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Unread 09-13-2013, 06:11 AM   #16
82JeepCJ7
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1982 CJ7 
 
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Got mine for free when they shut down our company. Someone "forgot" to pack it up when they were sending all our tools back to our other location....

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Unread 09-15-2013, 01:25 AM   #17
briancj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Neuner-9R View Post
Are you sure you have the right water pump? There are clockwise and counter-clockwise versions depending on your belt type.


*edit* - I have a cold and pumped full of Dayquil so I 'bettered' my wording.
yes I did, mine is the counter-clockwise version, however, whoever replaced it last used the clockwise version
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Unread 09-15-2013, 01:27 AM   #18
briancj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by walkerhoundvm View Post
1. Radiator recore

2. Heater core replacement. You could temporarily bypass this by rerouting your hoses, then see if your engine still gets hot. If it does - your radiator needs to be recored. If it doesn't, the problem mostly is a result of poor circulation through your heater core.

To me, it sounds like it's both, but do some research on the points above.
Thanks, I was wondering about the heater core as well since I'm not getting any heat out of the heater.
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Unread 09-15-2013, 01:39 AM   #19
briancj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WindKnot View Post
Stop throwing money away and guessing. Changing the fan won't fix the problem. At best it's only going to treat the symptoms.

You need to establish whether or not you're getting circulation through both the block and the radiator. Rodding your existing radiator will most likely give you better results than replacing it with a new aluminum one. But it won't do anything if water can't circulate through the block. You might also want to verify that the bottom radiator hose is still in good shape. When they start to go bad they will collapse when running and stop the circulation. Most guys prefer a hose with a spring in it to prevent collapsing. Hose manufacturers say the new hoses won't do that though, even without a spring.

If your Jeep is typical, it had the four bladed fan with no fan clutch. That set up works perfectly fine to cool your engine. Even here in Arizona it doesn't overheat if it's working like it's supposed to. The 258 is a very simple machine and there's no reason to make it more complicated than it is.

That engine also tends to run warm. It's supposed to have a 195° thermostat in it. As others have mentioned, don't trust the TEMP gauge, verify it another way.
I changed the fan because the old one was beat to hell and i already had the front end off, but it was a six blade with no clutch. The bottom hose does have a spring and is in good shape and I changed out the thermostate for a180 degree. Do you know how to evaluate block and radiator circulation?
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Unread 09-15-2013, 01:47 AM   #20
briancj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeePete View Post
Agree with the above...plus->

Another issue could be gunked up water passages in the motor.

How long have you had it and do you know (from the PO) if it ever sat for a long time?

Did you flush it when you were changing out pieces parts?
I've only had it for a couple of months, and the PO had it non-opt for 2 years but said he started and ran it "regularly". I did flush the system after I changed the parts but it didn't help.
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Unread 09-15-2013, 01:59 AM   #21
briancj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt1981CJ7 View Post
Damn, that's a good price!! I think I paid about $70 for mine at NAPA.

Hey Brian, have you figured anything out, yet?

Matt
Not yet, I've had to work the past few days. But I think I'm going to get that infrared thermometer, and check my radiator flow. Does anyone Know a cheap way to check block and heater core circulation?
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Unread 09-15-2013, 06:54 AM   #22
walkerhoundvm
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You've already done it: Are the temperatures of the top hose, heater core hoses, and manifold hoses hot to the touch and reasonably about the same temperature? If no, either your radiator or heater core is obstructing flow.
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Unread 09-15-2013, 09:49 AM   #23
LumpyGrits
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Unread 09-15-2013, 09:50 AM   #24
LumpyGrits
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Quote:
Originally Posted by briancj View Post
yes I did, mine is the counter-clockwise version, however, whoever replaced it last used the clockwise version
SO----What belt set up do you have?
LG
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Unread 09-17-2013, 03:05 PM   #25
briancj
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just ordered it, thanks guys!! I'll keep you posted
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Unread 10-09-2013, 03:39 PM   #26
briancj
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walkerhoundvm

The top hose going to the radiator gets hot to the touch. The hose coming off of the thermostat housing to the heater core gets slightly hotter than the hose coming of the manifold to the heater core, but neither are unbearably hot. I did the radiator test that someone metioned earlier and had good flow coming out of the radiator.
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Unread 10-09-2013, 03:46 PM   #27
briancj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by walkerhoundvm View Post
You've already done it: Are the temperatures of the top hose, heater core hoses, and manifold hoses hot to the touch and reasonably about the same temperature? If no, either your radiator or heater core is obstructing flow.
Quote:
Originally Posted by LumpyGrits View Post
SO----What belt set up do you have?
LG
I have a serpentine belt, the fan and water pump spin counter clockwise as your facing the front of the engine. One thing I'm not sure about, and maybe you can help me with this, is the impelleron the back side of the water pump supposed to "scoop" water into the pump, or Push water into the block?
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Unread 10-09-2013, 05:09 PM   #28
82JeepCJ7
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Think of it this way. The water is in the radiator. Water flows from the radiator via the lower radiator hose into the block. Therefor the pump should be pushing water into the engine.
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