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Unread 05-02-2013, 07:01 PM   #1
offroadz
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Coolant flush with Cascade

Did a search on here and didn't see really anything on it.

Quote from another site forum.
"cascade dishwasher soap(powder) i work at an equpment dealership, its actually the manufacturer recommended procedure for removing oil from cooling systems. the rule of thumb we go by is run it till the thermostat opens + 30 minutes, then drain it out hot. drain the block too, rinse with water till its clear. usually by the 3rd flush its clean."

If this is a alternative than Prestone cleaner and cheaper, would there be anything to be concerned with? Just wasn't sure specifically on our jeeps about the procedure.

Thanks!

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Unread 05-02-2013, 07:34 PM   #2
Ken4444
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It would seem to make sense. Dishwasher soap is designed to break down oil, any residue left behind would be safe for human consumption (for what that's worth), and because it's designed to be used daily in a wet plastic and metal environment (the dishwasher), it shouldn't be damaging to the cooling system. The only unknown is how it reacts with propylene glycol.
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Unread 05-02-2013, 07:48 PM   #3
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I've heard to use it as well. It's supposed to break down the calcium in hard water pretty well. I wound up skipping it because we chose to have the radiator rodded instead.

Anxious to hear results.
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Unread 05-02-2013, 08:05 PM   #4
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It's in the Saturn S series FSM I believe. Either way its all over the SaturnFans Forum.
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Unread 05-02-2013, 08:15 PM   #5
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I learned two weird things in this thread. 1 I can run dishwasher detergent in my jeep and 2

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Unread 05-02-2013, 08:16 PM   #6
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I learned two weird things in this thread. 1 I can run dishwasher detergent in my jeep and 2nd there's a Saturn fans forum.

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Unread 05-02-2013, 10:50 PM   #7
82JeepCJ7
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I've flushed my system out, drained it, then filled the cooling system with CLR (Calcium Lime Rust) remover. Run it for a bit (cycle the thermostat). Shut down and let cool. Do it about 3 times. Then pull the lower radiator hose and drain the system (pull radiator cap to make it flow faster).

You will be amazed at what comes out. Some will look like wet bread. I usually stick the hose in the top of the radiator and flush it out good. Reconnect the lower radiator hose, fill and start the motor. I take off the upper hose and let it point downward. I keep the hose in the radiator to keep it full as the motor runs and cycles. After flushing out the system a few times, drain all of the water out, hook up the upper hose, and fill with 50/50 mix. Done and the system is clean.
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Unread 05-03-2013, 10:06 PM   #8
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Update...

Flushed just the radiator, 2 cups of cascade gel, tap water, and ran for 20 mins.

5* cooler from my "gauge" readings last night. I know, not entirely too accurate but for me, this is huge and what keeps me going on this thing, PROGRESS!!

I have 2 more rad flushes with the Cascade, then I move onto flushing out the t-stat opening, Cascade the system, flush out the pump opening, Cascade the system, flush both openings and rinse out to get the Cascade out.
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Unread 05-04-2013, 12:01 AM   #9
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I had an 05 F350 6.0 diesel that was having overheating problems. The dealership flush the cooling system with Spic and Span household clener. They said they were finding that sometimes foundry sand from the castings had not been completely cleaned out of the blocks and was plugging the oil and intercooler.
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Unread 05-04-2013, 05:38 AM   #10
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IMO, id be really cautious with "cleansing" the cooling system. there shouldent be excessive oil in the system and if there were trace amounts it wouldent effect cooling. the hard water deposits take time to form and are the result of not using distilled water in the glycol solution. on an old system, ie freeze plugs, head gasket, intake gasket, heater core can all potentially start leaking from the removal of the deposits. if the radiator is plugged then remove it/ isolate it and do your flushing. IMO, the block is what it is. dont flush it with anything other than water and purge it with distilled water prior to adding the "correct" coolant solution. ps, im not trying to rain on your enthusiasm, just speaking from experience.
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Unread 05-04-2013, 06:13 AM   #11
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^ While I agree you may break up something you may have not wanted to I would rather have it break or leak while I was flushing at the house instead of popping off while out wheeling somewhere.
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Unread 05-04-2013, 06:32 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 82JeepCJ7 View Post
I've flushed my system out, drained it, then filled the cooling system with CLR (Calcium Lime Rust) remover. Run it for a bit (cycle the thermostat). Shut down and let cool. Do it about 3 times. Then pull the lower radiator hose and drain the system (pull radiator cap to make it flow faster).

You will be amazed at what comes out. Some will look like wet bread. I usually stick the hose in the top of the radiator and flush it out good. Reconnect the lower radiator hose, fill and start the motor. I take off the upper hose and let it point downward. I keep the hose in the radiator to keep it full as the motor runs and cycles. After flushing out the system a few times, drain all of the water out, hook up the upper hose, and fill with 50/50 mix. Done and the system is clean.
This. Use CLR. It's designed to remove exactly what is gumming up most cooling systems.
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Unread 05-04-2013, 08:32 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thompsoj22 View Post
..the hard water deposits take time to form and are the result of not using distilled water in the glycol solution.
x2 on that! Only use distilled water in your cooling system. I had years of cooling system problems in my old truck that I suspect were partly caused by using tap water. In Houston we have hard water so that just makes the problem worse. In my 258 I only use distilled water. It's less than a dollar a gallon making it probably the cheapest fluid one can buy for a vehicle!
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Unread 05-04-2013, 08:39 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pacfanweb View Post
This. Use CLR. It's designed to remove exactly what is gumming up most cooling systems.
Well now I don't know what to think. I just picked some up to decalcify a high pressure pump and the CLR label says NOT to use it on aluminum, copper or brass. Maybe people get into trouble with it by letting stuff soak?

Anyways, I'm going to try the pump in spite of the warning. It's broken already, what's the worse that could happen, right?
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Unread 05-04-2013, 09:32 PM   #15
offroadz
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Finished up and I did get to see what looked like sand laying on the ground after the flush.
Pretty easy to do, even for a novice like me. Worth the few hours to do and peace of mind.
Finished up the last flush with Prestone's coolant cleaning. Then drained radiator and pulled the bottom hose out of the rad to allow freefall water to exit.

Can't wait to see if this improved my cooling temps on the street/highway.
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