Coiz 1979 CJ7 Frame Off Resto; picture crazy - Page 80 - JeepForum.com

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post #1186 of 1943 Old 02-19-2011, 01:36 PM Thread Starter
Coiz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim1611 View Post
Hey Mike I've got an idea on your garage not being warm enough to allow you to put the pinstrpies on!! My shop is heated and you can bring it here, of course it'll need to sit for a while to get warmed up. Maybe 10 years or so. Anyway you are sure welcome to bring it here and do all the work you want. I'll even take pictures for you! You never knew you had such good friends did you?
Will it be returned with full sliders, skid plates and exo-skeleton? It's only a 5 hour drive.

I don't think Scott would appreciate you getting to see/ride/drive the CobraJ7 before he even gets the chance to see it with the hood on.


Mike
My build thread
1979 CJ7, FI 5.0L Ford, NP435, D300, Full floated D44 Detroit, D30 Detroit EZ Locker.
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post #1187 of 1943 Old 02-19-2011, 01:41 PM
NathanCalvert
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CJ-7 Emblems

First I want to say love what you've done, follow the thread faithfully. I don't know about the decals from Morris, however I ran across some a while back at Collins Bros. From the pic of the CJ-7 emblem looks like NOS or real nice reproduction. Don't know if you would be interested since the price is double what you found. Here's the link and you can judge for your self.
http://collinsbros.stores.yahoo.net/emdeap.html
Hopes this helps. If not I didn't waste to much of your time.
Can't wait to see the pics of you on the trails having fun.
C ya later Nathan
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Originally Posted by Coiz View Post
I can buy a new one somewhere, which a quick search revealed about ~$100 for NOS, ouch! Anyone know if the $19 one from Morris is any good?
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post #1188 of 1943 Old 02-19-2011, 01:58 PM Thread Starter
Coiz
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Thanks for the comments Nathan. I did see where JUNK726 posted that the one from Collins Bros. sounds identical to the factory emblem. The CJ-7 emblem is solid metal and should be fairly easy to restore back to original type condition. I was more worried about the Jeep emblem with the colored AMC symbol, I really wanted to make sure that stayed on the Jeep.

Mike
My build thread
1979 CJ7, FI 5.0L Ford, NP435, D300, Full floated D44 Detroit, D30 Detroit EZ Locker.
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post #1189 of 1943 Old 02-19-2011, 02:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Coiz View Post
Will it be returned with full sliders, skid plates and exo-skeleton? It's only a 5 hour drive.

I don't think Scott would appreciate you getting to see/ride/drive the CobraJ7 before he even gets the chance to see it with the hood on.
You drive a hard bargain. Yep bring it on. We won't tell Scott anything about this deal.
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post #1190 of 1943 Old 02-19-2011, 02:36 PM
Skerr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Coiz View Post
Will it be returned with full sliders, skid plates and exo-skeleton? It's only a 5 hour drive.

I don't think Scott would appreciate you getting to see/ride/drive the CobraJ7 before he even gets the chance to see it with the hood on.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim1611 View Post
You drive a hard bargain. Yep bring it on. We won't tell Scott anything about this deal.
I will find you!















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post #1191 of 1943 Old 02-19-2011, 02:40 PM
cjdogtoy
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if I make the drive can I get the same deal?
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post #1192 of 1943 Old 02-19-2011, 09:16 PM
oxynerd
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thanks for the info. ill have my 73cj6 in about two weeks, and ill have lots of questions one last one for now. how much rust/material missing would you just consider getting brand new pieces. I dont think theres much left on the fenders
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post #1193 of 1943 Old 02-20-2011, 11:22 AM Thread Starter
Coiz
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Originally Posted by oxynerd View Post
thanks for the info. ill have my 73cj6 in about two weeks, and ill have lots of questions one last one for now. how much rust/material missing would you just consider getting brand new pieces. I dont think theres much left on the fenders
When you get it, start a thread and post some pictures. As far as repair or replace, it all comes down to the value of your time compared to the cost of the new metal. If you look at the pictures of my front fenders on the first page you can see the rust cancer which caused me to just order new ones. In hind sight, I probably could have fixed them. I didn't save a lot of time by buying new ones because they took so much work to make them worthy of installation. They were thinner metal with piss poor bends and spot welds. No matter how much rust you can see before you start, it will always be worse once you start removing the paint. Good luck with your project.

