Coiz 1979 CJ7 Frame Off Resto; picture crazy - Page 8 - JeepForum.com
Search  
Sign Up   Today's Posts
User: Pass: Remember?
Advertise Here
Jeep Home Jeep Forum Jeep Classifieds Jeep Registry JeepSpace Jeep Reviews Jeep Gallery Jeep Clubs Jeep Groups Jeep Videos Jeep Events Jeep Articles
Go Back JeepForum.com > Models > Jeep CJ Forum > Coiz 1979 CJ7 Frame Off Resto; picture crazy

Clayton Off Road WJ Long Arm Kits!Baseline 4x4 Lifetime Warranty 4340 Chromoly Axle Shaft KiClayton Off Road - JK Prototype Gas Tank Skid

Reply
Unread 10-04-2009, 09:49 AM   #106
justjeeps
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Orlean, VA
Posts: 192
You've done a great job posting pictures of your progress. That is alot work patching all those panels. Nice job. Can't wait to see the finished Jeep.

justjeeps is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 10-16-2009, 07:23 PM   #107
Coiz
Registered User
1979 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Northern, IL
Posts: 4,169
Finishing up the last tidbits on the tub. With any luck it will get painted and Raptored Sunday-Monday. Really playing the weather game tight. I want to get it done but don't want to risk paint issues by painting if it's too cold.

Should get some more updates posted over the next couple of days.
__________________
Mike
My build thread
1979 CJ7, FI 5.0L Ford, NP435, D300, Full floated D44 Detroit, D30 Detroit EZ Locker.
Coiz is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 10-22-2009, 10:04 PM   #108
Coiz
Registered User
1979 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Northern, IL
Posts: 4,169
More body repairs:

A couple places left that needed some fixing. One was the cowl area directly under the windshield. Kind of funny how this:


Can quickly turn into this after media blasting.


I tried to sand it down but it was obvious too many areas would be left too thin. I had to bend the lip down on the inside of the section and started grinding off the spot welds. After making the top cut the piece just peeled off.


I got the entire section cut out.


I went back and cleaned up all the rust and applied a coat of weldable primer.


After that I cut repair panels and started tacking them into place.


Here it is mostly welded and ready to be ground down.


Once over with the grinder and holes drilled to tack the pieces back together.


Here it is with all the welds ground down. I put a coat of primer on it but it obviously still needs final sanding.
__________________
Mike
My build thread
1979 CJ7, FI 5.0L Ford, NP435, D300, Full floated D44 Detroit, D30 Detroit EZ Locker.
Coiz is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 10-23-2009, 08:32 PM   #109
Coiz
Registered User
1979 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Northern, IL
Posts: 4,169
Last of the major welding

Another panel that had been bugging me all along was the center section of the driver’s front floor. It seemed to be well enough when I started this but this section looked thin and had a lot of cancer specking. I have come too far to not change out this high wear area.


Cut out with the floor support cleaned up.


Replacement section tacked into place.


Welds from the bottom, I had a little touching up to do.


Most of the welds are ground down.


During the initial engine swap I had to cut the opening in the floor to clear the transfer case shifter. Now with the 1” Daystar BL there is plenty of room so I decided to close it up for a cleaner look.


Shape the patch panel.


Weld it on in.


At this point most all of the major welding is done. I just need to go back and do my touch ups and use the shop light to check for pinholes.
__________________
Mike
My build thread
1979 CJ7, FI 5.0L Ford, NP435, D300, Full floated D44 Detroit, D30 Detroit EZ Locker.
Coiz is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 10-24-2009, 04:55 PM   #110
Coiz
Registered User
1979 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Northern, IL
Posts: 4,169
Roll bar back in

I had a couple friends help me put the roll bar back in so I could drill all of the holes in the newly patched sheet metal. The lined up the roll bar by bolting it in at all the stock holes that were left in the body, which were the floor points behind the seats and the rear fenders. Once in place I just drilled the holes through the floor. I added another bolt to the corner that was missing one in this picture. The one with the fender washer is what ties it to the frame.


I had to trim the fender washer on the driver’s side floor.


