Alright jeephammer, so can I use the starter relay as the switched power source for the HEI?
Or your saying I can use that relay to turn on a dedicated power relay for just the HEI?
I'm NOT telling you want to do,
But if it were me, when I do these HEI conversions or use an HEI distributor in a customers engine,
I DEDICATE a power wire to the HEI, and use a RELAY to switch that dedicated power supply to the HEI.
And its looks like it would be difficult to run a 10-gauge wire straight into the HEI as it is using a 14-gauge soldered to a small connector clipping into the unit. I suppose I could cut this off and solder the 10-gauge into instead.
You can buy new terminals that go in that plastic connector off the rack at NAPA.
They cost about $2 a package.
There is a push tab on the metal part of the connector digging into the plastic housing,
Once that tab is pushed down, the wire and terminal will pull out of the plastic connector housing,
You crimp a new terminal on the wire you want to use, and push that new terminal right back into the plastic connector housing, and you are up and running with a larger gauge wire with a VERY clean looking connector.
This is something that ALL NEW GUYS to electronics should learn...
The 'Loose Wire' connectors, like the ones for your dimmer switch, head light switch, brake light switch, head lights, fire wall bulk head connector, ect.
All have separate terminals inserted into a plastic housing.
These can be disassembled with a little inexpensive tool, and you can put in new wire or new terminal ends and freshen up your wiring without tearing the entire harness out...
Cracked insulation or frayed, melted wiring you want to replace without ripping out the entire harness?
We all have it,
The terminals are CHEAP, easy to install on NEW wire, and look 'Factory' when you are done.
There are limits,
Since there are MOLDED TERMINALS on your vehicle also, like the ignition plugs for the stock distributor, module, ect.
These are molded right on the wire, and you can't replace the terminals in them.
But about everything else is 'Open' or 'Composite' terminals you can replace.
ANY TIME YOU HAVE A CONNECTOR APART, SHOOT SOME DIELECTRIC GREASE IN IT!
This keeps corrosion down and helps you keep your connections CONNECTED like they are supposed to be!
If I understand correctly I can use the factory red 10-gauge power wire, which RIGHT NOW has a 14-gauge non-resistor wire connected to it, then to the HEI.
Which I would then instead run that 14-gauge to turn on the power relay I would get. Then the power relay would draw it power directly from the battery, and have it directly grounded to the battery as well?
As near as I can tell from your description, YES. That's correct.
The OLD ignition wires switch the relay 'ON' and 'OFF'.
And the relay has a DEDICATED CLEAN SUPPLY, passing that on to the HEI.
Just a side thought, I wonder if car audio "capacitors" that are used to store energy for when a subwoofer hits harder than the AMP can supply would be an effective way to store energy for the HEI as the coil discharges and recharges?
The ones sold in the audio stores are not the correct size/type.
That's EXACTLY what a CDI module does, Capacitive Discharges around 400 volts to the ignition coil...
Doesn't screw around with 12-14 volts and simply smoothing out the current to the coil/module like a audio capacitor would...
Also any diagrams you could post you might have on hand? Im an electrical noob!
Yup, just hadn't got to them yet...
Wanted to explain the DON'T before I got to relays and wiring!
No one reads posts with pictures in them, so you have to get the WORDS in before pictures or you will get 10,000 questions that were already explained and never read...