Mike
My build thread
1979 CJ7, FI 5.0L Ford, NP435, D300, Full floated D44 Detroit, D30 Detroit EZ Locker.
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post #1194 of 1943 Old 02-20-2011, 12:37 PM Thread Starter
Coiz
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All of you Audiophiles should appreciate another small upgrade I just made to my stereo. I was going to use my old school 25Wx4 Alpine to power my main speakers and a new Pyle 80Wx2 for my subs. Well, I had already shown you the upgraded Alpine V-Power 40Wx4 I picked up for the main speakers, I just picked up a 350W mono amp for my subwoofers. This is 200Wx1@ 4ohms but I plan to run it at 350Wx1@ 2 ohms. My subs are rated at 400W rms so I think this will do a pretty good job.

Mike
My build thread
1979 CJ7, FI 5.0L Ford, NP435, D300, Full floated D44 Detroit, D30 Detroit EZ Locker.
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post #1195 of 1943 Old 02-20-2011, 02:10 PM
SonicR1
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EH EH EH, nothing like 350 watts of thump!!!

... I guess I'm gonna have to fix that too…….

The TJ
2005 Wrangler X 4.0/6 speed, Dana 30/Ford 8.8--4.88--Eaton E-Lockers, 35" MT/R, Smittybilt bumpers/rockers/winch, SonicFab tire carrier, RE 3.5 springs, Zone 1.25 BL, FullTraction 3 link upper rear, RE super flex lower rears, UCF ultra high skid and lo/pro mount, brown dog mml.

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post #1196 of 1943 Old 02-20-2011, 04:12 PM Thread Starter
Coiz
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Yeah, some guy was selling a mono 1000W Alpine on CL locally for $50 but the amp is just too big; physically and wattage.

Since I bought two newer amps, I think I have guilt-ed myself into adding another 6-8 gauge power wire for the second amp. The old amps fuses added together didn't add up to the max for what the single wire could handle. The new amps fuses add up to just below the max rating of the wire so I could get away with it but figured I might as well do it right. Probably going to have to remove the passenger's front fender and tear apart most of the harness if I want to make it look as clean as possible.

Mike
My build thread
1979 CJ7, FI 5.0L Ford, NP435, D300, Full floated D44 Detroit, D30 Detroit EZ Locker.
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post #1197 of 1943 Old 02-23-2011, 03:18 PM Thread Starter
Coiz
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I went to install my JB Fab twin sticks on the D300 last night and the bolt that holds on the shifters would not clear the body. Looks like I'll have to loosen all the body mounts and unbolt the roll bar from the frame on the passenger's side to lift it the ~2" I'll need to clear the body with the bolt. Lucky me.

Mike
My build thread
1979 CJ7, FI 5.0L Ford, NP435, D300, Full floated D44 Detroit, D30 Detroit EZ Locker.
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post #1198 of 1943 Old 02-23-2011, 04:18 PM
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One things for sure Mike. You ought to know every bolt on a first name basis.
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post #1199 of 1943 Old 02-23-2011, 04:38 PM
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Mike, I had the same problem and jacked body up and down about 4 or 5 times. I cheated and cut a hole in the floor and make a cover to seal off. I also turned the bolt around and shortened. Now I can remove the twin sticks without the hassle... Just a thought.....

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post #1200 of 1943 Old 02-23-2011, 05:34 PM
cjdogtoy
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can you just lower the skid and transfer case instead.
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