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Unread 04-09-2011, 09:40 AM   #1366
mvigo
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This is the part of any major build thread I follow where I get a little teary eyed knowing the end is near and we won't get any updates after you finished...your CJ really looks great in the sun! Do you remember which year corvette those seats came out of? I need new ones that give me better lumbar support...

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1985 CJ-7, fuel injected 258, 2.5" Rubicon Express Extreme Duty Lift, 1" Body lift, Crabtree Shackle Hangers, T-5, Dana 300 w/ 4:1 Teralow kit, Dana 30, AMC 20 w/1 piece axle, 3.73 's with Detroit Truetrac front and rear, riding on 32x11.5x15" Cooper Discoverer STT mud terrains
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Unread 04-09-2011, 12:07 PM   #1367
heisman01
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really good resto project
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Unread 04-09-2011, 01:01 PM   #1368
Coiz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skerr View Post
Since it is officially weekend now... I'M WAITING UP!
Sorting pictures and getting ready to post an update.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mvigo View Post
This is the part of any major build thread I follow where I get a little teary eyed knowing the end is near and we won't get any updates after you finished...your CJ really looks great in the sun! Do you remember which year corvette those seats came out of? I need new ones that give me better lumbar support...
It is definitely getting close. Even after the hood and pinstripes I still need to install the tailgate, paint the winch mount and front bumper, Raptor line the trans tunnel cover, build my speaker enclosure and carpet or Raptor line that and then figure out what to do about tires and wheels. Still another month or more of the details.

The seats were out of a 1986 Corvette. I think any seats from the C4 generation Corvette is a direct swap minus one hole that needs to be drilled in the seat frame.

Quote:
Originally Posted by heisman01 View Post
really good resto project
Thank you.
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Unread 04-09-2011, 02:04 PM   #1369
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Hood Refinishing; Again

For anyone that's been following along you know that the hood has been a bit of a nemesis in regards to getting painted. The first time in my garage was a disaster when I had problems with the binder in a batch of the white paint. Then I bumped into the wet clear which required sanding and a re-coat. Once I painted it in the paint booth it was perfect except for a minor spot of white over spray on one of the black stripes. In hind sight I should have left it alone right then but the perfectionist in me wouldn't allow that at the time so I sanded the clear to 1000 and touched up the black area. At the same time I figured I might as well touch up the few minor flaws in the white. Well, when I covered it in clear coat, the black part I fixed was perfect but some of the white spots I touched up were visible because some of my lighter blending got wiped off during final prep. I shot myself in the foot again as I should have just left the white parts alone.

So now the black was perfect but I had to fix the white part again. I sanded the entire thing to 1000 grit and taped off the black areas. I sprayed two solid coats of white and everything was looking awesome. I decided to use a new gun to spray the clear just to be safe as to not end up with white specs in the clear from the gun. Well, the new gun I had bought had some sort of silicone thread sealer on the threads of the internal nozzle which reacted with the clear coat and promptly covered most of the hood with fisheyes. At that point I threw my hands up is disgust and was ready to toss it out of the back of my truck while driving down the highway. I left the hood at the paint shop and told them to fix it no matter the cost.

Well, the painter there told me he sanded down the clear pretty aggressively with 600 grit and then applied five coats of clear. He was still having fisheye problems so he dabbed drops of clear into the deeper ones and figured we could sand out the smaller stuff. He was right, I was able to get rid of most all the fisheyes but the problem with that may coats of clear is with solvent pop. I have several small areas of solvent pop on the rest of the Jeep but I'd probably have to point them out to most people. No one has spotted them yet without me pointing it out. Well, on the hood there is one spot where the solvent pop is several layers thick so there is no sanding it out. Unfortunately it is on the black stripes. It is basically layers of tiny air bubbles in the clear coat. I've put so much time and effort into this hood that I am at the point where I just don't care anymore. The rest of the Jeep has minor flaws here and there so a few on the hood aren't a big deal to me anymore. All in all, I am satisfied with the results and I guess that's all that matters.

So lets get to some pictures showing my last round with the hood. Here it is from a few feet away, looks ok.


Here is a shot of some of the solvent pop.


Here is an example of where the painter dabbed drops of clear coat into the larger fisheyes.


This is after a round of sanding. You can see the shiny spots are the low spots that need to be sanded out. The problem is, as I sand out one layer of the solvent pop, I end up cutting into the next layer. It is a never ending battle until you run out of clear coat to sand and I'm not about to paint this again so I had to stop at some point.


So here is the entire hood sanded down, nice and dull.


One more angle.


This is just to show the sanding finish of 2000 grit before I started polishing with the 3M 3 Stage Perfect-It system.


Here is how it looks after the polish.


One last view.


End result is 99% of the fisheyes are gone, at the right angle and light you can see a little bit of the aggressive sanding by the painter in the lower layers of clear and then the small area of solvent pop in the black stripe. Like I said, I am ok with the end result. I am not stripping it down to repaint it again, I don't care! It doesn't have to be perfect as it should be covered in mud anyway.

