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Unread 10-15-2010, 09:36 PM   #646
jeepsterjc
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Oooohhh- shiney stuff! Nice!
You'll be cooking that starter though... I used block hugger headers on my LT1 and fried the driver-side engine mount just the same way, but it was even in front of the header rather than behind... What about a small heat shield?

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Unread 10-15-2010, 09:45 PM   #647
Coiz
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It's so close I'm scared a heat shield might ground out, not really sure how I would mount one. I daily drove it for almost a year with it just like that before and never had any starter issues. I was thinking some non conductive header type wrap could help. If I run into issues a mini-starter would be another solution but they are awfully proud of those things.
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Unread 10-15-2010, 09:50 PM   #648
CjAl
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Coiz View Post
It's so close I'm scared a heat shield might ground out, not really sure how I would mount one. I daily drove it for almost a year with it just like that before and never had any starter issues. I was thinking some non conductive header type wrap could help. If I run into issues a mini-starter would be another solution but they are awfully proud of those things.
and i've not ever had one that fit and worked as it should. them things are a hassle
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Unread 10-15-2010, 09:55 PM   #649
CjAl
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Coiz View Post
It was always that close before and I never had a problem. I'll have to admit that I did price out a few mini-starters but think I would probably try some sort of heat shield before I bucked up for one of those if I did have a problem.

How close do you like it?


The dirt drives me crazy.
any chance of putting a 90degree bend in that terminal and mounting it from the other direction?
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Unread 10-15-2010, 09:59 PM   #650
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why dont you get a starter for a 92 mustang 5.0 they are the smaller size but instead of the $200+ for the aftermarket brands you can get them for about $115 from Autozone

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...mString=search

or $110 at Oreiley (prices including core charge yeah and they are for the cheap ones)

BesTest 03-0508X - Starter 1992 Ford Mustang | O'Reilly Auto Parts

they also came in every 3.8L, 5.8L, 4.9L from 1992 and up according to Orieleys compatability chart

Oh yea and 1997-2001 ford explorers with the 5.0 cant forget about those.

Last edited by markso125; 10-15-2010 at 10:09 PM..
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Unread 10-15-2010, 10:10 PM   #651
Coiz
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I'm about 99% sure the starter I have is the same one listed at Autozone for a 1990 Mustang. The more I dug into the wiring the more I found it matched better with a 1990 than it did with a 1992. Thankfully I had full access to both year wiring diagrams to figure it out. I'm going to continue to run what I've got until if/when a problem arises. That's the same starter that's been on it since 1997 when I first put the engine in.

If I wanted to try, I would probably have better luck bending the tab down than I would bending it up. Either way I would have to cut the bolt down. That's a pretty stout terminal though.
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Unread 10-16-2010, 12:45 AM   #652
oderalxjlaredo
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I think the concern is more for your electrical tape and wire loom on the power wire than the terminal itself. Man, that is a tight clearance. I hope it all works out ok in there.

You're doing awesome on this build, man - almost there!
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Unread 10-16-2010, 12:54 AM   #653
markso125
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Coiz View Post
I'm about 99% sure the starter I have is the same one listed at Autozone for a 1990 Mustang. The more I dug into the wiring the more I found it matched better with a 1990 than it did with a 1992.
No problem just a lower cost suggestion to a high dollar item, put one in my old maverick because it is next to impossible to get one of the standard starters up there with long tube headders.
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Unread 10-16-2010, 01:07 AM   #654
Coiz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oderalxjlaredo View Post
I think the concern is more for your electrical tape and wire loom on the power wire than the terminal itself.

You're doing awesome on this build, man - almost there!
Yeah, it was just an open wire with no loom around it before. I was thinking about cutting that back and putting on some heat shielding. I have some pieces that came with the Mustang HEGO's that I don't really need with the CJ exhaust. I can take one of those and add an 8" piece to the end.
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Unread 10-16-2010, 05:03 AM   #655
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I'd sure like to see and hear a u-tube video of the start up. Bet it'll sound sweet.

Have you considered a metal standoff to move the starter cable back a few inches? Coat the middle section of the bar with non-conductive epoxy to stand up to the heat. Should work to protect the cable, plus it'll give you a easy mount for a small heat shield between the starter and header.
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[URL="http://s1038.photobucket.com/albums/a462/E9Eaglekeeper/"]http://s1038.photobucket.com/albums/a462/E9Eaglekeeper/[/URL]
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Unread 10-16-2010, 11:19 AM   #656
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I might break out the video camera today but it might be hard to film and do what I need by myself.

