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Unread 11-28-2012, 11:57 AM   #1
margotta78
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Cost for rebuilt Dana 300

Ok went through about ten pages worth of links. Nothing about build cost of a Dana 300. I have a CJ7 1980 with an auto trans. Someone is working on it for me and said the transfer case is bad. He said he can get me one for $500. Not sure how good that one is though. So my question is how much is a Dana 300 rebuild going to run? Trans rebuilds are easy to price. Any advice would be awesome. I need to let him know what to do with my CJ. If there any other Transfer cases that might be a direct swap or whatever. Thanks

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Unread 11-28-2012, 12:24 PM   #2
wm69
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Where in TN are you? I usually see Dana 300's go for around $200 in the Memphis/ East Arkansas area. What exactly is wrong with it? Other than a wreck where the impact cracked the case I've never seen a "bad" Dana 300. I'd try to find a used one around you , replace the ouput seals and bottom cover seal, and put it in.

If you have an '80 you have the one year weird "short output" Dana 300 transfer case. 81-86 will bolt in, but you might need a longer driveshaft for the rear (or you might get by with the stock driveshaft).
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Unread 11-28-2012, 12:29 PM   #3
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You are likely to have a Dana 300 short ( only in 1980 CJ). I have been looking for a d300 short here in Texas and cannot find one. He needs to swap the D300 short for a D300 short. If he uses. D300 long (found in 81 and above CJ's), your rear driveshaft will need to be shortened. I had my D20 rebuilt and it cost me $700 or so. That is him taking my CJ and doing all the work. if you do purchas another transfer case and not rebuild yours PM me and I will buy yours.
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Unread 11-28-2012, 01:04 PM   #4
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I have had 2 short shaft 300's that I have sold over the last 6 months. Sold them for $150 each after sitting on Craigslist for 3 months or so. $500 is way 2 high.

As far as the rebuild goes 500-600 is the going rate around here for a bench rebuild, more if you being it installed in the jeep.

They are a pretty easy rebuild and if you know what you are doing can be done in 3 hours start to finish.
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Unread 11-28-2012, 04:00 PM   #5
lucdog
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wm69
Where in TN are you? I usually see Dana 300's go for around $200 in the Memphis/ East Arkansas area. What exactly is wrong with it? Other than a wreck where the impact cracked the case I've never seen a "bad" Dana 300. I'd try to find a used one around you , replace the ouput seals and bottom cover seal, and put it in.

If you have an '80 you have the one year weird "short output" Dana 300 transfer case. 81-86 will bolt in, but you might need a longer driveshaft for the rear (or you might get by with the stock driveshaft).
I'm thinking ran without oil could be a major problem.
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Unread 11-28-2012, 08:16 PM   #6
margotta78
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That was some good information guys. I looked around and yes $550-$600 is the going price online for a reman. After seeing that $500 for a used is way to high. I did however find a few used for about $325. They are supposed to be lower miles. You know how that goes. I guess I need to call the dealer tomorrow and ask it is for a 80' CJ7 and not a 81-86. Would rather not spend more money. I live in Northeast TN. Not sure what all is wrong with the Tcase. Will find out tomorrow because I am going to see it. No telling what caused it. I would say that the oil running low was it. Ok so here is the next question. I can buy a reman for about $600 or a used in "good" condition for $350. Which one would you guys take? I am sure you all have been down this road before lol. Thank you all for responding so quick.
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Unread 11-28-2012, 09:08 PM   #7
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Unread 11-29-2012, 08:28 AM   #8
wm69
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The 81-86 will be a lot more common, and I believe is considered stronger.

http://www.4x4groupbuy.com/store/adv...rt-p-4758.html

If it were me, I'd get a long tail used unit and put it in. I guess your Jeep is down so you need to find one quickly, but again, around here they're usually about $200.

1980 CJ-7 with auto takes a 20 3/4" driveshaft.
81-86 CJ-7 with auto takes a 19.80" driveshaft (both measurements are collapsed)

Since you're already running a 4" lift, you have a modified driveshaft that will probably be close enough to work with the longer output shaft.
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Unread 11-29-2012, 12:29 PM   #9
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Went and looked at it today. Really it looked pretty good overall. Just some wear in one place that was causing it to slip. Plus the shaft was locked up. Most of the other parts looked really good though.
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Unread 11-29-2012, 12:43 PM   #10
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oh and no I never did change my drive shaft. I read through post after post and people said it was not a huge deal. If I am wrong please correct me lol. While it is off I can take him one that would work better. Just running the stock 80 CJ7 drive shaft.
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Unread 11-29-2012, 01:10 PM   #11
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Well if you lift your Jeep you normally go to a longer driveshaft, and if you use a long tail Dana 300 vs a short, then you would need a shorter driveshaft, so I would find a long Dana 300 and you should be right in the middle/ just right with your driveshaft!
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Unread 11-29-2012, 02:43 PM   #12
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Sweet. I called the mechanic to check on something. The lift I put on was a rough country lift that came with metal shims to change to axle angle. He looked and said I installed them correctly. Ok so its a 4" lift with shims. Now I know from reading through different posts that those shims are just to put me within a close range. Every one is slightly different. So with the shims in do you think I should do the long Dana 300 and use my current driveshaft? I put the lift on myself about three years ago so I could not remember if I even did it correct lol.. That was my first attempt at doing something like that. Any other suggestions while he has it would be good. I think I will go buy a good u joint from one of the parts stores.
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Unread 11-29-2012, 02:56 PM   #13
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Go to Tom Woods site and there are instructions on how to measure your driveshaft to be sure it will work, but I'm guessing it will. YOU DO NEED TO MEASURE IT!

If you're in a hurry it puts you at a disadvantage, but scour craiglist and ebay for transfer cases. You could probably use a long OR short shaft, whichever you find first at a good price. If you gotta get a reman it's a toss up as well.
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Unread 11-29-2012, 07:16 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by margotta78 View Post
Went and looked at it today. Really it looked pretty good overall. Just some wear in one place that was causing it to slip. Plus the shaft was locked up. Most of the other parts looked really good though.
It's a gear driven tcase. In order for it to "slip" it would have to have teeth missing from the gears. And what shaft is locked up? I'd try and get a someone who knows jeeps to have a look....not saying your mechanic doesn't know what he's doing, but if it will save you $350 or more it's worth getting a second opinion.
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Unread 11-30-2012, 06:15 PM   #15
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Well he said it was locked up. Would not disengage from 4x4. I ordered the t-case with long output shaft today.
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