2011, 05:00 PM
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Hey SpringPro, got any updates on that D300 build? Looking to get started my self and want to see how yours turns out.

1980 CJ-5
My build thread: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/bo...j-5-a-1290405/

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post #20 of 43 Old 07-24-2011, 05:06 PM
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1981 CJ7 
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still need a T176? I have one and I an greyhound bus it to you. $80 for shipping and $120 for tranny.




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Great minds think alike, but so do serial killers......Thanks.
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post #21 of 43 Old 07-24-2011, 05:58 PM Thread Starter
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1977 CJ7 
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Thanks for the offer on the tranny. I have a second one that I just finished rebuilding.

The transfer case is all put back together and seems to function pretty well. I tried to keep all the end play measurements at .001 to .002. I figure that with new bearings it can only get worn and add to the measurement. The book calls for .001 to 0.005. The only real pain on the assembly was the end play for the rear output shaft. In order to make changes you have to remove the rear output housing and remove bearing to add shims. On the front output shaft adding and removing shims are not really a problem. I have plenty of photos and some knowledge so please feel free to ask any questions.

Twin sticks are on the way from JB Custom Fab and I am thinking about clocking the case so I can still use my old Dana 20 skid plate or make a new flat one.
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post #22 of 43 Old 10-26-2011, 01:49 PM
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Great right up! I know this is a couple months back, but i was wondering if you could help me out. I need to replace the rear output shaft fork clips (little plastic pieces that go on the inside of the fork into the sliding ring)

I was hoping i could get them on without pulling the case all the way apart. but the top one is so hard to get to. Is there anyway around this? or do i have to pull the hole thing apart.

Thanks in advance. All help is appreciated.

99 4dr XJ
- RE 5.5 coils / Clayton Long Arms / Rear Bastard pack / 33 Bias TSL's

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post #23 of 43 Old 10-26-2011, 03:59 PM
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Did you ever find another T176? I have one that has good synchros and gears I just snapped the main shaft. and I'm in Baton Rouge ;-)

Small, fine shavings are ok, large chunks are bad, huge chunks with part number stamped on them are real bad.
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post #24 of 43 Old 10-26-2011, 05:09 PM
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The pics in this thread would have been useful when I rebuilt mine in July, but I missed this thread somehow . Looks good!
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post #25 of 43 Old 10-26-2011, 08:37 PM Thread Starter
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1977 CJ7 
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hey bjf498 I had a spare tranny that I rebuilt. Thanks for the offer.

Kniel3378 you will probably have to remove the middle shaft and gear along with the shift rails to get the shift forks out. It is not a big project though. The hard parts are the shafts of either side of the middle shaft. Those require bearings to be removed and end play measurements to be taken.
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post #26 of 43 Old 10-27-2011, 01:12 PM
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Have you put it back in the vehicle ? If so did you bolt the transmission to the skid plate , the transfer case to the transmission and reinstall as one unit ?

1984 jeep cj7, 258 I6, rebuilt T176,rebuilt Dana 300, amc 20 , dana 30, 4.10's Trac-lok in rear , 4.10's detroit soft locker in dana 30, 2.5 inch bds suspension lift, 1 inch polyurethan body mount lift. Line ex. weber carburetor. factory tach. factory clock ,oem replacement speedomter cluster, and oil pressure gauge, factory volt gauge.
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post #27 of 43 Old 10-28-2011, 04:00 AM
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Great write-up. I will be refering to it when I get to mine!

1984 CJ7 - Under construction
4.6L stroker with MPI & AX15 with D300
OME 2.5" YJ springs
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post #28 of 43 Old 10-28-2011, 03:58 PM Thread Starter
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It is not in the frame yet. I have the tranny and transfer case apart and waiting to to on clocking ring. I think will put them together on the workbench and then mate to the engine as one. I believe it will make installing the sleeve with the clocking ring a little easier. Trying to decide on the engine right now. It is going to be a Chevy 350 but I am not sure if I want FI or Carb and how big to go. It started with a base Chevy crate motor around 290 HP and just keeps going up. "If your going to be a bear be a GRIZZLY" Maybe I should just do the 383 stroker. Just kidding too much money.
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post #29 of 43 Old 11-04-2011, 09:02 PM Thread Starter
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Had some time today to finish up on the Dana 300. Added the clocking ring and bolted the adapter plate up. I had to remove some of the shifter mounting boss to make room for the trans. and adapter once the 300 was clocked flat. Good reason for some twin sticks. The sleeve that fits on the input shaft is very thin but goes on easy. Going to have to bend the shift sticks a little to make them fit through the floor.
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post #30 of 43 Old 11-04-2011, 09:15 PM
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Where did you get the clocking ring and how much? Thanks!

BTW - very nice write up.

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