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Unread 01-22-2006, 02:15 PM   #1
dreski1
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Dana 20 Rebuild - Help

I began disassembling my Dana 20 Transfer Case and was stopped cold by a Alen Set Screw that will not budge. The set screw is on one of the shifter rods holding a shift fork in place. I cannot get that thing to move and it is preventing me from removing the front bearing cap. I am following Novak's instructions and I have committed myself to getting this thing done correctly.

I soaked the screw in PB Blaster last night and even put some heat to it today, but no luck.

Any help would be much appreciated.

Thanks,

Dave

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Unread 01-22-2006, 08:00 PM   #2
dreski1
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OK, this thread isn't getting the response I had hoped. So let me ask another question. The set screw is a 3/16" alen. How far can I twist the alen wrench before is fails? As I am getting after this thing, the wrench will twist about 90 degrees. It hasn't failed yet, but can I expect it soon or should I continue to twist until either the screw or wrench lets loose? I am not sure I have any other choices.

Thanks again,

Dave
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Unread 01-22-2006, 08:10 PM   #3
BESRK
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Are you using one of those 90 degree Allen wrenches? If so, toss it and go buy a set of Allen Head Sockets that you use with a 3/8" ratchet. That will allow you to put more uumphh into it.
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Unread 01-22-2006, 09:15 PM   #4
gumby
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use a torch to heat up the metal...disimular metal and galvanic action sometimes welds them together. also if you can hit them a few times to break up the bond between the two halfs
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1984 CJ-7 offroad special loves to get dirty and play rough. unlike the girls I meet
258 rebuilt with torquer cam/ weber 32/36 carb, HEI ignition ,headers 4 in lift AMC 20 detroit rear locked and trussed / tru trax front 4:56 Gears ,solid axles on 35's

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Unread 01-22-2006, 09:17 PM   #5
gumby
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use a torch to heat up the metal...disimular metal and galvanic action sometimes welds them together. also if you can hit them a few times to break up the bond between the two halfs.... just read the fact you used heat.. beat it like a redheaded stepchild. like a drum...like your johnson after prom
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1984 CJ-7 offroad special loves to get dirty and play rough. unlike the girls I meet
258 rebuilt with torquer cam/ weber 32/36 carb, HEI ignition ,headers 4 in lift AMC 20 detroit rear locked and trussed / tru trax front 4:56 Gears ,solid axles on 35's

"Two roads diverged in a wood and I - I took the one less traveled by, and that has made all the difference."-
Robert Frost
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Unread 01-22-2006, 09:51 PM   #6
dreski1
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The beating part I can do. I just don't want to go blind.

I tried heating this morning, but was a little hesitant to get too crazy with the heat because it is a gearbox that was recently full of oil. I was afraid that it might "flash". I will try the alan socket next and then the heat if that doesn't do it.

Thanks for the help.

Dave
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Unread 01-22-2006, 10:57 PM   #7
jeepdaddy2000
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Go buy an impact driver and a quality 3/8ths drive allen in the right size. Place the allen wrench in the bolt and give the driver a couple of smacks.
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Unread 01-22-2006, 11:04 PM   #8
mud4me
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I am very familiar with the internals of the Dana 20.

As others mentioned, you need a decent, professional socket for hex bolts.

Also, if using heat - do not heat the bolt! heat the object that holds the bolt.


Good luck. Its an easy rebuild once you get those hex bolts free.
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Unread 01-23-2006, 06:55 AM   #9
CJ51973
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The impact driver will do it. I have had one of these things for ever. It also shouldn't strip out using this. The last resort will be drilling it out.
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