Although I know it is attached directly to the frame, I wasn’t really satisfied by the fact all of that load would be placed on such a small part of the actual body metal. So I decided to cut some small plates to place under the body to pinch more area of the sheet metal. I just cut a bar of 1/8" x 3" and cut it to the same length of the front plate on the roll bar. The plates are only wide enough to catch two of the floor bolts but between those and the main tie-in, I think it will be fine. To give the plates the correct bend I clamped them to the front roll bar plates with C-clamps on the long side then heated up the area that needed to angle with MAP gas and used my 3# hammer to pound them into shape. It was pretty easy really. I left a slight overhang on purpose.


I hadn’t originally planned to use the plates so I may have to sand the aluminum spacers down a little to compensate for the thickness of the plate. I can do that during final assembly. This should help to distribute any load.


I loosened up the body mounts enough to slide it into place.


From there I just drilled the rest of the holes in the step brace and got it ready to be pulled back out.
__________________
Mike
My build thread
1979 CJ7, FI 5.0L Ford, NP435, D300, Full floated D44 Detroit, D30 Detroit EZ Locker.

Last edited by Coiz; 11-07-2009 at 11:31 PM..
Coiz is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 11-02-2009, 06:00 PM   #111
Coiz
Registered User
1979 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Northern, IL
Posts: 4,169
Clutch linkage

While I had the body on the frame I took the chance to fix the clutch linkage angle due to the 1” body lift. My original clutch pivot broke the stud off the end of it ten years ago. I had a friend weld it back on and I also bought a spare and threw it in the center console. I was going to modify the new bracket for the build but once I pulled it out I changed my mind. The stock bracket that bolts to the firewall is 3/16” thick while the replacement part I bought 10 years ago is only 1/8” thick. I needed to extend the mounting holes at least one inch so I took a piece of 3/16” angle and welded it to the end.


Next I cut it to the correct length.


I had the time and metal so I figured I would go ahead and beef up the lateral support.


After welding that piece on and cutting it straight, I ground the edges smooth and rounded the corner on top.

I have since welded the extra holes shut and sanded everything smooth. I’ll edit to add a picture once it is all painted.
__________________
Mike
My build thread
1979 CJ7, FI 5.0L Ford, NP435, D300, Full floated D44 Detroit, D30 Detroit EZ Locker.
Coiz is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 11-07-2009, 09:14 AM   #112
Coiz
Registered User
1979 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Northern, IL
Posts: 4,169
Cutting rear fenders for 35’s

My brother had given me some measurements from his CJ7 on how much he had cut off and how much clearance he had gained to clear the 35” tires. I really wanted to keep the CJ flares so I basically followed his example. He took the rear half of the flare and extended it out into a nice arch that made it end about three inches high off the bottom of the panel. If you follow the arch down it ends 2 ½” from the seam of the rear corner panel.


I wasn’t really keen on that lip at the back so I took a few measurements and did a little math and decided what I needed to do to make the fender flares level. Here is what I started with:



I moved the front part of the flare up the 3” from the bottom and followed out the natural arch of the flare. Front of the driver’s side.


Holding the front of the flare at that height and continuing the arch made mine finish 2 ¾” from the rear corner seam.


I drew out the line and made my first cut. I pretty much ended up cutting all the way to the line on the next pass but this should give you a reference of how much metal I removed.


I also wanted to get the inner fender well braces back on the Jeep. I need it hold up the vapor emissions components as well as keep mud and road grime off the back of my brake lights. Since my rear roll bar tie-ins run right through the middle where the stock brace was I decided the easiest way to mount these back on the Jeep is to make them float and bolt them to the frame tie-in. I trimmed the edges a bit and determined where they would need to mount.


I had to angle the bottom to make it follow the new fender cutout so I cut a relief and bent it to the correct angle. You can see the holes for the two emissions valves as well as the mounting holes that line up to the frame mount. Its 3/16” thick so shouldn’t be a problem just drilling and tapping to hold the brace in place. These will be POR’ed then Raptored.


I ended up cutting the lip off the original piece and welding it back onto the tub.


All the welds ground down.


Here is the final product without the flare.


Here is how it should look when all mounted up.


