Cold start/run problem - JeepForum.com
Search  
Sign Up   Today's Posts
User: Pass: Remember?
Advertise Here
Jeep Home Jeep Forum Jeep Classifieds Jeep Registry JeepSpace Jeep Reviews Jeep Gallery Jeep Clubs Jeep Groups Jeep Videos Jeep Events Jeep Articles
Go Back JeepForum.com > Models > Jeep CJ Forum > Cold start/run problem

Dana 30/ Dana 44 Chromoly shaft Kits- ECGSFS: 2007-2013 Jeep Wrangler "HALO" Angel Eye KitFlowmaster's Force II Axle-back exhaust system for the 201

Reply
Unread 02-07-2011, 04:03 PM   #1
SalvagedCJ
Registered User
1979 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Fairborn, Ohio
Posts: 37
Cold start/run problem

So, here it is. I've replaced the entire ignition system, all power and ground cables, vacuum lines and the carb. When it's cold outside, she'll start and seems to idle fine. I give her a few minutes and try to get her moving but she doesn't wanna go. Unless I get the RPMs up to around 1500 she just stutters and starts to die. I think the electric choke is opening too quickly but I'm not sure how to adjust that. Once she's up to operating temps she's fine. Vacuum off the manifold at idle is at 20 when the engine is warm. I'm going to measure when cold to see if the heat is expanding the gaskets and sealing a possible vacuum leak. Also, I removed the Linear Vacuum Regulator thing because it advancing the ditsributor at idle so the only vacuum advance, warm or cold, is coming from the carb. I had also read something about headers effecting cold weather running and starts. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

SalvagedCJ is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 02-10-2011, 07:28 PM   #2
SalvagedCJ
Registered User
1979 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Fairborn, Ohio
Posts: 37
New Question

So I went and saw my carb guy. He suggested that I plug the EGR, CTO, and leave only my PCV and Dist. advance. He also suggested I move my throttle cable connection to the higher of the 2 points. He also made a few minor tweaks and suggested I check my a plug to see if I needed bigger jets. Check, check, and check.
After checking a plug, I headed down to his shop and got 2 bigger jets. Combined, this helped a little. However, while replacing the jets I noticed a smoke/steam coming from under the power-steering pump. It appeared to be coming from the fuel pump so I wiped her down and started jeep to see if I could see it leaking. The leak was apparent so I replaced the fuel pump and the problem was solved. Yet, another one presented itself.
In order to get the old fuel pump out, I had to remove the distributor (unbolted fuel pump and pulled away from block but the fuel line was seized and couldn't remove with pump in compartment). I then installed the new fuel pump, reinstalled the distributor (estimating from previous location), tightened things up and then took her for a test drive. Was running a little rough and I attributed that to not checking the timing, but the previous issue was solved.
After returning home and while checking the timing, I was WAY off. Prior to removal I had set it to 5 or 6 degrees BTDC (book recommends btw. 3 - 7) and that was doable. Now, to get 5 BTDC, it puts the vacuum advance right in line with the PS belt. I presently have her set at 10 (as close to belt as possible) but get a lot of predet on hard acceleration. Can or why would a new fuel pump move my timing approximately 10-15 degrees??? As far as I understand, a distributor can only be installed at 0 and 180 out.
Any help, thoughts, or ideas would be greatly appreciated.
SalvagedCJ is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 02-10-2011, 07:57 PM   #3
Matt_G
Registered User
1979 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: kalamazoo, MI
Posts: 638
the distributor may only be able to be installed the way, but did the rotor move when you had it out.....?
__________________
"This isn't mud, it's a special Jeep Wax"
Matt_G is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 02-10-2011, 08:02 PM   #4
gosupes
Registered User
1986 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Monroe, WA
Posts: 1,526
Distributors can be reclocked to make room for vacuum modules and interference issues. Pull it up, rotate it one or two teeth in the direction you need, start the engine and reset the timing.

Let me elaborate a bit. Before you move it, take the cap off and use a sharpie to mark the location of the rotor on the top edge of the dizzy housing. Pull up and reclock the housing where you need it but make sure when it's fully seated, the pointer is aiming at the mark you made earlier. It might take a couple tries to get everything lined up due to the way the gears are cut. Once your happy with everything, snug it down, start it up and reset the timing.
__________________
1986 CJ7, 4.2 w/4.0 head, TFI-HEI hybrid ignition, Clifford manifold w/Holley 390 w/cold air intake, OBA, 4.5" lift, Woody CV shaft and Tattons in front, 4.10 gears - lunchbox in front, Truetrac in the back, twin-sticked, blower upgrade for running topless, trying to keep it simple.

It's just a Jeep, and if you don't wheel it once in a while, it's not even that.
gosupes is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply
Thread Tools


Suggested Threads





Jeep, Wrangler, Cherokee, Grand Cherokee, and other models are copyrighted and trademarked to Jeep/Chrysler Corporation. JeepForum.com is not in any way associated with Jeep or the Chrysler Corp.