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Unread 07-27-2009, 12:11 PM   #91
Coiz
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I bought a large piece of 16 gauge sheet metal to cut all of my patch panels from. You are correct that my welder is a Harbor Freight 220v mig, $140 shipped to my door and now has over 12# of wire through it with no problems. I used .030 flux core on all of the frame repairs and heavy metal work and switched over to .024 solid wire with CO2 shielding gas for all of the lighter sheet metal welding.

I wish I would of had a larger vice/anvil while shaping some of the patch panels but they came out pretty nice in the end.

I am going to wait until all of my welding and grinding are done before I give the entire tub a once over with some 320-400 grit to clean it up then coat with paint.

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Unread 08-22-2009, 12:41 AM   #92
Coiz
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Fender Panels

All of the lips on the rear wheelhouses were basically shot. Here you can see where I have cut off one of the lips and a sample repair piece to weld back on.


Here I have a couple of the lips welded on. Check out the rust belt I need to get cut out.


All of the rear fender lips all welded up and the top lip mostly ground down.


Here is what the passenger’s side rear quarter panel looked like when I started. You can see my practice spot-welds.


Rough cut the obvious bad spots and entire lip.


The replacement lip tacked on.


Here is a picture of the backside of the welds.


You may have noticed in an earlier picture I was trying to fix the rust belt left by where the inner fender support was attached. I had a bad problem with oil canning and decided to just replace that entire section. So I cut it out and made a piece to fit. I still need to bend the lip.


Mostly welded on.


Looks like its all coming together.



It is truely amazing how so many hours of labor can fit into just 10 simple pictures.
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Unread 08-22-2009, 12:54 AM   #93
Lifesgoodhere
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Ahhh, the good past times of patch work. Yup takes forever, but in the end it is worth it. Nice job keep up the fine work.
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Unread 08-27-2009, 06:20 PM   #94
wanabejeeper
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Wow

All grain brewer and 4 wheeler and one hell of a fab... you married?
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Unread 08-27-2009, 06:48 PM   #95
SlikRic
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Very nice work Mike
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Unread 08-28-2009, 03:08 PM   #96
apmcrx
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Nice work man! Keep it up!
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Unread 08-30-2009, 12:43 AM   #97
Coiz
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More patch work

Thanks for the encouragement guys.

This part of the rebuild has gotten old fast. I have been working on this consistently over the last several months. Welding and grinding is long and tedious work. You have to wear long sleeve shirts and it is normally a hot job anyway plus the summer weather.

Not to mention my neighbors must love me when last weekend I decided I was tired and was going to stop working, I go to shut down my music computer in the garage and it was 3:15 in the morning. Oops… The two-car garage door open 10”, the back door opened about the same for some ventilation. I was pounding panels into shape, switching between cutting, welding and grinding over and over all night long. Of course I had earmuffs on all night so it didn’t seem loud to me. I was truly shocked the cops hadn’t knocked on my garage door.

I thought I had finished that passenger’s side by welding the rectangular patch panels. I had given it a once over with the grinder but shrinkage caused me some problems later. At this point I was more concentrated on working than taking pictures so there are some breaks in the photos.


Here you can see where I patched two of the lips on the driver’s side wheel well. Only one more lip to cut out and replace.


All of the lips repaired with the rust section on the quarter ready to be cut out.


I replaced the inner lip of the top wheel well just like on the other side and welded in the two rectangular patch panels.


4 Ĺ” grinder to the welds.


Once over with a 120 grit-sanding disk.


I also had an issue on the passengers side A pillar.


Here is after I had cut out all of the rust, sanded it clean and primed with weldable primer.


Here is the patch panel I cut, pounded and ground into shape.


I sanded it down, cleaned and primed. Here it is mostly welded up.


All ground down and ready to be sanded clean.

In this case it looks better in person than in does in the picture.

