Coiz 1979 CJ7 Frame Off Resto; picture crazy - Page 56 - JeepForum.com

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post #826 of 1943 Old 11-07-2010, 12:16 PM
jeepsterjc
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Very nice. As far as big stuff goes, a windshield and frame are the last to get. Looks awesome.

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post #827 of 1943 Old 11-07-2010, 01:41 PM
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Next time try dishwashing soap

1978 Cherokee, TBI 360/T400/QT...6.0/6L80/NP241C in the works...
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post #828 of 1943 Old 11-08-2010, 04:28 PM
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nice hops!
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post #829 of 1943 Old 11-11-2010, 03:44 PM
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Mike when are we going to see the windshield installed on the CJ? And the hood. I want to see those stripes!!
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post #830 of 1943 Old 11-11-2010, 04:13 PM
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I think I paid a glass shop $75 or so to install mine.. I am glad and never looked back.... They are real pain to install and not break the glass.. Three guys may be the trick pushing and pulling all together... Looks great....

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post #831 of 1943 Old 11-12-2010, 11:37 AM Thread Starter
Coiz
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I want to see it all together too. I get Monday off so I should have some time to get quite a few things done this weekend.

I'm still trying to figure out what to use to seal up the windshield hinges. I am not so concerned with water getting between the windshield/tub and the hinge itself, I want to seal around the holes in the tub so when water does get in there it will just flow out the bottom rather than into the holes and inside the cab.

My initial thoughts were to use that thin single sided foam weatherstripping that you would use between a camper shell and a truck bed. It is thin and compresses easily and should keep the water out. My only concern is that the foam might actually hold moisture. My other thought was to use a softer style o-ring that would compress and seal around the hole so any water should just run right around it. The last option would be to seal the whole thing tight with some sort of silicone but I know that most types can react with paint and cause premature corrosion.

This shows my weatherstrip and o-ring ideas.


Does anyone have an ingenious way to seal those off?

Mike
My build thread
1979 CJ7, FI 5.0L Ford, NP435, D300, Full floated D44 Detroit, D30 Detroit EZ Locker.
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post #832 of 1943 Old 11-12-2010, 12:05 PM
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I think the O-ring would be a great idea, I would be a bit concerned with the screw backing out over time with the o-ring in between it and the surface though.

Otherwise I think it's the far superior option

1985 CJ7 Project
Phase One : 5.3L Vortec/4L60E, Moser axles for AMC20, Twin Stick'd Dana300 - Completed
Phase Two: Bedliner, Rollcage, Seats, BESRK Rear Bumper w/ tire swing, Soft Top, and a few other goodies - Mostly Complete
Phase Three: Waggy 44 front, Scout D44 Rear, 4.56's, ARB's (F/R) SOA with YJ Springs, 35x12.50x15 BFG MT - Not Even Close to beginning

Also a mostly rust-free 1970 Scout 800A That I'll get to start working on someday...

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post #833 of 1943 Old 11-12-2010, 12:11 PM
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I'd try the O-ring idea, the foam I think would hold moisture and make things worse.

'83 CJ7 258I6 4-Speed Father Daughter Project - Using Monstaliner/Chassis Saver and Products from CrabTreeTool
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post #834 of 1943 Old 11-12-2010, 12:13 PM
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That paint sure looks great!!

Mike I like the o ring best. That won't stop moisture from getting under the bolt head and into the threads comepletely though. The silicone would be great if you could get something that's not going to attack the paint. You could even use that to seal under the bolt head. I'm thinking a call to one of the manufacturers might be a good step.

Just a thought, but does the same sealer they use around a windshield mess up paint? Haven't noticed but was wondering if that would work.
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post #835 of 1943 Old 11-12-2010, 12:14 PM
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What about using clear automotive seam sealer?

'83 CJ7 258I6 4-Speed Father Daughter Project - Using Monstaliner/Chassis Saver and Products from CrabTreeTool
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post #836 of 1943 Old 11-12-2010, 12:16 PM
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I'd go the non-corrosive silicone route, form a gasket style.
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post #837 of 1943 Old 11-12-2010, 12:43 PM Thread Starter
Coiz
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My entire old windshield seal, the cowl seal and the hinges were all covered with silicone. I might run to Napa and see if they might have either of these. The technical data sheets for both of these products state they are ok to use on painted surfaces. This would definitely be the better option at sealing the hinges as well as the cowl seal on the bottom and the lip that runs along the bottom of the windshield frame. I just want to make sure I'm not going to use something that will be corrosive to the paint.

3Mô Clear Auto Sealer


Or

Permatex - RTV Silicone Adhesive Sealant

Mike
My build thread
1979 CJ7, FI 5.0L Ford, NP435, D300, Full floated D44 Detroit, D30 Detroit EZ Locker.
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post #838 of 1943 Old 11-12-2010, 01:05 PM
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well i just read through all 56 pages and i want to say that this is amazing. i give you big props and your work is immaculate. i hope to one day do this to my 87'...well the full restoration at least
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post #839 of 1943 Old 11-12-2010, 01:14 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jth0033 View Post
well i just read through all 56 pages and i want to say that this is amazing. i give you big props and your work is immaculate. i hope to one day do this to my 87'...well the full restoration at least
I saw your name hanging around the bottom for quite a while. Thanks for taking the time to read through it and thank you for your comments.

Mike
My build thread
1979 CJ7, FI 5.0L Ford, NP435, D300, Full floated D44 Detroit, D30 Detroit EZ Locker.
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post #840 of 1943 Old 11-12-2010, 02:00 PM Thread Starter
Coiz
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New Subs

I got some new stereo components. I had some dual 10" Stillwater Kickers from back in the day.


They use to hit pretty hard with a true 60Wx2 amp. The amp no longer works so that is getting replaced. The subs still work but they are getting replaced too. One is missing the cone and both are just old and dusty.


Once I pulled them apart you can see how massive the magnets are.


So I picked up a couple new subs on the cheap from Amazon. They were only $40 a piece. I had to get the short or flat subwoofers to fit inside my truck boxes.


Notice the slight difference in the size of the magnets.


Comparing the new to the old.


I think they look pretty good. I know they are not truly 800W subs but I think they will work great for the ~80W each I plan to run them with.


I plan on, and should be able to, reuse the kicker grill covers.


I have to get the roll bar installed before I can mount these and I have to get the dash installed before I can mount the roll bar. I need to get the windshield on before I can install the dash so you can see how my assembly steps are all falling into line. I hope to get the windshield and dash installed this weekend. I'll need several extra bodies to get the roll bar into the tub.

Mike
My build thread
1979 CJ7, FI 5.0L Ford, NP435, D300, Full floated D44 Detroit, D30 Detroit EZ Locker.
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