post #1 of Old 03-19-2013, 05:41 PM Thread Starter
bligon64
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1974 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Kennesaw
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Dana 30 gear ratio 3.3?

So i bought a front axle from some guy. I thought the gear ratio was 3.73, but i just counted and it turns out 43 on ring gear and 13 on spindle giving me a ratio of 3.3. I was going to just just swap out the axles because this one has disk brakes but it looks like that wont work. So the way i see it i now have 3 options.

1) move brakes and such to old axle and re-attach dana 30 with 3.73
2)switch out spindle and ring gear 3.73 and put in new axle
3)attach new front axle the way it is and find a new back axle with corresponding back axle

My jeep is not insured and hasen't been driven regularly for the past 23 years ( it hadent moved at all until 6 months ago), so im not too bent out of shape about letting it sit longer. It will not be driven on highway, more of just a cruising/ light off-roading vehicle. Im trying to fix things right the first time so i dont have to come back and do it again in a few years. So basically if it were you what would you do?

Thanks

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post #2 of Old 03-19-2013, 06:10 PM
Knucklehead
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Swap the brakes on your original axle over to disks. I did it years ago and it was very easy using a combination of stock parts. Do your research, have a good set of exploded diagrams for both axle types, and go at it. There are supple differences in the spindle and axle shaft bearings, seals, and small parts so keep all of it as you take both apart - mix and match to suit. Do both have 6 bolt flanges for the locking hubs? If so, make it easy and use everything from the newer axle from the steering knuckle out.

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post #3 of Old 03-19-2013, 06:27 PM Thread Starter
bligon64
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yeah they both have 6 bolt flange for the hubs.
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post #4 of Old 03-19-2013, 08:10 PM
jp360cj
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Its the new axle wide track?

If not, I would just switch the brakes/hubs. If it is and you want the extra width, then I would look for a rear WT with 3.31s or a really cheap one and regear both to match

77 CJ-7- AMC 360, Edelbrock cam, MC2100, Fenderwells, CJ T18/D20, Chevy D44/EB 9" rear, Trutrac f/r, 4.11, SOA, 1.25 lift shackles, 35x12.50 BFG KM2s, Shackle Reversal
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post #5 of Old 03-20-2013, 07:35 AM
CSP
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Definitely swap the brakes over. Gear ratio swaps are difficult, require specialized tools to do correctly, and expensive if you swap out all of the parts that should be swapped out (seals and bearings).
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post #6 of Old 03-20-2013, 08:52 AM
Pacfanweb
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CSP View Post
Definitely swap the brakes over. Gear ratio swaps are difficult, require specialized tools to do correctly, and expensive if you swap out all of the parts that should be swapped out (seals and bearings).
This. You could do the ring gear change yourself. Buy/rent/borrow all the tools, post here a ton of times to get advice how, have to run all over the place getting tools and such, etc....and at the end of the project, while you'd be proud you did it yourself, you'll wish you had just paid a pro to do it for you.

BTW, if you DO decide to change the gears/have them changed, definitely DON'T swap to 3.31's. Change the higher gear to 3.73.

I asked a ref if he could give me a technical foul for thinking bad things about him. He said, of course not. I said, well, I think you stink. And he gave me a technical. You can't trust em. -
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post #7 of Old 03-20-2013, 09:34 AM Thread Starter
bligon64
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So I looked again and the locking hub HSS a 5 bolt flange while my old one is a warn with 6 bolts. I'm assuming the warn is better, but can will I be able to use it?
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post #8 of Old 03-20-2013, 01:07 PM
CSP
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You can use it, but you will have to use the wheelbearing hubs from your existin axle. They may not be machined flat on the back side where the rotor mounts, so they may need to be machined.
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