I did the same thing to the passenger’s side and they look the same. I think this will be a very clean look for the rear flares and the 35’s should fill them in nicely. Uncut with 33’s, I had rub marks on the backs of the flares but not enough to dent the panel. I just added 1” of body lift, 1/2" of shackle and cut off just over 2 ½” of metal to accommodate a tire that should only theoretically be 1” larger than I had before.
__________________
Mike
My build thread
1979 CJ7, FI 5.0L Ford, NP435, D300, Full floated D44 Detroit, D30 Detroit EZ Locker.
Coiz is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 11-07-2009, 05:29 PM   #113
justjeeps
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Orlean, VA
Posts: 192
Quote:
Originally Posted by Coiz View Post
I did the same thing to the passenger’s side and they look the same. I think this will be a very clean look for the rear flares and the 35’s should fill them in nicely.
I see you have nerf bars on the side, but some rock rails with the tubes off the side could tie into the body in the area where the front of the flare sits up the 2-3 inches and hide that. It looks good the way you've done that though.
justjeeps is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 11-07-2009, 07:57 PM   #114
Coiz
Registered User
1979 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Northern, IL
Posts: 4,169
Quote:
Originally Posted by justjeeps View Post
I see you have nerf bars on the side, but some rock rails with the tubes off the side could tie into the body in the area where the front of the flare sits up the 2-3 inches and hide that. It looks good the way you've done that though.
You're right, that would look pretty good. Sticking with the Cobra theme, I was actually thinking of using that spot to replicate the pin striping on the bottom of a Cobra like in the the following picture. It would be black sticker with "5.0 HO" instead of the "GT500" as in the picture. I can adjust the size of the pinstripe and letters to match the 3" gap I left. At least the idea looks good in my head.


Kind of something like this with my crude MS Paint skills.


What do you think?
__________________
Mike
My build thread
1979 CJ7, FI 5.0L Ford, NP435, D300, Full floated D44 Detroit, D30 Detroit EZ Locker.

Last edited by Coiz; 11-07-2009 at 11:24 PM..
Coiz is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 11-13-2009, 12:49 PM   #115
Coiz
Registered User
1979 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Northern, IL
Posts: 4,169
Welding in the bulkhead

I welded up a few holes in the bulkhead and cleaned all of the points where it would be welded back in.


Gave everything a quick coat of weldable primer.


All tacked in:


Finished picture from the front with the rest of the tub cleaned up and all of the old seam sealer cut out with a razor blade.


One more from the rear with everything welded up and the seams cleaned.
__________________
Mike
My build thread
1979 CJ7, FI 5.0L Ford, NP435, D300, Full floated D44 Detroit, D30 Detroit EZ Locker.
Coiz is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 11-13-2009, 12:54 PM   #116
Coiz
Registered User
1979 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Northern, IL
Posts: 4,169
Rear seat and mounts

I have never had a rear seat in the CJ since I have owned it. I didn’t really have any intention of installing one either since the roll bar and Scrambler bulkhead would make it near impossible to get in and out of anyway with the top installed. My friend kept pushing me to buy one so he would have somewhere to ride if we ever decide to take it out cruising with my GF, him and me. I was able to find one for $40 on Craigslist so I decided to pick it up.


It wasn’t perfect as it had a couple of small cigarette burns and a small tear in the front lower section. I probably wouldn’t have bought this seat if I had known about it before I went through the time and trouble to go get it. I cleaned it really well and let it dry for a couple days. I bought one of those vinyl repair kits and gave it a shot. Here is the worst of the problems with the adhesive already applied.

There is no way I could mount the seat in the stock location because the front of the seat would be less than 1” off the Scrambler bulkhead, not much leg room like that. Luckily the Jeep tub already had the three required inserts welded under the tub in the reward most brace. So I bought the correct size tap and threaded the factory blank inserts at the rear. Once I mounted the seat by the three rear bolts I just drilled the holes for the two front mounts and fabbed up a couple brackets for the bolts to thread into.


Here it is compared to the stock seat-securing nut.


I welded it in and made it the correct size so it would overlap the lip of the under body brace. Just a little extra material for it to be secured to so it will be much less likely to ever pull through the floor.


The other side was made the same way and ended up being installed underneath the heat shield, I’m assuming that’s what that is, on the drivers side front mount. I could only get to a small portion of the bracket due to the shield so once welded in as you see in the picture I actually drilled a couple small holes in the floor of the tub from the topside so I could weld in the other end of the bracket to the floor. That way it is welded in at all four corners.


