Dana 300 Clocking Ring

**78treehugger** · 02-13-2009, 02:21 PM

I have searched and can't find everything I am looking for. I have a T176 and Dana 300. I wuould like to clock my t-case. According to Bersk he used a speedi sleeve. Is there anything besides a clocking ring and possible speedi sleeveI will need? Where is the best place to get a clocking ring. The speedi sleeve I found in the forum was from Chicago Rawhide and was p/n 99193. I wasn't able to find it on their website. Any and all info would be appreciated. How difficult is this mod? Is it just droppng the t-case and adding the ring? Thanks for the help.

cyclic17 · 02-13-2009, 02:37 PM

I have the T-5 and D300. I clocked my case without using a speedi sleeve, and she leaked like a sieve. I have since put one in. The sleeve is cheap insurance.

That is the same part number that I used.

I got mine from Shawn at Great Lakes Offroad, www.greatlakeoffroad.com

Drop the tranny and t-case as a unit, and install as a unit. I tried installing the D300 with the tranny already installed, and I boogered up the speedi sleeve

So I had to pull it all out again, and install the tranny/case as a unit.

Other than that, it is pretty easy.

**foggybottombob** · 02-13-2009, 02:50 PM

I have the D300 and T-5 too. I pulled the D300 off the tranny. I don't know if I boogered it up putting it back together yet. You can't really see anything at the tranny t-case junction once you start to bolt it up. The thing that was not clear to me was how far the speedi sleeve should hang off the end of the t-case input shaft if any. I got my speedi-sleeve at NAPA. They had it in stock in their tiny store here. I used the great lakes clocking ring off ebay too.

So cyclic17, how far did you let the speedi-sleeve hang off the input shaft? And what did you have to do to make your setup leak? And was it the tranny or the t-case leaking? Do you know?

**foggybottombob** · 02-13-2009, 02:55 PM

Clocking the t-case will move your drive shaft to the passenger side by 3 inches or so if you clock it horizontal. And it moves the drive shaft up too. I had to make my drive shaft about 1" longer to accommodate the clocked t-case.

cyclic17 · 02-13-2009, 03:12 PM

foggy,

After driving it, the assembly was leaking right at the ring, so I really don't know which was leaking. I checked both fluid levels, and both seemed a little low, so I'm still at a loss on that one...

Since the ring was 3/8" thick, I let the sleeve stick out by about 3/8". Unfortunately, I started an axle swap at the same time, and haven't wrapped that up yet. So I don't know if anything still leaks.

And I KNOW I boogered it up because I snagged the edge of the sleeve on something while I was trying to horse it up into place. Luckily, I was able to bend it back into shape.

**foggybottombob** · 02-13-2009, 03:49 PM

I had a fancy tranny jack from my neighbor and I chained the D300 down tight. I jacked it up in place and had a long adjustment knob to change the angle of the jack. So I could line the t-case up with the tranny without having to use any self supplied gorilla maneuvers. I slid the jack around until about 3 bolts were through the flange holes and then I started tightening bolts. I could see the female input shaft go onto the tranny shaft before it closed to the point I could not see. I just pulled it together with the bolts. I guess that I might get lucky and not have leaks. I won't know for a while yet since I am doing a twin stick too and have all that to deal with. I get my drive shaft back today. I need to modify the skid plate next to make it flatter. And since the clocking ring moves the t-case back 3/8" it now hits my ladder bar cross member. Aaaaarrrrrgggghhhhh! It's always something else.

cyclic17 · 02-13-2009, 04:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by foggybottombob

Aaaaarrrrrgggghhhhh! It's always something else.

Ain't that the truth!! I went through all of the trouble to clock it up, and then the skidplate that I was given isn't going to work! So, I have this fancy clocked t-case mounted in the stock skid plate....

Once my axle swap is done (narrowed Waggy front D44, Scout rear 44), I'll get to tackle the skid plate fiasco.

**78treehugger** · 02-13-2009, 08:22 PM

Foggy--When you clocked you t-case was it after the SOA? I am only going to have a max of 4" lift. I am just wondering what the chances are of having to modify my driveshaft. Will NAPA know what sleeve I need? Do I just tell them I need a speedi sleeve for a dana 300?

**foggybottombob** · 02-13-2009, 10:39 PM

I did the SOA several years ago but that is not relevant to changing my drive shaft. I have a drive shaft with a 3" travel slip yoke. I had it set where it was 1.5" extended at rest. It was not a stock drive shaft. When I clocked the t-case I think that moved the front output shaft about 4" higher. The drive shaft was 2.5" extended which is most of its travel. So I had to make it a little longer.

I asked for a speedi-sleeve part # 99193 like the original poster said. They can look up that part number. The speedi-sleeve is a thin delicate thing. There is a metal cap with it that should be used to seat the sleeve. When you put it on the t-case input shaft, don't put it on all the way to the seal. You want the sleeve to hang off the end of the shaft some. The speedi-sleeve will slip into the seal on the tranny when you put them back together. The shaft on the tranny is a lot longer than the part of the t-case shaft that protrudes from the D300. So you can get the tranny shaft started sliding into the t-case input shaft before the speedi-sleeve engages the tranny seal. It appears that once the tranny shaft starts to engage the t-case input that it lines up the two shafts properly. I changed my tranny output seal while I had it all apart. I figure the seal that was on it was installed in 1984 so it seemed like a good time to change it.

**foggybottombob** · 02-13-2009, 11:08 PM

The chances of needing a new shaft are proportional to the length of the drive shaft and the angle of it with respect to horizontal. The steeper the DS angle the more it will stretch the slip yoke when you clock the t-case. There are 3 clocking positions on the ring. I went as far as you can to make my t-case horizontal. I could have used either of the two other lower positions.

For my DS I wound up with an angle of 19 degrees from horizontal with a 35.25" shaft. With a little trig
sin(19) * 35.25 = 11.5"
cos(19) * 35.25 = 33.3"

These two numbers would be the two sides of a right triangle (horizontal and vertical) where the drive shaft is the hypotenuse. The 33.3" number is the horizontal component of distance from the diff pinion yoke to the t-case yoke. If we don't change the diff pinion angle then this number is a constant. If I change the vertical number by 4 inches I have 8" as the original position of the t-case input. So from the pythagorean theorem

squrt (7.5 sqrd + 33.3 sqrd) = 34

So if I moved the tcase up 4 inches my original DS length would have been 34. But since I had to add about an inch to the DS to make it fit the new tcase position the original length must have been 34.25. So just working empirically and picking a 3.5" change instead of 4" I get this.
squrt (8 sqrd + 33.3 sqrd) = 34.25

So by my after the fact calcuputions I must have moved the t-case input shaft up about 3.5". And the original angle would be
arctan of 8/33.3 = 13 degrees.

So changing my 34.25" drive shaft at 13 degrees and moving one end up 3.5" changed the angle to 19 degrees and required me to have a 1" longer drive shaft. If your drive shaft is longer than mine and/or you have a DS angle that is less than 13 degrees from horizontal to start with, then you will not have as much extension of your slip yoke when you clock your t-case. If you give me the length of your current shaft and the angle it has, I can tell you how much it will extend when you clock your case up 3.5" or 4" or whatever you say that distance is.