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#1 | |
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Registered User
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D300 Seals
Ok, now that I have my tub back it's about time I repair the 300 I pulled three months ago.
It has a bad seal on the front and I figure since the kit has new front / rear and main seals I'll go ahead and replace them all before I put the thing behind my tranny. Is there a walk thru posted somewhere? I no longer have the "advanced" search functions ![]() Thanks guys ! Sorry, moved pics to new location: ![]() ![]() ![]() Damn, just remembered I posted this a while ago: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/d300-rebuild-questions-481317/#post4400885 Well I'm off to skrew this up for the day.
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Last edited by Fatman; 02-17-2008 at 02:27 PM.. |
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#2 |
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WTF is that?
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You may recognize the guy who asked a similar Question a few months back
- Not having search sux!http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/d300-rebuild-questions-481317/?highlight=D300+Rebuild
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1984 CJ 7, SBC 350TBI, 700R4, D 300, AMC 20, D30, 35" Mickeys, 3.54 Gears, 4" susp. Lift, 2" body lift. AMC 20 Write Up In Progress - 4.56 gears, Aussie Rear Locker, Moser 1 Piece Axles Coming Soon - CV Shafts, Welded Tubes, trusses |
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#3 |
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Registered User
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Fatman,
I tried to send you a PM, but you are full. Send me one and I'll reply back with some info.
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1984 CJ7 Renegade - 258 4.2L, 5 Speed, 2" BDS YJ Springs with BDS CJ Conversion Kit, Weber 34 DGEC Carburetor, Aluminum Valve Cover, 73 Chevy Blower Motor, Bestop Supertop, Pro Comp XTreme Alloy 1079 Wheels, 33" x 12.5" x 15" BF Goodrich AT KO Tires, Holley Fuel Pressure Regulator and Gauge, Flowmaster 40 Series with Universal Catalytic Converter and 2 1/2" Pipe and still going..... [url]http://www.jeepforum.com/wiki/index.php/1984[/url] [B]There is a $10,000.00 CASH REWARD for anyone with information leading to the arrest and conviction of the person(s) that killed my cousin Blake Dickus and his stepmother Chynna Dickus on July 24th, 2006. Please contact the Franklin, Indiana Police Department at [url]http://www.franklin-in.gov/police/[/url] or contact America's Most Wanted at [url]http://www.amw.com/fugitives/case.cfm?id=51938[/url][/B] |
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#4 | ||
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Registered User
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Quote:
Quote:
Feel free to throw any links in here. I found this but it goes from box to dissasembly in one step. http://homepage.mac.com/rv6a/d300.html And I love novak's site... click on the rebuild procedure it takes you to a D-20. ![]() http://www.novak-adapt.com/catalog/dana_300_parts.htm Don't want to start unbolting things to have 100's of roller bearings falling all over the place.
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#5 |
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Registered User
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found a nice detail on the tear down:
http://www.jbconversions.com/pages/products/dana300/rear_out.html Got into this and after 10 minutes I was determined i was in over my head. On this subject my Chilton's ... sucks my Haynes ... really really sucks. and for the first time Moses Ludel pulls one out and has some good detail. Usually I find the Rebuilders Manual not worth the effort to put in the fireplace. So I quickly got my confidence up once the intermediate shaft freed itself. Worked on that one for too long. I actually thought I'd be able to pull the rear output, the front shifter / output and the main input with only a few bolts and away we go with new seals, pphhhhfffttt. 1 2 3 NOT ! so the obligatory Fatman pics: First you have to start off with the proper safety gear: ![]() Way too early, no need to loosen this for a while ![]() front input, the easiest thing to remove. ... why didn't this have a leak? ![]() this is my aunt Elonore: ![]() there is a flux capacitor in there somewhere: ![]() I could say something about the joys of birth but i digress: ![]() Gears look ok, i guess: ![]() one of those things: ![]() extra parts: ![]() Going to need a 2 arm pulller to get the rear housing off of the bearing: ![]()
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#6 |
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GROUND POUNDER
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Dave,
I just went thru my 300 a couple weeks back.. I didn't use a puller for anything.. just a soft hammer. That output shaft came out pretty easy.. it wasn't a "tight" press fit.
