Coiz 1979 CJ7 Frame Off Resto; picture crazy - Page 43 - JeepForum.com
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post #631 of 1943 Old 10-13-2010, 08:29 PM
Skerr
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How does it feel assembling the body? Kinda bitter-sweet?? She's beautiful!


Kerrdog
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post #632 of 1943 Old 10-14-2010, 09:38 AM
twildt
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i have a question about the frame. i have been looking at a lot of posts about frame off restorations and something is bugging me. i notice that every time someone restores their frame, they never do any sanding or painting on the inside of the frame, its just stays rusty...

my question is won't the frame rust from the inside out if you don't do something about it? is there nothing you can do to the inside of the frame? what if you cleaned it up and filled it with foam or something else to seal the weather out?

probably a dumb question but in a year or two im going to do a frame off restoration also so i am researching for all the right ideas.
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post #633 of 1943 Old 10-14-2010, 09:51 AM
jeepsterjc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twildt View Post
i have a question about the frame. i have been looking at a lot of posts about frame off restorations and something is bugging me. i notice that every time someone restores their frame, they never do any sanding or painting on the inside of the frame, its just stays rusty...

my question is won't the frame rust from the inside out if you don't do something about it? is there nothing you can do to the inside of the frame? what if you cleaned it up and filled it with foam or something else to seal the weather out?

probably a dumb question but in a year or two im going to do a frame off restoration also so i am researching for all the right ideas.
Same thoughts as many of us. This is one reason I bought a new frame... Thicker steel to boot. Some people pour in rust stopper and rotate the frame on a rotisserie. Others smash the frame with a hammer and if it doesn't cave in accept it as solid enough to use. There is a good thread on oiling frames going on right now, too.
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post #634 of 1943 Old 10-14-2010, 09:52 AM
243
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It would be almost impossible to sand the inside of the frame. I had the same concern as you so I powerwashed it, let it dry and poured a quart of Rutoleum rusty metal primer in each rail.

I believe another member used boiled linseed oil in his frame.

1978 Cherokee, TBI 360/T400/QT...6.0/6L80/NP241C in the works...
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post #635 of 1943 Old 10-14-2010, 10:03 AM
twildt
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i guess i also think about all those built-in nuts that are located on the inside of the frame that we use to mount steering gears and etc. i would think those would need repair/replacement and if not rust and rot...

you guys put a lot of money and time into these vehicles and i would hate to see the frame rust out on you in 2 years after all that effort and sweat poured into the restoration!!

how much money is spent on repairing the frame rather than spending the $1700.00 for a new one?
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post #636 of 1943 Old 10-15-2010, 12:06 PM
caanzaldua
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Don't want to hijack Mike's thread but checkout 84' Sebring Red CJ-7 Project - JeepsUnlimited.com Forums for information about using boiled linseed oil. Keith did a great job of preparing his frame with this stuff. I believe there are several other thread related to using this oil. Do a quick search.

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post #637 of 1943 Old 10-15-2010, 12:24 PM Thread Starter
Coiz
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As far as the frame, if I had to do it all again I probably would of had it acid dipped. I didn't realize there was a place within an hour that could have dipped it for $350 but hind sight is always 20/20. After the dipping I would have probably used the tape over the holes and the POR down the frame rails. The other thing that kept me from doing that was I didn't have a cherry picker or engine stand so I left the engine on the frame through the entire process. Add in having to buy those two pieces of equipment, plus dipping, travel to and from the place and the additional paint, it would have been close to an additional $800. If I already had an engine stand and picker it might have been different.

I did pressure wash the inside of the frame as good as I could before painting and am considering either using the boiled linseed oil or Eastwood's Internal Frame Coating.

Mike
My build thread
1979 CJ7, FI 5.0L Ford, NP435, D300, Full floated D44 Detroit, D30 Detroit EZ Locker.
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post #638 of 1943 Old 10-15-2010, 12:39 PM
79jeepincj7
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Awesome job! Can't wait to see her finished. I ordered a set of those white gauge faces as soon as I saw them on here

Wheel - Wreck - Wrench - Repeat!