Pictures with the hood installed will be posted shortly.
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Unread 04-09-2011, 03:01 PM   #1370
johnsom5
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I say, your efforts turned out real nice. I am a perfectionist myself and have spent a lot of time stressing myself out about little details. There's a certain sense of pride knowing you did something yourself and that no one could do better. Unfortunately, nothing will ever be "perfect" and I've learned to just be content with things. Not settling for mediocrity, but learning to relax a little. That's why I'm just going to leave the gel coat on my cj a dull gloss. It's a Jeep. They're not supposed to be concrete queens.
Very nice Jeep though. Hope you can enjoy it.
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Unread 04-09-2011, 03:32 PM   #1371
Coiz
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^^^ Thank you. In the grand scheme of things the CJ is a beast and 100x better than it was before I started. Do I want it to be perfect, yes. Do I know it never will be, yes. Am I happy with the overall outcome, yes. Learning to not sweat the little things makes working on it much more enjoyable for sure.
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Unread 04-09-2011, 03:39 PM   #1372
Coiz
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Hood Installed

I hope Scott can sleep better at night after seeing these. I pretty much have to repaint every bolt that holds on the hood hinges. I had to do some adjusting on the fenders and grill to get everything lined up just right but I was able to get the lines pretty close.








I'm going to keep working as the weather here is really nice today!
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Unread 04-09-2011, 03:49 PM   #1373
johnsom5
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Looks a little crooked. Haha! Just messing with ya. Very impressive indeed.
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Unread 04-09-2011, 03:49 PM   #1374
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Mike I think your hood looks great. I know how it is to want things perfect. Oh man have I got stories. I am so bad in the shop it's cost me a good bit of money. I'd get a job finished and built to print then start nit-picking my own work. Well I try to make it just right and the next thing I knew I was making the part all over again because I made an error that was worse than ever. Do I ever know how it feels my friend!!

I have to say if I stand back and look at your project as a whole you've done a better job than what it was from the factory. You've made improvements that will make it last longer and be better for what it's intended for. You've also saved yourself a bunch of money by doing the paint yourself. I'd say 99% is doing very well, I take that back....exceptional, and if you just can't live with yourself I'd be glad to come and take it off your hands.

Hey I looked for 20 minutes to find the stick poking thingy. I have been waiting a long time to post that on your thread.

Hey you posted the installed pictures after I first posted. Man that looks outstanding!!!! Yep Scott will be grinning when he sees this.
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Last edited by Jim1611; 04-09-2011 at 03:52 PM.. Reason: posted while you were loading more pictures
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Unread 04-09-2011, 03:56 PM   #1375
Gregg79CJ7304
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Simply stunning.......
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Unread 04-09-2011, 05:05 PM   #1376
SonicR1
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Ugliest Jeep I ever saw!!!!.




Ok, just jealous!!! BEAUTIFUL!!!!
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[COLOR="Red"]... I guess I'm gonna have to fix that too…….[/COLOR]

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[URL="http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/sonics-74-cj5-build-1106795/"][COLOR="DarkOrange"]1974 CJ5 BUILD THREAD[/COLOR][/URL]
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Unread 04-09-2011, 07:59 PM   #1377
Eaglekeeper
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Mike, I can only say I hope my jeep turns out half as nice as your masterpiece. Absolutely beautiful!

Since you're mostly complete on the CJ, any thoughts on the next restoration project?
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Unread 04-09-2011, 08:03 PM   #1378
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Un-funking believable...fantastic work Mike

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Unread 04-09-2011, 09:45 PM   #1379
Davidnex
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This is just to show the sanding finish of 2000 grit before I started polishing with the 3M 3 Stage Perfect-It system

Mike , could you expand on the 3M 3 stage process??
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Unread 04-09-2011, 11:55 PM   #1380
Coiz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Davidnex View Post
Mike , could you expand on the 3M 3 stage process??
David,
Much like I explained in the Methods & Means of body work and paint thread and on page 30 of this thread, I used the 3M Perfect-It system which has three different polishing compounds and pads. But I'm glad you asked because I like posting this. Keep in mind this process takes hours and the three polish products shown below with the pads is over $200 so there is some investment involved.

Here is the assortment of the three stages of 3M polish and pads. Notice the color of the polishing pads match the color of the lids on the bottles. Each polish had it's own recommended polishing speed listed on the bottle. Stage 1 Rubbing Compound: 1400-2000 rpm, Stage 2 Spot and Swirl Remover: 1000-2500 rpm, Stage 3 Ultra-Fine Polish: 1400-2000 rpm. I was polishing toward the high end of the RPM range and the amount of pressure you apply also makes a difference. I would apply medium pressure and steady sweeping at first until I could see the compound starting to dry or thin. At that point I would ease up pressure and move the polisher across the surface a bit faster. You always want to vary the rotation of the pad on the surface of the paint, left to right, up down, front of the pad, rear of the pad, same theory as wet sanding in small circles.


Here is a panel with the typical orange peel and a nice run in the clear.


This shows the panel after being sanded with 1000 grit. Notice the far end consistently dull and flat while the closer section still has little shiny valleys that still require more sanding.


Once all the shiny spots are gone, go over the panel again with 1500-2000 grit to reduce your polishing time.


Here is the panel after polishing with the first stage of 3M Rubbing Compound.


Here is the same panel after stage two 3M Spot and Swirl Remover.


Here it is again after stage three 3M Ultra-Fine Polish.


So for comparison, here is the panel with half of it wet sanded and half of it with the orange-peel finish.


Here is the same panel after being completely wet sanded with 1000-1500-2000 grit sand paper then being polished with all three stages of the 3M polish.
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