[NExOBLIVISCARIS]

I swear that everytime i fix my jeep a new problem appears after a week...

Anyways, it seems that my transfer case has sprung a very slow leak, but that's not ok for me so im trying to gauge what i can do, it seems to be from the rear output shaft right behind the parking brake, i looked into it a little and it seems this was a common problem with the Dana 18. doesn't seem to be coming from anywhere else. also it looked like some people will remove the parking brake and put in two seals in its place?

how hard is it to replace the rear main seal? do i have to remove the transfer case to do this? do i have to disassemble the transfer case?

short version, what am i getting into?

[macscal]

Had a 71 ch-5 a few years back that had the same problem. From what I remember, you need to pull the e-brake assembly, and the yoke from the T-case. Once out, pry the old seal out and clean everything up. Replace it with a quality seal that has a "double-skirt". You will find that the yoke will have some minor scoring,but the double-skirt seal will seal up nicely. Additionally, this can be done with the T-case in place. Just drain the oil so it doesn't run out. Also, use some black rtv on the outside of the new seal to keep it from leaking. It wasn't difficult, took 2 hours or so. I was able to have local bearing shop match up the seal and they had the double skirt. GOOD LUCK! you can do it.

[macscal]

Dang spell check. I had a cj-5 , not a cj-5.

[NExOBLIVISCARIS]

so it is called the rear output shaft seal? and how do i remove a yoke?

[jeepdaddy2000]

You may want to insure the bearing preload is good. The front and rear output bearings are tapered. If there is a bit of wear, they can get sloppy, causing the yoke surface to come up off the seal lip. Just grab the yoke and try to move it up and down. If you have any play, you will want to take a couple of shims out till you get it right.
Removing the shims requires removing the rear output bearing retainer (which houses the seal) so replacing the seal might as well happen anyway (much easier with the retainer off). Just don't want you to replace the seal, only to have the new one leak soon after you're done.
Remember to take a close look at the yoke seal surface while you are in there. Use emory cloth to clean it up. If it is grooved beyond repair, sleeve kits are available to renew the surface.
In the end, they just leak. Whether drops or seepage, the design is almost eighty years old, the box itself is over forty years old and expecting it to stay dry, especially if you use it hard, may be a bit optimistic.

[80cj]

jeepdaddy,
I had a 64 CJ-6 with the 18 T/C years ago (wish I never sold that CJ-6). I seem to remember that there was a felt ring that went in between the seal and yoke. Also, I seem to vaguely remember folks installing 2 seals to help with the seepage problem. Ever hear of that?

[NExOBLIVISCARIS]

Originally Posted by 80cj

jeepdaddy,
I had a 64 CJ-6 with the 18 T/C years ago (wish I never sold that CJ-6). I seem to remember that there was a felt ring that went in between the seal and yoke. Also, I seem to vaguely remember folks installing 2 seals to help with the seepage problem. Ever hear of that?

i have heard of people doing this but i dont know how

[jeepdaddy2000]

Originally Posted by 80cj

jeepdaddy,
I had a 64 CJ-6 with the 18 T/C years ago (wish I never sold that CJ-6). I seem to remember that there was a felt ring that went in between the seal and yoke. Also, I seem to vaguely remember folks installing 2 seals to help with the seepage problem. Ever hear of that?

There is a felt ring.
I have not heard of doing the double seal thing, however, it may be possible. There is a lot of room in the retainer for the stock seal.
There should also be a rubber O ring behind the output shaft yoke nut, which helps seal the splines.
The issues I have seen the most are:
The bearing preload going, allowing the yoke to move vertically in the seal, allowing it to leak. No one ever seems to catch this one till well into the second or third seal replacement.
Debris in the seal causing damage.
The yoke seal surface grooved so badly a good seal simply isn't possible.
these only cover the input/output leaks. There are still the inspection cover gasket, intermediate shaft, PTO cover, as well as the shift shaft seals and the ever faithful trans/t case gasket (which I believe leaked from the factory).

[80cj]

I posted a link to this thread on the Early CJ-5 forum. Yes one of the guys has heard of using double seals but his comments also mirror what Jeepdaddy has posted.

http://www.earlycj5.net/forums/showt...put-seal-issue