The Jeep had a 6-point sport cage in it when I bought it but it was just the standard bolt to the floor design. I decided to buy the MORE roll bar tie-in kit for the front. Once I got the tub back on the frame I was able to get the roll bar mounted so I could bolt up the mounts and tack them in place.
Once I got the front tie-ins tacked on I really started looking at the way the stock bar mounts to the tub right behind the seats. It is bolted to a body channel, which is right above a body mount, and should be pretty strong I but figured this was the time to beef it up a little. I was checking out Fatman’s cage thread
and decided to tweak that idea a little bit. I started off with a 3”x 13”x1/8” plate to pinch the tub metal with the roll bar. It extends from the end of the roll bar all the way to the seat belt mounts so they are effectively tied-in as well. Next I welded on a 3/16” thick piece 6.5” long to match the mount on the roll bar. This was mainly just to take up space but obviously makes the part much stronger.
From there I started working on the main frame design. I used a ½” thick piece of horse stable rubber matting you can get at a Farm & Fleet as an insulating material. It‘s very dense rubber matting made from recycled rubber and should hold up very well. My friend uses strips of this stuff as the replaceable blade on his tractor’s snowplow. So I started with a piece of 3” x 6.5”x 3/16” steel. Next I welded on a piece of 1.5”x 3/16” angle to the upper half of the plate and drilled the 4 holes. This gave me a great shelf support design for the legs to the Jeep frame. Here I am holding up the 3/16” by 1.5” angle and plate to tie to the inner and outer frame rails.
Once I had it all tacked into place I decided to add another piece of angle between the two main spares to provide additional lateral support. Here is a good picture of the driver’s side ready to be clamped and welded to the frame. The two nuts on the left are the secure points for the seat belt mount.
For esthetics as well as rigidity I decided to box in the channel with another piece of 3/16” bar stock.
I debated for a while over whether or not I wanted to mess with the rear most mounting points. Every additional piece of metal I welded on seemed like more and more overkill. Well, I found a guy local selling a piece of 2” square by 54” and 3/16” thick for a good price so I decided to go with the traditional bat wings approach to support the rear mounts. A 3/16” plate is on top bolted to the roll bar with the same ½” rubber insulator between the body. Here is the driver’s side.
Of course, you have to cut out the inner fender supports to make room for the roll bar mount. Here is the passenger’s side.
After talking with Besrk about a rear bumper, I decided to weld on the MORE 3/16” rear crossmember reinforcement plate to help handle any additional load from all the crap that will be bolted to it. By crap I mean spare tire, Hi-Lift jack, gas can, ect.,.
Here they are after I got a coat or two of paint on them. I wish I could have got this done before I painted the frame with the HVLP gun.
Close up of the Driver’s side completely done. Not the prettiest things but I think it will hold up just fine.
After I was satisfied that my roll bar was sufficiently tied into the frame at all 6 points, I was looking at the roll bar itself and started scratching my chin.