I have to fix a small spot on the front passengers floor and body mount support as well as clean and rust proof the entire rear body support.
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Last edited by Coiz; 08-30-2009 at 02:34 AM..
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Unread 08-30-2009, 10:40 PM   #98
IdahoJeeper
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Great work!!
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Unread 09-01-2009, 11:07 PM   #99
Coiz
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Passengers floor support

I saw a small rust bubble on the passengers floor support and decided to grind it smooth. It went from a pea to a quarter in a matter of seconds. I proceeded to cut out the entire section of rust and replace the floor support along with the floor.


As I said, I was more interested in working than taking pictures. Here is the floor support repaired with the welds ground down and the floor repaired with the welds that still needed to be touched up.


Here is a picture from the top. I have one main tack weld holding the floor to the support. I add two more later.


Ground down and ready for the sander.


I was worried about the rear most body brace. I had cut out some rusted sections on the rear to find the inside of the brace to be coated in a wax type substance. I had scraped some of it off but decided to leave most of it alone. This stuff has lasted thirty years with no visible rust it must be pretty good stuff.


I took an old sock secured around a hanger coated in Marine Clean and ran it up and down the inside for quite some time. Then I rinsed it out with a hose and used a squirt bottle of Metal Ready to coat the metal for 25 minutes.


I let it dry overnight then painted the inside by cutting an old sock in half and fully saturating it in POR-15. This was secured to a wire clothes hanger I used to ram up and down the inside of the rear body support. I was able to use the holes in the support, by sticking my fingers through them, to help me guide the wire to help me seal the gaps with paint. Oh so close, but as good as I could get after four attempts.


Here are the patch panels all made up and ready to weld in.


Here it is an hour or so later with the driverís side all welded in.


Here it is all ground down.


Sanded with a 120-grit disk.


Here is the passengerís side patch panel.


Here it is partially welded and ground.


Here it is all ground down.


Cleaned up with a 120 grit sander.


Coated with more POR before the corners are welded on.
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Unread 09-01-2009, 11:49 PM   #100
Coiz
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Driverís wheel well

I didnít like the rust spot under the lip at the front of the driverís side rear wheel well. I ended up cutting out a major section of the wheel well since the entire lip was going to have to be re-welded anyway.


I know for every one of these I spot and fix there is another I am missing. Glad I took the time to cut this out though.


I cut, pounded and shaped this piece to fit. Took a bit of work to get it to all of the correct angles.


Here is how it looked from the backside.


Patch the hole that was cut out at the beginning.


I also had to repair a couple lips and small section near the corner of the wheel well. Here it is with the lips replaced and the patch piece mostly welded in. I did this before the major piece if you couldnít tell.


It looks a little rough but it is really not too bad.


I actually got the rear corners welded on and most everything tacked back together. Iíll post that up once I get back from the Labor Day vacation. I canít wait to spend the next five days in Estes Park with my family! Just some final grinding and a few spots to touch up and the Tub is done. I still need to fix the windshield frame and a small spot under it near the cowl but I am definitely over the major welding hump, Thank God.
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Unread 09-02-2009, 06:53 AM   #101
Shasta69
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what gauge metal are you using to replace the sheet metal?

welding wire type?

thanks for posting this

you rock and much luck!
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Unread 09-02-2009, 11:09 PM   #102
Coiz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shasta69 View Post
what gage metal are you using to replace the sheet metal?

welding wire type?
The patch panels were cut from a large piece of 16 gage sheet metal I bought from the local Menards. I used .030 flux core on all of the frame repairs and heavy metal work. I bought the flux core wire at Harbor Freight while picking up consumables and it was listed as 0.030" E71T-GS Flux Core made by Chicago Electric.

I used .024" solid core wire with CO2 shielding gas for all of the lighter sheet metal welding. I had one 2# spool from Harbor Freight and another spool from Farm & Fleet which was Hobart brand. Both of the .024" spools were labeled as ER70S-6. I can't say I noticed a difference between the two brands. The Hobart may be a tad easier to grind but that could be because I replaced my 4.5" grinding wheel at the same time I replaced the spool.
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Unread 09-03-2009, 06:27 AM   #103
molsenice
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Increadable work - I like it.

