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post #1 of 14 Old 11-11-2005, 03:09 PM Thread Starter
jeepe
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Could this be true

I took my newly rebuilt 86 CJ7, that I just bought, to the mechanic today for a look over. The guy is telling me I need new driveshafts for the front and rear. He said they have the potential to fly right off the Jeep. He thinks they are too short. The jeep is lifted by a 3 inch suspension lift and a 2 inch body lift. What is normally done to the driveshafts when you throw a 3 inch lift on?? The jeep drives fine to me...there is some vibration coming from underneath though. Could this be true that I would need new driveshafts? What would you expect to spend on two new shafts?? The guy is working up some numbers for me as we speak and I want to make sure that I am not getting shafted. Is this super expensive?? He owns a machine shop so he would be building the shafts himself. Please let me know what you think. Thanks.

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post #2 of 14 Old 11-11-2005, 03:28 PM
cyclic17
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I have an '81 CJ7 that I have a 4" lift (no body lift) and I didn't change my drivelines. I did install the TCase lowering shims, and have vibes from 45-50mph.
Other than that, no problems.

*'81.5 CJ7, D300, T-5, 258ci, 4" BDS lift, 33 's on 15x10 Bajas, Narrowed Waggy D44 Front, Scout D44 rear w/ARB locker, Not-so-Painless Wiring Harness, Warn 8274, Borla Headers, MC2100 carb, Shrockworks sliders, KC's, Full cage

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post #3 of 14 Old 11-11-2005, 03:36 PM
CJ5_Fan
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I would think a total of 5" of lift could cause some things to be cluggy such as steering column shaft length.

Even though the 2" body lift is fairly neutral to the drivetrain angles, since you have a 3" lift, and the fact you are getting vibrations, I would still want someone who is knowledgeable on the geometry of the steering and suspension to look at it as a whole - taking into account the shackles, the springs and the body discs, axel caster, U-Joint type, and how they all effect each other - before I started hi-balling down the freeway with it....

Better safe than sorry.
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post #4 of 14 Old 11-11-2005, 03:41 PM
BigYellaJeep
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My rear Drive Shaft has flown off twice...but I think both were caused from inproperly tightened ubolt screws.

I have a 4" lift on my '86 CJ-7. As for as vibrations, well, lol, I think I had those even WITHOUT a lift and tires.

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post #5 of 14 Old 11-11-2005, 03:56 PM
dawgates
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You're 2" body lift doesn't have anything to do with changing the driveshaft length, but your suspension lift does. 3", 4" lift shouldn't be a problem.
I might think you could use some u-joints if anything. Do you have any angle wedges between your rear axle and springs? If not, some 2 degree steel wedges would help take some of the vibs out. The pinion yoke of the rear axle should be pointing to the rear yoke of the transfer case.
Although the drive shaft slip shaft could be wore out too.
A complete driveshaft cost me $350. each.

80' CJ7, 360 Howell Injected, 3" single exhaust, NP435 4spd, Dana 300 AA clocking ring, Currie twin stick, Tera-Low 4 -1 kit, Dana 44 front, cut 10" wider to 63", 4.10 gears, ARB, Yukon axles and Super H/D u-joints, Currie Dana 44 rear, cut wider to 60 1/2", 4.10 gears, ARB 35 spline, Currie 35 spline axle shafts, 2 1/2" x 11" Ford drum brakes, CJ-SOA conversion, Tom Woods F & R drive shafts, Warn 9500i winch, 6 point cage, Homemade F&R bumpers and tire carrier, 1" body, Pro Comp supension Kit, 12.5x35x15 BFG's, 15x10 OMF beadlocks, Body armor, OBA.
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post #6 of 14 Old 11-11-2005, 07:09 PM
John Strenk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dawgates
...... The pinion yoke of the rear axle should be pointing to the rear yoke of the transfer case.
Although the drive shaft slip shaft could be wore out too.
A complete driveshaft cost me $350. each.
This is not true unless he has a double cardan on the drive shafts. On a stock driveshaft , the angle on the yokes should be the same relative to the driveshaft.

I had two new drive shafts made up for mine. $75.00 to lengthen the front one and the rear slip yoke was bad and it cost me $195.00. Basically a new drive shaft with my ends. I had them done at a local drive shaft shop. Check around for prices.
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post #7 of 14 Old 11-11-2005, 07:19 PM
John N
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Call Tom Woods driveshafts, the phone number is in any 4x4 magazine. Great product and will give a price basis for comparison. They'll tell you how to measure.

