Coiz 1979 CJ7 Frame Off Resto; picture crazy - Page 84 - JeepForum.com
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post #1246 of 1943 Old 03-06-2011, 07:17 AM
Jim1611
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Coiz View Post


1. It is paid for
5. It is paid for
7. It has already saved my passenger's fender from destruction multiple times
8. It is paid for
The being paid for, that's important.

I can see how it would help protect the fenders. I like that.

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post #1247 of 1943 Old 03-06-2011, 11:43 AM Thread Starter
Coiz
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Using my BOB

Since I had to run my extra power wire to the amp up the same harness as the PCM, I had to pull it out from behind the dash. Much to my surprise I was able to get it out without too much trouble. Since I had easy access to the PCM I decided to check out some of my engine sensors and verify their readings. I hooked up what is commonly referred to as a BOB. A Break Out Box is simply a terminal station that is spliced into the harness directly at the PCM itself. Here I have it connected to the PCM and can now connect the vehicle harness.


This allows me to start and run the engine if I want while being able to check any circuit to or from the PCM. You can see the VPWR light is lit up and I'm down to 11.99 volts on pin 37. This is after I had already been checking most every sensor with the engine off. Pin 37 is the main VPWR to the PCM. Pin 60 is ground.


Here you can see me checking pin 47. If you notice the diagram above the meter, pin 47 is for the TP (Throttle Position) sensor. It was at .925v closed and only went to 4.0 at WOT. I adjusted it down to .756v closed throttle and now it goes to 4.249 at WOT. Anything over 4.0v is considered WOT to the PCM, I just wanted to make sure it really knows when I want WOT.


I also did this with the EGR. I commanded it on and off, verified it had flow when the engine stumbled and verified the position sensor changed. All of the sensors looked good except for my HEGO's were awfully slow. I think they need to get a good drive cycle and some heat under their belt since they haven't really been used in so long. If they don't perk up on my first test drive I'll have to replace them.

Next up is modifying the winch mounting plate to work on the CJ and with my existing front bumper. This should be the last main piece to require any significant amount of welding and grinding.

Mike
My build thread
1979 CJ7, FI 5.0L Ford, NP435, D300, Full floated D44 Detroit, D30 Detroit EZ Locker.
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post #1248 of 1943 Old 03-06-2011, 11:53 AM
243
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I will bolt all that stuff back together if you will sand my tub

1978 Cherokee, TBI 360/T400/QT...6.0/6L80/NP241C in the works...
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post #1249 of 1943 Old 03-06-2011, 12:44 PM
Grewe02
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 243 View Post
I will bolt all that stuff back together if you will sand my tub
Beat me to it Dave. I was going to ask him to make my harness look like his!

Andy, KD8EIA
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I've had a crush on the Prius since it's debut. I got somethin' wrong upstairs.
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post #1250 of 1943 Old 03-07-2011, 01:21 PM Thread Starter
Coiz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 243 View Post
I will bolt all that stuff back together if you will sand my tub
Quote:
Originally Posted by Grewe02 View Post
Beat me to it Dave. I was going to ask him to make my harness look like his!
At this point I think it would be a fair trade just to get away from this cold weather.

Mike
My build thread
1979 CJ7, FI 5.0L Ford, NP435, D300, Full floated D44 Detroit, D30 Detroit EZ Locker.
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post #1251 of 1943 Old 03-07-2011, 01:27 PM
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That looks great. I made my own ignition and fuel injection system for my Chevy TPI using megasquirt parts. I'm using the Ford 5.0 this time and have been shopping for a break-out box for months, but they always sell for too much. Is there a certain brand you would recommend that I buy? I always wished that there was something similar I could have plugged my home-made TPI harness into to troubleshoot. I know I want one bad this time!
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post #1252 of 1943 Old 03-07-2011, 01:39 PM Thread Starter
Coiz
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I'm partial to Rotunda because it is developed and engineered by Ford. It is the only brand I have ever used so I can't provide much input on the others. If the time comes where you really need one and still don't have one, let me know. I'm sure we can work something out for you to borrow it for a few weeks.

Mike
My build thread
1979 CJ7, FI 5.0L Ford, NP435, D300, Full floated D44 Detroit, D30 Detroit EZ Locker.
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post #1253 of 1943 Old 03-07-2011, 04:07 PM
Guy Smilie
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Mike, I have been enjoying your build for sometime now and think your doing a top notch job. One question I have is you seem to have little trouble taking those fenders off and on, is it really as easy as you seem to make it? I know I had a tough time lining up the bolt holes for the grill. Maybe my body is out of wack more than I think it is?

Ernie
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post #1254 of 1943 Old 03-07-2011, 04:11 PM
83vert
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I could have used you in the 90's when we were racing mustangs and trying to tune the efi. Good stuff Mike.

I am in deep
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/how-did-happen-rebuild-1113470/
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post #1255 of 1943 Old 03-08-2011, 06:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Coiz View Post
The hood will be ready to go on about 3 hours after I get a solid 60 degree day in the garage, that and a friend to help put it on. I need it that warm for the 3M polishes to work.
Fixed it for ya... I'm tired of waiting!
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post #1256 of 1943 Old 03-08-2011, 07:44 PM
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Skerr to the rescue! I don't care who you are, that there's funny.....

Graffxman
'76 CJ7--304 V8
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post #1257 of 1943 Old 03-08-2011, 07:52 PM Thread Starter
Coiz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CJ5ERNIE View Post
Mike, I have been enjoying your build for sometime now and think your doing a top notch job. One question I have is you seem to have little trouble taking those fenders off and on, is it really as easy as you seem to make it? I know I had a tough time lining up the bolt holes for the grill. Maybe my body is out of wack more than I think it is?

Ernie
It is fairly easy getting the fenders on and off with nice clean bolts and threads. It does take a little persuasion to get everything to line up just right but I also over sized the holes in the fenders so getting them started is much easier than before.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 83vert View Post
I could have used you in the 90's when we were racing mustangs and trying to tune the efi. Good stuff Mike.
Thanks. I would have loved to help. Racing is in my blood.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Skerr View Post
Fixed it for ya... I'm tired of waiting!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Graffxman View Post
Skerr to the rescue! I don't care who you are, that there's funny.....
That is pretty good. Those velocity stacks sure are hard to see over. I'm going to run an extra windshield washer motor full of bleach and water with sprayers pointing at the rear wheels for the super smokey burnouts.

Mike
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1979 CJ7, FI 5.0L Ford, NP435, D300, Full floated D44 Detroit, D30 Detroit EZ Locker.
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post #1258 of 1943 Old 03-08-2011, 08:41 PM
Davidnex
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Coiz View Post


1. It is paid for

5. It is paid for

8. It is paid for
Mike, you know what the best Jeep is ???

see item 1,5,8 above

79 CJ 5 Frame up Build
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/79-cj-5-frame-up-1092681/
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post #1259 of 1943 Old 03-08-2011, 10:48 PM
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Mike,

to each his own as they say but I love that front bumper!! Once the hood is on it will look even better...

Mike

1985 CJ-7, fuel injected 258, 2.5" Rubicon Express Extreme Duty Lift, 1" Body lift, Crabtree Shackle Hangers, T-5, Dana 300 w/ 4:1 Teralow kit, Dana 30, AMC 20 w/1 piece axle, 3.73 's with Detroit Truetrac front and rear, riding on 32x11.5x15" Cooper Discoverer STT mud terrains
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post #1260 of 1943 Old 03-09-2011, 06:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skerr View Post
Fixed it for ya... I'm tired of waiting!
You forgot the louvers Scott!!
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