Coiz 1979 CJ7 Frame Off Resto; picture crazy - Page 60 - JeepForum.com

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post #886 of 1943 Old 11-21-2010, 03:50 AM
boomvader
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Coiz View Post
The main reason for the switch is so I can turn them off when treading water or any other time I don't want them to run. Most of the time I will just leave it on auto so the fans will be controlled by the thermistor input. Lastly, if for some reason I ever need to override the thermal input, I can manually turn them on.
Great idea, Mike. I wouldn't mind incorporating this into my existing fan configuration.

Keep up the great work!


-boom

Boom's CJ-7 Project (Completed in 2011) http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/bo...oject-1085653/
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post #887 of 1943 Old 11-21-2010, 05:32 AM
Eaglekeeper
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Mike. Great job on the wiring. Serious attention to detail will payoff down the road. With the extra switches, your dash will look like a aircraft c0ckpit; way cool
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post #888 of 1943 Old 11-21-2010, 11:30 AM
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Do your "aircraft" switch covers force the switch into a specific position? If so I'd try and make sure that position is "Auto". If that switch accidentally gets set to "Off", it could be bad news for your 5.0L. As a failsafe you could wire in a "switch bypass" relay, triggered off the "Temp" idiot light circuit.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Coiz View Post
The main reason for the switch is so I can turn them off when treading water or any other time I don't want them to run. Most of the time I will just leave it on auto so the fans will be controlled by the thermistor input. Lastly, if for some reason I ever need to override the thermal input, I can manually turn them on.
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post #889 of 1943 Old 11-21-2010, 11:57 AM Thread Starter
Coiz
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The switch I got is not a momentary toggle and there is no cover for it. It is a three position that stays wherever you put it. I had done that once before where I turned it off and forgot to turn it back on. I caught it right as it started to overheat and puke out coolant. No harm no foul. That switch is like the first thing you see on the dash when climbing into the Jeep. I'm sure I'll add that to my mental checklist before starting the CJ, just like making sure its in neutral or having to push in the clutch.

Back in the day I had witnessed a guy who went into a river crossing with his fans running and when the fans hit the water the blades came apart and destroyed his shroud and radiator. Lots of talk about that around the campfire that night. So when I went to electric fans, I added in the switch.

Mike
My build thread
1979 CJ7, FI 5.0L Ford, NP435, D300, Full floated D44 Detroit, D30 Detroit EZ Locker.
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post #890 of 1943 Old 11-21-2010, 12:05 PM
chuckt62
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I thought I saw that you had a bank of nice covered switches earlier in your thread. I just assumed that it would be located in that bank. I've never used those but I did see some advertised, that forced the switches when closed. Not a bad idea...
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post #891 of 1943 Old 11-21-2010, 12:16 PM Thread Starter
Coiz
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Finishing up the wiring

Once I made sure the Jeep starts and runs fine and all the electrical was up to par I had to go back and cover up all the exposed harnesses. I dropped the fender back down, ran the convolute and started taping. It is still a little busy under the battery tray but it is much better than it was before I started. I've got the EGR vacuum solenoid zip-tied to the harness until I decide where and how to mount it. Notice I also have the battery tray and fender braces installed.


Here is the passenger's side as I was getting ready to install the fender for the first time.


Here it is starting to look more like a Jeep every day.


I found out the lowest fender brace is supposed to go right where I had installed my charcoal canister. I was tempted to just leave out the brace but decided to relocate the canister up so I could get all of the braces installed.


So I moved the canister up a notch and got everything where it needs to be.

Mike
My build thread
1979 CJ7, FI 5.0L Ford, NP435, D300, Full floated D44 Detroit, D30 Detroit EZ Locker.
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post #892 of 1943 Old 11-21-2010, 01:38 PM
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Coming together nicely. Do you have your steering shaft mounted yet? I can't tell by the photo.

Also, your 5.0 plenum seems to be sitting almost level. Others I've seen appear to be angled reward and down much more. I like the appearance of your engine angle you've set up for yourself. My 5.0 will be trial fitting in the engine bay late December sometime. Your plenum appears to be about even or just lower than your rad tank and cap.

Do you how much lower your Cobra plenum sits than the Explorer plenum?

I'm thinking I may not have as troublesome an engine fit problem as I have been thinking I would.

Lookin good!