The VIN says its a 79 CJ
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post #639 of 1943 Old 10-15-2010, 03:17 PM
chucker440
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just awesome more pics
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post #640 of 1943 Old 10-15-2010, 05:31 PM
Matt99362
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Coiz- you're doing a great job. Every time I come back to this build I am excited to see how far it's come. Much like everyone else, I'm very much looking forward to seeing it finished, and yet dreading that at the same time. It will mean having to find a new build to follow... :-)
twildt- the spray in foam would work. If memory serves Ford was using it in their frames a couple of years back. Not sure if they still do. There are some issues with that though. First, you would have to make sure the inside of the frame was completely rust free BEFORE applying it. Other wise you'd just trap the rust in there and it would continue to eat your frame. Acid dipping is probably the best way to do that because it works well, and is cheaper than all the over the counter stuff you can buy to do the same job yourself. It's also much quicker and cleaner for you. Personally, I would dip it in acid, then use a rust stopper like rustoleum or POR 15, and then I would fill it with foam. The nice thing about the foam is it also quiets down some road noise. Not such a concern in a Jeep, but every little bit helps.

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post #641 of 1943 Old 10-15-2010, 05:44 PM Thread Starter
Coiz
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Thanks guys.

In regards to the foam, Ford uses a special heat expanding foam and not the typical expandable stuff you can get at HD or Lowes. I would personally stay away from spraying that in my frame as I think it would have a tendency to trap moisture. If I remember right it was Mike Romain who had a horror story about someone using that in their frame and it was a disaster.

Mike
My build thread
1979 CJ7, FI 5.0L Ford, NP435, D300, Full floated D44 Detroit, D30 Detroit EZ Locker.
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post #642 of 1943 Old 10-15-2010, 07:10 PM Thread Starter
Coiz
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Starter Solenoid and Fan Temp Controller

I've got the cooling fan temperature controller mounted, I decided to attach it with SS rivets. I also mounted the starter solenoid in place. I ran the wire leads to the MAF and HEGO sensors along the same route below the solenoid. I 'T'ed off a lead from the grounding post to ground the starter solenoid body at the right side bolt. From there another wire continues down to the frame at the same connection point as the 4 gauge wire from the cylinder head. Just one more addition to the ground loop.


Here you can see the 4 gauge wires to the starter. The one on the left is the ground going directly to the battery negative post. The one on the right is the power feed from the solenoid.


Here is a shot of the grounding post showing how much room there is to the battery. I've got the battery pushed back as far as it will go and all the wires I need connected are on there. I'll watch for witness marks after driving it around and remove one of the washers if I have to. I don't think it is going to be a problem.


I've got one main 4 gauge ground wire coming off that post that still needs to be connected at the frame but that shouldn't keep me from being able to start it. I need to pull the battery back out so I can get to that wire to properly crimp on the terminal end.

Mike
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1979 CJ7, FI 5.0L Ford, NP435, D300, Full floated D44 Detroit, D30 Detroit EZ Locker.
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post #643 of 1943 Old 10-15-2010, 07:18 PM
Jim1611
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Mike the wiring is looking great. You're getting close to being able to start it up too!! We're all looking forward to that but maybe not quite as much as you are.

Hey do you think the headers are going to put off too much heat on the starter?
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post #644 of 1943 Old 10-15-2010, 07:23 PM Thread Starter
Coiz
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It was always that close before and I never had a problem. I'll have to admit that I did price out a few mini-starters but think I would probably try some sort of heat shield before I bucked up for one of those if I did have a problem.

How close do you like it?


The dirt drives me crazy.

Mike
My build thread
1979 CJ7, FI 5.0L Ford, NP435, D300, Full floated D44 Detroit, D30 Detroit EZ Locker.
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post #645 of 1943 Old 10-15-2010, 07:25 PM Thread Starter
Coiz
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Radiator Hoses

I've got the coolant hoses installed with new SS hose clamps. You can see the part numbers I used in the pictures and how well they fit. I bought them from Autozone and did not have to trim either one. Keep in mind this is also with a 1" body lift. I think the top hose would work with just about any 5.0L conversion. These did not come with the internal wound springs so I did take the springs out of my old hoses and installed them into the new ones. The spring keeps the hose from collapsing, incase you didn't know.


The bottom hose was just a little off from perfect and tried to kink a little bit without the wound spring installed. With the spring it actually fits pretty nice.


Here you get a picture of both of them.


It's got right at 3 gallons of 50/50 coolant/distilled water in it. Time to test fit the dash and start filling in the fuse box to test some things out.

Mike
My build thread
1979 CJ7, FI 5.0L Ford, NP435, D300, Full floated D44 Detroit, D30 Detroit EZ Locker.
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