Next I put a couple coats of Gloss Black Vinyl paint on the seat. It looked pretty good after two coats and I had some paint left over so I decided to put on a third coat. Part of the way through the spray paint can messed up and started spraying funny with mist and splatter so I stopped. You can see it looks a little streaky but part of that is due to drying differences. I’ll probably buy another can of paint and give it one last coat to make it as consistent as possible. I’m not really worried about it as the seat was kind of an after thought anyway.


Here is a close up of the repair after the glue had dried and I used the color repair compound and heat tool to try and match the seat texture.


After adding up the price of the seat, paint, vinyl repair kit and my time, I should have just bought a brand new seat or told my friend he was SOL. I still have to clean up the brackets that bolt to the seat and attach it to the floor but I will get that done later.
__________________
Mike
My build thread
1979 CJ7, FI 5.0L Ford, NP435, D300, Full floated D44 Detroit, D30 Detroit EZ Locker.
Coiz is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 11-13-2009, 01:41 PM   #117
Mark4883
Registered User
1991 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 2,365
Just read your entire thread. Really clean build, subscribed.
Mark4883 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 11-13-2009, 06:54 PM   #118
justjeeps
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Orlean, VA
Posts: 192
Kind of something like this with my crude MS Paint skills.


What do you think?[/QUOTE]

That does look pretty good and hides the fact the flare is raised up a few inches.
justjeeps is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 11-14-2009, 12:57 PM   #119
Coiz
Registered User
1979 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Northern, IL
Posts: 4,169
Paint, seam sealer and Raptor

After a couple more rounds of touch-up welds and filling pinholes it was time to get this thing covered in paint. Gave the tub two good cleanings with Marine Clean.


Rinsed it off and started applying the Metal Ready etching solution.


Coating the bottom side letting it soak for 30-40 minutes.


Watching it dry you can see the layer of zinc phosphate left by the Metal Ready.


Completely dry, using the portable heater to make sure the seams are bone dry.


After I was sure it was dry, I took a brush and applied POR-15 to every seam on the tub by hand. Anywhere two pieces of metal contact each other it got a coat of paint. The bottom:


All the seams painted inside.


I let the POR dry for a couple hours then applied Motorcraft TA-2 body seam sealer to every seam I could possibly find. This stuff retails for $45 a tube for a reason. I went through two tubes. I know it was total overkill but I don’t ever want this thing to rust until after they bury me in it at a ripe old age.


Seams on the inside were also sealed.


First coat of POR-15 applied out of the HVLP gun at 35psi.

In the middle of applying the first coat on the inside of the tub.


Here is the bottom after two full coats of POR-15.


As soon as it was dry enough, I started to tape off everything for the application of the UPOL Raptor.


Following the directions I got from talking to the technical reps at POR, I waited until the POR was dry to the touch but still had some finger drag and applied the first coat of the UPOL Raptor.


Here is a close up of the texture. The flash makes it look gray but it is obviously black.


Good picture of the first coat on the inside of the tub.


Here it is after two full coats and rolled out of the garage for a little better picture. This was taken a week after it was applied.


I used a total of eight bottles of Raptor to fully cover the inside and bottom of the tub with two solid coats. I didn’t paint the sides because I couldn’t get to all of them at the same time and I also need to apply a dustcoat of primer to the POR soon after it is applied for proper adhesion. So I intend to paint the sides of the tub at the same time I paint the hood, grill and tailgate. The windshield frame and new fenders still need some welding work so they will likely get painted next spring at the same time I paint my rear bumper from Besrk, which I haven't ordered yet. I just wanted to get this tub covered before winter and give me the chance to get some filler work done weather permitting.
__________________
Mike
My build thread
1979 CJ7, FI 5.0L Ford, NP435, D300, Full floated D44 Detroit, D30 Detroit EZ Locker.
Coiz is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 11-21-2009, 03:50 AM   #120
4biY
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Indiana
Posts: 26
Very Nice work on your CJ man keep it up lookin Great!
__________________
ifn it dont work get a Bigger Hammer
4biY is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
cj7 , frame , paint , welding
Thread Tools


Suggested Threads





Jeep, Wrangler, Cherokee, Grand Cherokee, and other models are copyrighted and trademarked to Jeep/Chrysler Corporation. JeepForum.com is not in any way associated with Jeep or the Chrysler Corp.