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Dana 30 Bearing Replacement and...who knows what...
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10-13-2011, 07:44 PM
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#1
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Web Wheeler
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Nor-Cal, California
Posts: 1,381
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Dana 30 Bearing Replacement and...who knows what...
OK Guys,
I might have a few questions along the way, but here's where I am at so far.
The first step should have been to remove the allen bolts that hold the Warn face plate on, then remove the rest of the Warn Locking Hub.
Anyways, now I am waiting to receive my one specialty item to remove the nut...spindle nut socket.
edit... Disclaimer...this is by no means a how to but rather my step by step learning process...
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10-13-2011, 08:32 PM
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#2
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Web Wheeler
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: , Northern Arizona
Posts: 1,361
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I'm happy to see you ordered the socket. It's what's best for tightening it up for the bearing's sake. Chances are very good that you can loosen it without damaging it with a punch and hammer. (Notice I said LOOSENING it) More than likely it is not on there very tight at all.
The choice is ALWAYS YOURS! it's your Jeep afterall.
__________________
No, I do NOT play the bagpipes. My ancestors just killed people!
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10-14-2011, 07:12 AM
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#3
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: OIB, NC
Posts: 392
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Your other post mentions that you are going to replace the ball joints and u-joints. There is a special socket required to tighten the ring on the top ball joint and you should make sure you have a socket big enough to fit the top ball joint nut. I just tore down 3 dana 30s for my build and I had to go buy a socket for the top nut as my set only went to the next size down.
When it comes time to take the spindle off you will want a spindle socket and slide hammer. I thought I could do it without and after the first one I went and got the socket. Autozone loans both of them for free and it will make life easier. Since you are going to have the spindle off to replace everything else you will want to do the spindle bearings too. You can get them out with a pilot bushing puller (another free loaner from AZ if you don't have one). Put the new ones in the freezer overnight and they will shrink slightly making them easier to install.
If you replace the spindle stud nuts, I found the easiest/cheapest place to get them was AdvanceAutoparts. They are 3/8"-24 grade 8 prevaling torque lock nuts (Dorman P/N 247-012 is for the box of 25). Cost was $12.
Good Luck
Bob
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74 CJ6 - 304/TF-999/D300/D30/D44 - build in progress
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10-14-2011, 01:18 PM
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#4
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Web Wheeler
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Nor-Cal, California
Posts: 1,381
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Thanks Billy!
Really appreciate the heads up. I have the pilot bushing puller just need to get the slide hammer and I hope this slide hammer works on the rear as well.
Again thanks.
SC
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10-14-2011, 01:50 PM
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#5
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: OIB, NC
Posts: 392
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I have the Harbor Freight slide hammer kit and it works great. I ripped the last 1/2" of threads off of it pulling a stubborn spindle so I cut that part off, beveled it, and screwed the socket right back on to finish the job. I have used it to pull rear axles too. It came with the parts to use with a rear axle. The spindle socket AZ loaned me was brand new so I kept it instead of returning it to get my $35 deposit back. They cost the same if you bought one retail somewhere and it worked so good I decided to keep it.
Do you have a press to do the ball joints? They loan those too. I got the one from HF a long time ago and use it for ball joints, u-joints, and as a huge c-clamp once in a while. I think AZ also loans the ball joint spanner socket but if not here is a link to buy one.
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74 CJ6 - 304/TF-999/D300/D30/D44 - build in progress
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10-14-2011, 02:01 PM
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#6
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Invisible
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: The otherside of your monitor...
Posts: 5,171
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10-14-2011, 02:23 PM
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#7
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Web Wheeler
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Nor-Cal, California
Posts: 1,381
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Billy,
Great info... and MoC I saw your posts on that thread before and bookmarked it...Thanks!
Billy you can get the spindle socket here for $8.99... http://www.quadratec.com/products/98001_00.htm
Laslty, what do you guys use to degrease the parts here?
SC
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10-14-2011, 02:28 PM
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#8
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Invisible
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: The otherside of your monitor...
Posts: 5,171
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Brake cleaner and a wire brush works well. I think the advanced brands cleans better than the auto zone brand. If I have a large amount of stuff to clean I use a 5 gallon bucket with some gas in it. Keep in mind that both of these are bad go get on your hands.
Good luck!
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10-14-2011, 02:31 PM
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#9
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Web Wheeler
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Nor-Cal, California
Posts: 1,381
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MoC,
I know Brake Cleaner works great but will it harm the plastic parts connected to the Warn Face Plate?
SC
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10-14-2011, 02:36 PM
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#10
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Invisible
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: The otherside of your monitor...
Posts: 5,171
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Not sure, might just fade the color.
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10-14-2011, 02:40 PM
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#11
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: OIB, NC
Posts: 392
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ASteve
Billy,
Great info... and MoC I saw your posts on that thread before and bookmarked it...Thanks!
Billy you can get the spindle socket here for $8.99... http://www.quadratec.com/products/98001_00.htm
Laslty, what do you guys use to degrease the parts here?
SC
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That's the spindle nut socket. The AZ loaner I was referring to is a spindle puller socket. It screws onto the threads on the end of the spindle and then onto the threads of your slide hammer. It allows the easy removal of the spindle (which is a light press fit in the knuckle). AZ won't allow a link to it but here is another one like it.
__________________
74 CJ6 - 304/TF-999/D300/D30/D44 - build in progress
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10-14-2011, 02:43 PM
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#12
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: OIB, NC
Posts: 392
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ASteve
MoC,
I know Brake Cleaner works great but will it harm the plastic parts connected to the Warn Face Plate?
SC
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Plastic parts? What plastic parts do your lockouts have. Mine were all metal.
I would use gas or brake parts cleaner and a stiff toothbrush. Just wear some rubber gloves (kitchen ones seem to do well for this).
__________________
74 CJ6 - 304/TF-999/D300/D30/D44 - build in progress
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10-14-2011, 03:42 PM
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#13
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Web Wheeler
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: , Northern Arizona
Posts: 1,361
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I use good ol' solvent. Solvent is expensive thugh. Diesel will work but it is oily. Buy some nitrile gloves. I used to pooh pooh them until I used the first pair. Now I'm cinvinced!
__________________
No, I do NOT play the bagpipes. My ancestors just killed people!
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10-14-2011, 07:45 PM
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#14
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Web Wheeler
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Nor-Cal, California
Posts: 1,381
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Quote:
Originally Posted by billybob535
That's the spindle nut socket. The AZ loaner I was referring to is a spindle puller socket. It screws onto the threads on the end of the spindle and then onto the threads of your slide hammer. It allows the easy removal of the spindle (which is a light press fit in the knuckle). AZ won't allow a link to it but here is another one like it.
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Oh ... got it...
I was going to do like MoC and put my spindle nut back on and use a puller, but I like the tool you linked in.
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10-14-2011, 07:48 PM
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#15
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Web Wheeler
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Nor-Cal, California
Posts: 1,381
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Quote:
Originally Posted by billybob535
Plastic parts? What plastic parts do your lockouts have. Mine were all metal.
I would use gas or brake parts cleaner and a stiff toothbrush. Just wear some rubber gloves (kitchen ones seem to do well for this).
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You're right it's not plastic. It just looked like it when it was covered in grease...which brings me to another question. Jeephammer suggests some sort of synthetic high temp grease. What do you guys use for repacking the bearings and hubs?
Also, if my axels leak oil ... is this from the differential and is that seal easy to replace?
Again, thanks to you all.
SC
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