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11-14-2006, 11:42 AM
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#1
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: El Dorado Hills, CA
Posts: 391
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Ok so I have 4.10's in my '85 CJ7. I have two rear axles in my possession that I can use for it. A Dana 44 from an '86. It has the 3.31's, a Warn full float kit with upgraded axles and Warn hubs. The AMC20 has also been upgraded to a full float Warn kit without hubs, a detroit and 4.10's. I'm leaning toward the AMC20 due to the locker and 4.10's but it's hard to pass up a good D44 with full float. Any opinions?
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11-14-2006, 11:50 AM
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#2
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Phoenix, Ariz.
Posts: 101
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truss the 20

Build a truss for the 20, and you will take care of the weakness of the AMC20. If you build it right it will be stronger than the 44
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YeloCJ, 360, 36's and Detroits f/r, T-18, Tera-low 20
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11-14-2006, 01:58 PM
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#3
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Chief of the brain police
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: WI
Posts: 3,243
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I would go with the amc 20 and build a truss also, the 20 has a bigger ring gear and with the one piece shafts is a good axle
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11-14-2006, 05:48 PM
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#4
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Washougal, WA
Posts: 25
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I might be interested in which ever you don't use
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85 CJ-7 Laredo 258 I-6, Hardtop
1" Shackle Lift
1" Body Lift
Sway Bar Discos
Aluminum Valve Cover
33x9.50 BFG M/T
Warn 9000xdi
New parts waiting for me to install:
narrowed Waggy Dana 44 frontend
Warn hubs, spindles, and outer axles
MORE shackle reversal and steering box bracket
4" springs
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11-14-2006, 07:09 PM
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#5
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: The Granite State
Posts: 2,662
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I am in the same situation. I have run the AMC20 built with a detroit and 1 piece axles and never had an issue. Ialso picked up a parts rig with a Dana 44. I am SOA, so I didn't feel like welding new perches or changing over to the buying a new locker and gears for the Dana 44. I have abused my AMC 20 and it has held, so I would go with the 20 over the 44. My 2 cents...
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85' CJ7 Laredo, 383 GM, Turbo 350, NP 203. SOA, 2" frame lift, 34" TSL swampers, Dana 30 open, AMC 20 w/ detroit locker, 4:10's, 1 Piece Mosers, 35" boggers to abuse when needed.
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11-14-2006, 08:43 PM
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#6
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Indianapolis
Posts: 1,276
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Correct me if I read this wrong, but the AMC 20 he is talking about has the full float (not the 1 piece) axles. AND the 20 has a detroit locker the 44 is open. This makes it a no-brainer...keep the 20, sell the 44, buy a truss, and never look back.
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11-15-2006, 03:53 AM
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#7
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 719
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trusses are bad
Tear the 20 apart and have it retubed. Sell the 44 to bank roll it. I did this with my amc20 and it's solid.
Its got a locker, warn full float and is now bombproof without the weak stock tubes. The new ones are about 3/8" wall thickness...BOMBPROOF.
If I bend those, I've got bigger problems than bent axle tubes.
jeepmor
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11-15-2006, 07:21 AM
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#8
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Phoenix, Ariz.
Posts: 101
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Pro 20
Sounds like we have a Pro AMC 20 group here.
__________________
YeloCJ, 360, 36's and Detroits f/r, T-18, Tera-low 20
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11-15-2006, 08:03 AM
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#9
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: El Dorado Hills, CA
Posts: 391
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Yeah guess I'll be selling the D44 soon. Thanks dudes.
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11-15-2006, 10:18 AM
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#10
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Bel Air, MD/Blacksburg, VA
Posts: 281
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Anyone got any pictures of trusses they have built for their 20's? Cant you also stitch weld the tubes to the housing for the same result?
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79 CJ5 304/T18/Dana 20/30/20(alloy's + locked)
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11-15-2006, 10:28 AM
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#11
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2004
Location: SoCal
Posts: 851
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I think you want to ALSO stitch weld the tubes to the housing.
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11-15-2006, 10:50 AM
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#12
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Greater Lake Tahoe Area
Posts: 1,004
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Yes you want to weld the tubes to the housing so they wont roll on you. I havent done it yet, but will very soon. I have a friend who had his turn on him. Messed things up pretty good $$$
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1985 cj 7. 360 V8, 35X12.50 BFG's sitting on Crager 15X8 rims, summer brothers axle rear, Yukon axles up front, lock rite lockers front and rear, 5" of lift, body armor, six point roll cage, 8000lb warn winch, 4.56 yukon gears front and rear, t-18, dana 300. And much more on the way.
www.therockgods.com
www.reno4x4.com
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11-16-2011, 02:03 PM
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#13
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Huntsville, Alabama
Posts: 34
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Love that all you guys are pro 20, What size tire were you planning on running and what were you planning on doing with the jeep?? Im in the same situation right now, have a chance two buy bolt very cheap and the 20 is welded but the 44 needs work to run it open
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11-16-2011, 02:13 PM
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#14
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Semi (in)competent
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Chalfont, Pennsylvania
Posts: 776
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by broach70
Love that all you guys are pro 20, What size tire were you planning on running and what were you planning on doing with the jeep?? Im in the same situation right now, have a chance two buy bolt very cheap and the 20 is welded but the 44 needs work to run it open
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Pro 20 5 years ago.
I do hope the OP isn't still trying to decide what axle to get.
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My slow efforts at rebuilding and restoring my 1987 Wrangler:
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/neverending-project-rebuilding-1987-wrangler-1454489/
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11-16-2011, 02:36 PM
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#15
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Huntsville, Alabama
Posts: 34
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haha yeah just looked at the date, feel kinda dumb, it was just kinda cool to see all the guys liking them
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