Cold start/run problem -
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post #1 of 4 Old 02-07-2011, 04:03 PM Thread Starter
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1979 CJ5 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Fairborn
Posts: 37
Cold start/run problem

So, here it is. I've replaced the entire ignition system, all power and ground cables, vacuum lines and the carb. When it's cold outside, she'll start and seems to idle fine. I give her a few minutes and try to get her moving but she doesn't wanna go. Unless I get the RPMs up to around 1500 she just stutters and starts to die. I think the electric choke is opening too quickly but I'm not sure how to adjust that. Once she's up to operating temps she's fine. Vacuum off the manifold at idle is at 20 when the engine is warm. I'm going to measure when cold to see if the heat is expanding the gaskets and sealing a possible vacuum leak. Also, I removed the Linear Vacuum Regulator thing because it advancing the ditsributor at idle so the only vacuum advance, warm or cold, is coming from the carb. I had also read something about headers effecting cold weather running and starts. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

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post #2 of 4 Old 02-10-2011, 07:28 PM Thread Starter
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1979 CJ5 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Fairborn
Posts: 37
New Question

So I went and saw my carb guy. He suggested that I plug the EGR, CTO, and leave only my PCV and Dist. advance. He also suggested I move my throttle cable connection to the higher of the 2 points. He also made a few minor tweaks and suggested I check my a plug to see if I needed bigger jets. Check, check, and check.
After checking a plug, I headed down to his shop and got 2 bigger jets. Combined, this helped a little. However, while replacing the jets I noticed a smoke/steam coming from under the power-steering pump. It appeared to be coming from the fuel pump so I wiped her down and started jeep to see if I could see it leaking. The leak was apparent so I replaced the fuel pump and the problem was solved. Yet, another one presented itself.
In order to get the old fuel pump out, I had to remove the distributor (unbolted fuel pump and pulled away from block but the fuel line was seized and couldn't remove with pump in compartment). I then installed the new fuel pump, reinstalled the distributor (estimating from previous location), tightened things up and then took her for a test drive. Was running a little rough and I attributed that to not checking the timing, but the previous issue was solved.
After returning home and while checking the timing, I was WAY off. Prior to removal I had set it to 5 or 6 degrees BTDC (book recommends btw. 3 - 7) and that was doable. Now, to get 5 BTDC, it puts the vacuum advance right in line with the PS belt. I presently have her set at 10 (as close to belt as possible) but get a lot of predet on hard acceleration. Can or why would a new fuel pump move my timing approximately 10-15 degrees??? As far as I understand, a distributor can only be installed at 0 and 180 out.
Any help, thoughts, or ideas would be greatly appreciated.
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post #3 of 4 Old 02-10-2011, 07:57 PM
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1979 CJ5 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: kalamazoo, MI
Posts: 644
the distributor may only be able to be installed the way, but did the rotor move when you had it out.....?

"This isn't mud, it's a special Jeep Wax"
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post #4 of 4 Old 02-10-2011, 08:02 PM
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1986 CJ7 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Monroe
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Distributors can be reclocked to make room for vacuum modules and interference issues. Pull it up, rotate it one or two teeth in the direction you need, start the engine and reset the timing.

Let me elaborate a bit. Before you move it, take the cap off and use a sharpie to mark the location of the rotor on the top edge of the dizzy housing. Pull up and reclock the housing where you need it but make sure when it's fully seated, the pointer is aiming at the mark you made earlier. It might take a couple tries to get everything lined up due to the way the gears are cut. Once your happy with everything, snug it down, start it up and reset the timing.

It's just a Jeep, and if you don't wheel it once in a while, it's not even that.
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