I put in 5 gallons of fuel and I've laid the dash in place and made some initial connections. I've also got the steering column laying on the floor and connected. I filled the fuse box to power all the circuits I need and turned the key. I wanted to check as much of the wiring as I could before actually trying to start it.

First couple things I noticed.

The good:
1. I didn't see any smoke or hear any sparks.
2. The PCM commanded the fuel pump as expected.
3. The head lamps work on both HI and LOW beams.
4. Cooling fans work when commanded.

The bad:
1. The fuel pump cycled but sounds dry even though I primed the pump and pick up tube during installation.
2. LF side marker light is inop.
3. RF grill marker light is brighter than the LF.
4. Tail lights work but brake lights don't.
5. Various dash lights are inop.
6. The volt gauge reads 1.5V higher than actual.

I'm going to dig into a couple of these bugs before I try to get it running. I have a feeling they are going to be fairly simple faults. Of course I was expecting everything to be perfect.

I'll be back with updates.
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Unread 10-16-2010, 11:54 AM   #657
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Forget the stuff that don't work Mike and start that baby up, go drag some stranger off the street to help you video it too. We want action man.

It's looking good too by the way. Hey on a side note I doubt you have room for a heat shield either. Guess if that starter cooks you'll have in invest in one of the smaller ones.
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Unread 10-16-2010, 12:45 PM   #658
Coiz
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Quote:
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The bad:
1. The fuel pump cycled but sounds dry even though I primed the pump and pick up tube during installation.
I jumped the relay and let it run for a solid 30 seconds with no change. I hate running that pump dry as it is not good for them. I tried removing the schrader valve from the fuel line but it made no difference. I got under the Jeep and disconnected the line right after the filter, still nothing. I was in the process of pulling the line off the pump inlet when I heard it let out a good hiss. Cycled the key and I could hear it prime, then promptly shot fuel all over the place from the clamps I left loose.

I got everything connected back together and jumped the relay to let the pump run for several minutes. All sounds good with no leaks and fuel pressure appears fine.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Coiz View Post
2. LF side marker light is inop.
One of the wires on the push in bulb was screwed up. Works fine now. 60 second fix.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Coiz View Post
3. RF grill marker light is brighter than the LF.
Both marker lights are new Rugged Ridge replacements. There is a known issue with the wires being reversed in the connectors. Well mine was one of each. On one side the black wire was the blinker and the red was the running light. On the other side they were opposite so I had to simply swap the two terminals in the connector. Another 60 second fix.

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4. Tail lights work but brake lights don't.
I pulled off the brake switch and jumped the wires with no change. I turned off the tail lights and did it again, I had lights. Turned the tail lights back on and noticed they were much brighter than the brake lights I had just saw. I was thinking, there is no way I reversed those circuits because that's all factory harness I only spliced a trailer light connector into.

I removed the lenses and pulled a bulb. A quick look revealed the bulb was in 180* out. They are only supposed to go in the socket one way but both of mine could easily be installed either way. End result, turn the bulbs 180* and reinstall. Tail lights and brake lights now work perfectly along with the blinkers. Another simple fix.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Coiz View Post
5. Various dash lights are inop.
At first I just assumed this was a ground connection issue due to the way they ground through the base so I hooked up a jumper and still no go. I wiggled around the bulb and it started to flicker. I pulled the bulb out and found the positive terminal in the socket had some corrosion. I quickly scraped it up with the closest screw driver I could find and installed the bulb. It started to work. I took a piece of 400 grit same paper and scuffed every one of the terminal ends for the bulb connections. Here you can see the one I scuffed with a screw driver on the right and an untouched one on the left. They are all smooth and shiny now after the 400 grit sandpaper. It's amazing how that little bit of corrosion on the terminal is enough to keep the bulb from working.


Quote:
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6. The volt gauge reads 1.5V higher than actual.
I'll have to pull the gauge back out and take the bezel back off to adjust the needle on the armature. This is not critical so I'll save that for a later date.

Oil pump has been primed and the distributor installed. Time to dig my timing light out and see how this thing is going to crank.


I also noticed the thread topped 100,000 views today. Thanks to all the fellow Jeepers out there following along.
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Unread 10-16-2010, 12:51 PM   #659
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Glad all of those were simple fixes. Wish I were standing there when you get it started!! Congratulations on the 100,000 views. It's been great to watch!!
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Unread 10-16-2010, 01:09 PM   #660
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Damn. This is awsome. Bul like said before. Now we will have to get our kicks in another thread sooner rather than later

Lookin GOOD
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