My on going marathon - http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/cj...-again-620861/

they are fun to build , the cj6 is my second build

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Unread 09-03-2009, 11:43 AM   #104
Coiz
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^^^ Oh yeah Molsen, I have been following your build. Seeing the extent of your body work was one of the threads that convinced me I could patch up mine.

Hope you heal up fast and get back at it. Looking forward to seeing your CJ6 get done.
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Unread 10-04-2009, 01:42 AM   #105
Coiz
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Rear Corners and welding it all together

I used a ratchet strap to pull the wheel wells into square and bolted them through the original holes for the rear roll bar tie-in. I held the tailgate in place to make sure I was at least close on the bodylines for the sides of the tailgate. The driverís side rear corner mounted right up and fit quite nicely. Itís held together on the lips with vice grips. This is just the trial fitting before welding everything together.


Not bad at all, I should be able to work with that.


Now when I got to the passengers side, I wasnít so lucky. I had always known the passengerís side rear corner looked a little warped and low but didnít know just how bad it really was.


As you can see it was way off. I contribute this to not leaving enough of a gap between the tub and patch panels, especially right at the wheel arch lip. I was probably also going a little to fast and not letting it cool enough between welds. This was the first long flat section of tub I attempted to repair. It was giving me oil canning issues and all kinds of problems. I thought I was finally done with it and I had already put so much work into it I couldnít give up now. So I made several relief cuts in the entire rear quarter and pulled it up and clamped it to the corner.


I took my old rear bumper, which is made from 3/8Ē angle, and clamped it across the top of the quarter panel. I used clamps to pull it all tight to make sure it was nice and straight then slowly welded up the seams.


This is after I had already filled in the holes in the rear corners for the stock tire carrier and bump stop. Here I have the corners all tacked into place with the tail gate mounted up to make sure everything is square and my lines will be even.


The driverís side lined up great.



Right on cue the passengerís side is giving me troubles again.


So I made it line up the easiest way I knew how. I cut a relief and tacked it where I wanted it.

You have no idea how many hours I have spent welding and grinding on that one piece of metal. It looks worse in the picture than it really is and I have made some major improvements in its straightness with my hammer and dolly. I have faith it wonít take too much body filler to make it flat by the time I am done. I had pieces with filler over ľĒ thick that I had cut off from the PO repairs so I am already way ahead of where it was.


Next I went around and welded the wheel wells to the quarter panels and the corners.


I also welded together most of the patch panels. I couldnít get a conventional clamp or vice grip to hold them together so I ended up drilling a hole through the two pieces and used a sheet metal screw to suck them together. Once tacked up I removed the screws and filled the holes with weld.


Here is the driverís side corner with pretty much everything welded up. All of the bodylines have come out straight and even at the correct heights.


Here is one last picture showing how square the tailgate lines and height came out.


The tub is almost done. I have gone around and completed touch up welds and final grinding about three times now so I am really running out of pinholes to seal up. I'll be doing it again once the tub comes back off the frame and I can get to the underside easier. I have to repair a rusted belt on the front cowl area and I think I am also going to replace another section of the driverís floorboard. I was working on the cowl today and should have it done by tomorrow afternoon. The driverís floor will be a simple flat piece so it shouldnít take much time to repair. I hope to have the tub PORíed and Raptoríed before the cold weather sets in. Then I can complete my filler work and prep the windshield frame, hood, grill, tailgate and fenders over the winter. Iíll paint in the spring and put it back together over next summer. I really wanted to get it painted before winter set in but it's just too much work by myself. There is no way I can get the POR and Raptor down and have enough time to complete all the filler work to paint in the next three weeks. I might have access to a paint booth so there is a small chance of it getting painted in the winter sometime but I am not going to hold my breath. I was really hoping to have all winter for assembly but I simply ran out of time.
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