Jim
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post #893 of 1943 Old 11-21-2010, 02:10 PM Thread Starter
Coiz
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Hi Jim,
I'm not sure of the height difference between the Cobra and Explorer intakes, I can measure stuff if you want any specific measurements. Keep in mind I do have a 1" BL but I also have the 1" spacer between the two intakes. You can always look at the pictures on the first page and reference the intake height to the tub cowl and get a good idea of how low it sat with no BL and no intake spacer. There is plenty of room in the engine compartment so I don't think you'll have any problems there.

My driveline is only angled down about 4 degrees. As you already know, the engine and transmission angle is typically set so the driveline angle will cancel out the pinion angles. So if your front and rear pinion is say 6 degrees, then you would typically set the engine and trans close to that same 6* to have the offsetting angles at the u-joints. My rear angle is irrelevant with the CV shaft and my front axle is just over 6* so I am at the top of the spec for normal working angles but well within the limits of the u-joints. So in theory I should have angled it down another couple degrees.

Mike
My build thread
1979 CJ7, FI 5.0L Ford, NP435, D300, Full floated D44 Detroit, D30 Detroit EZ Locker.
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post #894 of 1943 Old 11-21-2010, 03:22 PM
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It sure is looking more like a Jeep!! I've seen fans get the radiator when they hit the water too. Mine will have a switch on it like yours.

Everything is looking great Mike.
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post #895 of 1943 Old 11-21-2010, 04:50 PM Thread Starter
Coiz
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Thanks Jim. It's going to start coming together fast.

Next up in the engine compartment is the rest of the stuff that gets mounted to the driver's side inner fender. Here is my wiper washer reservoir that was neglected the entire time.


Cleaning agents weren't cutting it so I sanded it down.


New coolant reservoir I picked up from Morris4x4. My Jeep never had one before, it just had a tube running to the ground.


Everything bolted right in and looks pretty good to me.


Even the horn is ready to roll. Secure the harness in a couple of spots and that's done.

Mike
My build thread
1979 CJ7, FI 5.0L Ford, NP435, D300, Full floated D44 Detroit, D30 Detroit EZ Locker.
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post #896 of 1943 Old 11-21-2010, 05:35 PM
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Your engine compartment looks as clean as it did right after you reassembled everything initially. How did you keep it dust free? I can't wait to see the hood on it.

Kerrdog
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post #897 of 1943 Old 11-21-2010, 06:07 PM Thread Starter
Coiz
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All of the fenders and parts were stored inside. The engine is actually pretty dusty. I guess those pictures aren't really showing it off. I did have thin plastic over it for a while too.

Here is the wiring going to the fans and front lights. I just need to put a couple securing tabs on the fender to hold the harness in place.


I soldered and heat shrinked the dedicated ground terminal inside the tail light housings. I also cleaned up the connection points better.


The rear marker and tail lights are on along with the license plate holder.


I also decided to get a new locking gas cap.

Mike
My build thread
1979 CJ7, FI 5.0L Ford, NP435, D300, Full floated D44 Detroit, D30 Detroit EZ Locker.
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post #898 of 1943 Old 11-21-2010, 07:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Coiz View Post
Hi Jim,
I'm not sure of the height difference between the Cobra and Explorer intakes, I can measure stuff if you want any specific measurements. Keep in mind I do have a 1" BL but I also have the 1" spacer between the two intakes. You can always look at the pictures on the first page and reference the intake height to the tub cowl and get a good idea of how low it sat with no BL and no intake spacer. There is plenty of room in the engine compartment so I don't think you'll have any problems there.

My driveline is only angled down about 4 degrees. As you already know, the engine and transmission angle is typically set so the driveline angle will cancel out the pinion angles. So if your front and rear pinion is say 6 degrees, then you would typically set the engine and trans close to that same 6* to have the offsetting angles at the u-joints. My rear angle is irrelevant with the CV shaft and my front axle is just over 6* so I am at the top of the spec for normal working angles but well within the limits of the u-joints. So in theory I should have angled it down another couple degrees.
So I went back to the 1st page of your thread and was surprised what time it was when, later.... I noticed the dog hadn't had lunch and was circling in the kitchen, I was hungry, and the house chores weren't getting done! It is encouraging to see your 5.0 in there. I have those darn coil and shock towers squeezing the 5.0 a bit, but that is for later to sort out.
I'll be using a CV in back, too, so the rear tcase output angle isn't a big concern for me either.
You got a lot done today. Way-to-go! And thanks for taking some time to think about my setup.
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post #899 of 1943 Old 11-21-2010, 08:18 PM
jth0033
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looks better and better each day! keep up the great work
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post #900 of 1943 Old 11-21-2010, 09:26 PM
cjdogtoy
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it's exiting to see it finally coming together great work.
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