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post #1216 of Old 02-25-2011, 05:36 PM Thread Starter
Coiz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim1611 View Post
Might as well go all out and get the tranny knob too Mike.
I was ready to order one but balked at the $12 shipping charge. That seems a little steep for a little piece of aluminum. I emailed him last night to see if he could do a USPS flat rate box or something more reasonable, he hasn't responded.


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1979 CJ7, FI 5.0L Ford, NP435, D300, Full floated D44 Detroit, D30 Detroit EZ Locker.
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post #1217 of Old 02-25-2011, 07:55 PM Thread Starter
Coiz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepsterjc View Post
That NP435 sure is tall, isn't it. I look forward to see your plans for the shape of the trans tunnel cover.

You'll be on the road for the summer at this rate, for sure.
I went shopping for metal to make the trans tunnel cover and found that all the available sheet metal goes from 16 gauge right to 26 gauge, I couldn't find anything in between. I guess I am going to build the trans tunnel cover with 26 gauge steel so it will be thin enough to shape easily. It appears that the last cover I made was also with 26 gauge metal. I plan to cover it with Raptor on both sides to help stiffen it up a little and add a some sound deadening.

On my last cover I had to break it into two separate pieces so it would follow the hump smoothly and I ended up riveting them together. All of the metal at 26 gauge is zinc coated. Can zinc coated metal be welded or am I stuck with rivets again? I can't say I have tried welding 26 gauge metal yet either, sure sounds thin.

I should be driving it this summer with no problems at all.

Mike
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1979 CJ7, FI 5.0L Ford, NP435, D300, Full floated D44 Detroit, D30 Detroit EZ Locker.
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post #1218 of Old 02-25-2011, 08:01 PM
Jim1611
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Mike some zinc coatings can be welded on. Some of the weldable primers have a zinc base. With that being said if it's galvanized you could grind it off but 24 gauge is pretty thin to start with so that may not be so great. Hey instead of welding or rivets what about some of that panel adhesive like Dave used on his fender and floor?
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post #1219 of Old 02-26-2011, 10:08 AM
jeepsterjc
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I know how you would not rather use rivets to bring the two sides together. I don't know about welding 26 gauge. That is terribly thin. What about shopping a little farther from home for something like 22 gauge or so...?

You'll be able to dint 26 gauge too easily, won't you?
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post #1220 of Old 02-26-2011, 11:12 AM Thread Starter
Coiz
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I went to every place around here that I could think of and they all went from 16 right to 26 gauge. Of course as I typed that I just thought about the Hotrod Shop. Maybe I'll work on something else today and see what I come up with.

The 26 gauge does dent pretty easily but I figured covering both sides with Raptor would stiffen it up quite a bit. I do need it to be a little flexible. I had one main piece that covered the main hump. Then I needed to have a separate piece that went up toward the firewall. I can't make it out of one piece because it just can't make the multiple bends. I will still have the pieces attached to the tub with rivets or screws, although I'll probably use less of them, because I will want it to be removable. The part I was considering welding is where the two pieces meet each other. I could potentially bond them together with some seam sealer or even just lay a bead of silicone across the seam, most of it is hidden by the shifter boot anyway. In hind sight I should have made the opening in the floor at the front smaller but it's too late for that now. This is the best picture I have of what I had made before which might give you an idea of what I am talking about.

Mike
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1979 CJ7, FI 5.0L Ford, NP435, D300, Full floated D44 Detroit, D30 Detroit EZ Locker.
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post #1221 of Old 02-26-2011, 11:24 AM Thread Starter
Coiz
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Here are a couple pictures of the old one tapped into place. Notice how worked over it looks as compared to before I started the rebuild. Goes to show anything in the garage was subject to torture for the first two years of this rebuild. You can see how the two short legs of the top piece went under the main one. You can also see the old weatherstrip I had used which actually worked pretty good.


So I'm basically thinking of making the same basic thing but this time make the legs on the top piece longer so they will catch the rivets/screws that hold on the trans shifter boot.






I think it will look fine once covered in Raptor.

Mike
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1979 CJ7, FI 5.0L Ford, NP435, D300, Full floated D44 Detroit, D30 Detroit EZ Locker.
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post #1222 of Old 02-26-2011, 11:50 AM
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I bet you could have picked up an old hood or deck lid at the junkyard for a few bucks!

1978 Cherokee, TBI 360/T400/QT...6.0/6L80/NP241C in the works...
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post #1223 of Old 02-26-2011, 12:16 PM
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Being a fan of checker plate, I took a piece of 1/8th aluminum checker plate to our machine shop and asked them to roll it for me to shape. I'm thinking of doing it again and having it TIGed if two pieces are necessary.

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post #1224 of Old 02-26-2011, 12:24 PM Thread Starter
Coiz
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I saw the diamond plating but it was some seriously thick stuff and didn't seem like it was going to e very easy to work with. I didn't see any in aluminum though, it was all steel.

Mike
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1979 CJ7, FI 5.0L Ford, NP435, D300, Full floated D44 Detroit, D30 Detroit EZ Locker.
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post #1225 of Old 02-26-2011, 12:44 PM
jeepsterjc
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Aluminum diamond plate is easy to find around here. It is so easy to work with, too.
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post #1226 of Old 02-26-2011, 03:56 PM
tractor1
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Try a HVAC installer for the 22 or 24 gauge thay use it all the time.
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post #1227 of Old 02-26-2011, 05:08 PM
Jim1611
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Mike are you going to bend the transfer case shifters over towards the driver?
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post #1228 of Old 02-27-2011, 01:57 PM Thread Starter
Coiz
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Originally Posted by Jim1611 View Post
Mike are you going to bend the transfer case shifters over towards the driver?
I did bend them over just a little bit but there is not a lot of room. Here you can see how close they are with the transmission in reverse. It looks like the passenger's side shifter could come over just a little more but in all actuality I need that gap there so I don't rake my knuckles on it while controlling the left shifter.

Mike
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1979 CJ7, FI 5.0L Ford, NP435, D300, Full floated D44 Detroit, D30 Detroit EZ Locker.
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post #1229 of Old 03-01-2011, 08:17 PM
lealand
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Wow, it has taken several days to go through this build. First of all i would just like to say WOW!! I know it has all been said before but you sir are amazing. I am in the middle of building my 79 cj5 and I can't wait to use some of the things i have learned here. It is going so slow due to being a college student and the fact that I am getting married in May. I hope to be close to done by then since my time will drop to even less then. You are an inspiration to us all. I wish i had HALF the skills you have!! I cant wait to see yours finished!!
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post #1230 of Old 03-01-2011, 09:19 PM
nedmoore
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Coiz, I am going to stop reading your thread! You just cost me $35.00! I just ordered the billet twin stick knobs for my JB Sticks...
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