Originally Posted by hagan39
Okay so i have a 258, with a rebuilt carb. Bought the Jeep in March of this year and don't know to much. Had a weber carb and was stalling mid drive at random times and was hard to start period. I don't know enough about Jeeps to rebuild a carb so had it redone. Got the carb back and it worked great all summer long. Well weather started getting colder (ohio) and the Jeep is harder to start and starting to stall again (just shuts off when I am driving and is hard to start back up). Any ideas as to why this might be happening. Fuel filter is new and carb is set up right. Need some help because I took it out about a week ago at night and couldnt get it started again from dinner/
. Pretty basic knowledge on my end so simple answers would help. Couldn't find too many similar posts so thought I would start my own, and I did search around quite a bit on JF.
I have a few ideas for you but Weber Carb or any carb and "simple" do not go too well together if get the idea. I do have a few ideas for you.
CK your choke operation and that the 12V power is still on the choke tab
1... next cold start in the AM take the air cleaner off and look at choke, should be partial open.
2...Then your start procedure should be 2 full gas pedal cylces very slow, this sets the choke and pumps two swirts of gas into throat of carb. Have a helper press the gas pedal as said and you can watch. The choke should set full closed and when you start up HIGH Idle should be 1500 rpms in warm summer and 1800/2000 rpms when colder like later fall & winter.
3.. Choke Plate should open with the 12V to the tab on choke... This is a bimetal spring and the 12V makes it hot over time like a mini heater and gradually opens the choke. So after 1 min of HIGH Idel tap the pedal to rev engine some 2500 or so just brief. This will knock the HIGH Idel down some. After 3-5 min that choke should be all the way open and may take the gas pedal rev to release the cam/High Idel.
4.. You may have a water jacketed manifold... Coolant heats this up
Also then there is a electric heater under the carb, this helps too... AFter 2-3 min of running feel this disk heater, should be warm to the touch and the rest of intake will be cold from fuel evaporation. If you have the water jacket intake both these will help a great deal during cold mornings.
5.. If you have a heat rizer manifold... it needs to be lubricated so it moves freely as regular PM. There is also a bimetal spring on one side to make it work right. So ck that too.
Webers need the Low Pres Holley Regulator, only get the holley one. The other brands are garbage. You will see this in the link too.
6.. I would ck your plugs to ck each cylinder is working/fire and good general way to see how things are working. The link at the end will have spark plug reading guide with pics.
7.. I would consider the TEAMRUSH upgraded cap & rotar.... esp if you have a alumium terminal cap now.... I bet you do... alumium oxides are not conductive and will mess your igntion up.. hard start and stalls. So maybe time for Tune UP Parts... TEAMRUSH all the way. Do your aux grounds too... All in the write up below.
I do not feel you will be too lean with a Weber 32/36 if anything they are normally over rich. Looking at your plugs will tell you. I would not adjust your carb as for settings till you get your ignition, Cap, grounds and stuff done first. You can verify the screw setting Turns but put them back to start and record in notebook.
From my experience of having lots of guys post like you this is generaly several little things that can contribute to poor running. Heck you fuel filter could even be pluged if you do not know when it was changed last.... change it.
The Weber Tune & Jet Change will also show you how to ck and verify your WEber e choke is working right. Show how to tune and so forth