'81 Scrambler w/ FI 360 AMC, 33x12.50 BFG M/T's, 5" of lift, ARB'd Dana 44's F & R, Dana 300 clocked & twin sticked w/4:1, Warn XD9000i, etc...
2002 Grand Cherokee Limited, 2008 Overland Grand Cherokee, a 1976 CJ-7 in pieces and 3 more off-brand 4x4s...............
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post #8 of 14 Old 11-11-2005, 08:00 PM
cjbilt4me
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Non CV shafts(2) cost about $400-$500 around here.
It is common for a lift kit to make the stock shafts short.

85 CJ7,9"HPC/ Detroit,44 spooled,SOA,36 IROCS,Redneck Ram,300/twin stick/Tera Low,MPFI,Premier Welder,Warn 9000I
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post #9 of 14 Old 11-16-2005, 09:28 AM Thread Starter
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I finally got prices...$295 for each drive shaft. I feel that is fair. The Jeep is with a mechanic I know nothing about because I just bought the Jeep and am looking to establish a relationship with someone who knows them well. He owns a machine shop and does a ton of engine conversions and drive line work for the "hot rod" type. He's building the shafts himself and replacing the slip yokes as well as all the u-joints. Of course he found other things he wasn't happy with...fuel lines, radiator hoses, the way the exhaust is mounted, etc.. I told him to go to town on it so we'll see what happens. Sounds like a good deal right?? Although I will be charged approx. $600 in labor!! I guess thats what you get living in Long Island!
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post #10 of 14 Old 11-16-2005, 03:30 PM
John Strenk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepe
I finally got prices...$295 for each drive shaft. I feel that is fair. The Jeep is with a mechanic I know nothing about because I just bought the Jeep and am looking to establish a relationship with someone who knows them well. He owns a machine shop and does a ton of engine conversions and drive line work for the "hot rod" type. He's building the shafts himself and replacing the slip yokes as well as all the u-joints. Of course he found other things he wasn't happy with...fuel lines, radiator hoses, the way the exhaust is mounted, etc.. I told him to go to town on it so we'll see what happens. Sounds like a good deal right?? Although I will be charged approx. $600 in labor!! I guess thats what you get living in Long Island!

Seems a little high but you are on Long Island... Does it include installing the drive shafts and all? Its never fun replacing all the fuel lines. Have to wait to see how he does.
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post #11 of 14 Old 11-17-2005, 08:36 AM Thread Starter
jeepe
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When all is said and done - i will be out of there for no less than $1300. The $1300 includes the driveshafts and installation, replacing all fuel lines and radiator hoses, replacing shackles all the way around with Daystars, and putting on new exterior door handles. Believe me...I am buying the CJ books soon as some of these things I could have easily done myself
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post #12 of 14 Old 11-17-2005, 11:20 AM
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Put the driveshafts in yourself....
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post #13 of 14 Old 11-17-2005, 08:49 PM
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Yep, 8 screws and some locktight for the 2 driveshafts! Of course, if it's already in his shop and you're current driveshafts are shot, then you'll have a tough time getting it home to DIY.

You "could" have it towed home....but I'm sure that's expensive in LI as well!!

Welcome to our madness!

Buy the Haynes and Chilton books. If you don't have tons of tools, here's my advise: If it requires air tools or welding equipment, I farm it out - or at the least have a good friend who has the tools to borrow.....


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post #14 of 14 Old 11-18-2005, 02:24 PM
John C
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Ohhh...ALLWAYS BELIEVE WHAT A MECHANIC YOU DON"T KNOW TELLS YOU!!! After all they got schoolin' to be able to dent'ify them problems like dat! You are doing the right thing coming on to a site like this and asking Q's and it seems you got some fair answers. Look for some local 4x4 shops and get to know the guys there. People that lift and deal with lifts are your "SAFEST" bet. 3-4 inches should not be a problem,body lift has nothing to do with driveline angles. The only way you will "throw your driveshafts out of your jeep" is if a U-joint fails or you are really flexing it out and cause a slip joint to seperate. CV style shaft: point the axle pinion at the T-case Standard style shaft: have the axle parallel to the T-case.

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