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'80 CJ5 w/AMC360, T176, D44 w/Detroit 3.73s, RE 4" YJ lift and 35s.. Lower 2 Guardrail Down Schoolbus Slickrock Tellico Save Crozet More Crozet |
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#7 |
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Registered User
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Amigo, I bang and I bang, she no break loose.. ?
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#8 |
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Senior Member
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With all that you have done so far, the 300 should be a cake walk.
I am in the process of putting mine back together. It has been an adventure, but it is the first time for me and has definitely been easier than the T177 rebuild. I had to use a puller or press for all the bearings and most of the aluminum casings. And the snap ring, I hate snap rings. Besrk, how much power did you put behind that soft hammer? If you replace all the bearings, be careful of that little tube like bearing in the flux capacitor. DON"T press it in too far. It doesn't stop until it has gone too far. And with all the bells and whistles you have taken the time and had the foresight to do, now would be a good time to drill and tap some holes for a sight tube. And 300's look good in yellow too! http://picasaweb.google.com/85YellowCJ7/Dana300/photo?authkey=FCDi_uh5gjs#5141805032442520354 |
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#9 |
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GROUND POUNDER
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I used a 3lb bronze headed hammer.. didn't feel like I hit it too hard.. I'd only had a couple beers.
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'80 CJ5 w/AMC360, T176, D44 w/Detroit 3.73s, RE 4" YJ lift and 35s.. Lower 2 Guardrail Down Schoolbus Slickrock Tellico Save Crozet More Crozet |
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#10 |
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Bicentennial Nickel
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Now that I see the picture you are referring to, mine was kind of suctioned on there. The bearing is/was stuck to the race on the underside of that with gear oil. It created somewhat of a vaccuum effect with the oil seal on the outside. I just twisted and pulled and it came off.
Anyway, did you get your puller and try to get it off? cb |
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#11 |
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Senior Member
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This is the bearing that is holding the cover on.
The reason you need a puller. http://picasaweb.google.com/85YellowCJ7/Dana300/photo?authkey=FCDi_uh5gjs#5168915147377588370 When I put it back together, the only way I could get the bearing pressed on was to use the yoke to press it on. Don't press the seal in before you put the bearing in its race, then press the seal on, then put whatever sealant you are using on the casing, set the casing on, then use the yoke to seat the bearing. I used 3 headless bolts to line it up. |
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#12 |
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Registered User
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Got the rear housing off a bit ago.
Eric came over with a puller and we got nowhere. he talked me into carrying it over and setting it in my press. 30 seconds later we were done. Felt like an idiot asking him to drive over just to remind me I have a press for this kinda stuff. So, anyone have an extra seal for the intermediate shaft? Mine looks a lil hagered, didn't get a new one in my seal kit. ?
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Last edited by Fatman; 03-01-2008 at 07:13 AM.. |
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#13 |
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WTF is that?
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Somebody cancel the Amber Alert, he's back!
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1984 CJ 7, SBC 350TBI, 700R4, D 300, AMC 20, D30, 35" Mickeys, 3.54 Gears, 4" susp. Lift, 2" body lift. AMC 20 Write Up In Progress - 4.56 gears, Aussie Rear Locker, Moser 1 Piece Axles Coming Soon - CV Shafts, Welded Tubes, trusses |
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#14 |
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Registered User
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Welcome back!! You're part of the reason I am hooked and want to do a build!! As far as the search goes... well that has been messed up since they have upgraded the forums.. It's not just you. It's been mentioned in the "if you're having problems with the forum" thread without any response or fixes.. ![]() Jamie
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1984 CJ7 258 CID, Carter 2 bbl carb, T-5 trans, AMC 20 rear |
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#15 |
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Senior Member
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Couldn't find a shaft seal either, called Teraflex Plus. Couple of bucks and had them put in an envelope (97 cents postage) got it in 3 days. Might get a speedo O-ring at the same time. Both - inner and outer.
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