Dana 30 Lockout Explosion - JeepForum.com

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post #1 of 9 Old 01-17-2010, 04:47 PM Thread Starter
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1984 CJ7 
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Dana 30 Lockout Explosion

Ok, so Im in the process of finishing the Dana 30 rebuild the old locking hubs died. I have done some light research in the threads but nothing stands out so. My question, what is the advantage of running this brand vs. that brand and so on. My options Warn, Superwinch, And MileMarker. If warn is way better then the rest I can fork up the money but if it is the name Im paying for I would rather not. What should I get?

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post #2 of 9 Old 01-17-2010, 05:09 PM Thread Starter
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post #3 of 9 Old 01-17-2010, 06:00 PM
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I have ran them all I have never broken a Warn or a MM, I have broken a Super Winch, sent both to the factory and they sent me 2 new ones. They used to have a lifetime Warranty, don't know if they still do.

My fleet:
86 CJ7 5.7 vortec. 4L60,D44's,OBA,Air tank bumpers w/D rings detroits,4.88,35" bfg, mt's 9500ti warn
86 CJ7 2.5 detroits, OBA 4.56, air tank bumpers, w/D rings,9500I warn 31x10.5x15, Trxus
86 CJ7 bone stock, w/factory 44 never seen the dirt soon to be for sale
87 Wrangler also never seen the dirt.
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post #4 of 9 Old 01-17-2010, 07:15 PM
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I waited a month to get a set of back-ordered Mile Markers, and the date got bumped a month later, twice. Canceled the order, and got Warns from the local Advance Auto.
No problem with the Warns. The Mile Markers may be good, but a three-Month delay? Heck, if I didn't cancel the order, I might still be waiting. Wasn't a problem with Quadratec. Both me and Quadratec were calling the MM manufacturer, trying to get a straight answer on why they couldn't supply the hubs. It was always "supply date is delayed".
If I nuke a hub, do I really want to wait for MM to get around to making hubs, before I can go wheeling again?

Also, there's a exception on the hub application, the store's computer says the hubs won't work with factory chrome wheels. Well, they do work with the factory chrome wheels, but not with the factory center cap. Solution, remove that cap. But don't try explaining it to the parts counter guy, some of these guys consider that parts computer a Bible, and insisted I must be wrong.
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post #5 of 9 Old 01-17-2010, 07:26 PM
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do you have 5 bolt or 6 bolt hubs now? if 5 bolt, find a D30 with warn 6 bolters on it from the factory and get the parts off of it. just did the swap from 5 to 6 bolt on mine. the 5 bolt are prone to exploding.

'86 CJ7-258-T5-D300 - D44/D30 4.56's w/ Truetracs F/R
and a few other doodads and geegaws
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post #6 of 9 Old 01-17-2010, 08:01 PM
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I think I've got the only exception. Mine were original (1986-2009), and I only replaced them because the front universals had started binding. When I was checking everything, there was cracks in the passenger side lockout.
My Jeep rarely, rarely goes offroad. It was a camper pull-behind most of it's life.
I doubt I'll ever rock-crawl in it, or do any serious bogging, so I kept the 5-bolt style.
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post #7 of 9 Old 01-18-2010, 06:39 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys i will probably go with the Warns. Not ordering til next friday so anymore info is welcome

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post #8 of 9 Old 01-18-2010, 06:50 PM
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I too needed to replace my Warns, back around New Years. With a little shopping, I found them for $130 w/free shipping. I didn't look too hard at other manufacturers, but I have a hard time believing that you can save THAT much money going with a different brand. This isn't a Ford/Chevy/Mopar argument, where loyalty is paramount. How often have you ever heard someone say "Those Warn lock-outs sure were junk..." I personally can't justify saving a little cash on something this critical. No, not critical for safety, critical for getting my skinny butt home!

"Damn Everything But The Circus..." e.e.c.
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post #9 of 9 Old 01-18-2010, 08:06 PM
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After I grenaded the stock aluminum ones, I replaced with a set of Superwinch ones, I've heard that there are two different variations of them, ones with the steel base and ones with aluminum base. Mine are the steel base. Usually the lockout comes loose and the movement causes them to grenade easily.

at the same time it would be worth while to change over to a stud and nut instead of the bolt system the factory used, a little research in google or here on the forum should yield the information you are looking for.

I've been running them for about a year with a Lock-Right in the axle with excellent results.

Bill H. - 1984 CJ-7
Now with Fiberglass!
My Rebuild thread
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