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Unread 09-16-2010, 11:17 PM   #526
Coiz
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Wiring

I've got all the wiring cleaned up. I basically laid it out on my driveway as if it was in the Jeep. Here is the harness that starts by the fuse box and goes to the rear.


I stripped the convoluted tubing back to get to all the wires. I couldn't remove it completely due to the grommet at the rear.


Up near the connector was a ball of wires all tied up with a small four pin connector. One wire was red with a fuse holder and the rest went toward the rear of the Jeep. They were never hooked to anything near the fuse box and they ended about half way to the rear. I am guessing they were for the dome lamp but don't know why there are four wires. I took them out.


The main engine harness is on the right side and the head light harness is on the left. I had already stripped most of the engine harness half.


The harness was pretty dirty.


After reading different things, I decided to clean it with Marine Clean. Sprayed it on diluted and wiped it down with a sponge. I used a tooth brush on the connectors. It cleaned up great. Notice the relays near the PCM connector, I am relocating those to under the hood so it takes up less space under the dash.


Here is the entire under hood harness striped and cleaned. I dried them off with a towel and strung them across the bed of my truck to dry in the sun for the rest of the day.


Here is the dash harness.


Picture of the fuse box. The white wire controlled my 3 way switch to the cooling fan. I'm pretty sure I remember the PO had wired the reverse lights to the dome light switch because I could turn them on and off while wheeling at night. I plan on fixing that correctly so the transmission controls the reverse lights. Also notice the jumper wire. I never knew why that was there and why my volt gauge was hot at all times. When I pulled the ignition switch I found the feed to the yellow accessory wire was folded over and not making contact to the circuit. Not knowing what was wrong the PO must have ran that jumper to get the power to the other side of the box.


A picture of the back side of the fuse block.


I got it cleaned up and most of the wires sorted. I'll finish taping them off once it is installed and I can determine the exact location and length of everything.


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Unread 09-16-2010, 11:26 PM   #527
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Cool
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Unread 09-17-2010, 05:56 AM   #528
Ken4444
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Hey... what does that red wire do?

heh... just kidding.
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Unread 09-17-2010, 06:20 AM   #529
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Mike you amaze me. I look at a mess of wires and want to throw it all away and buy new and you can take practically anything and make it look new. I'm gonna have to take lessons from you, in fact I have been for quite some time!
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Unread 09-17-2010, 08:31 AM   #530
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Wow, this has been a blast to read. Already hit the Crawl button and can't wait to see it finished.
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Unread 09-17-2010, 10:10 AM   #531
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken4444 View Post
Hey... what does that red wire do?
It opens the trunk
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Unread 09-17-2010, 10:01 PM   #532
markso125
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Wow this read just killed 3 hours worth of work on a friday night
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Unread 09-18-2010, 08:01 AM   #533
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I mean, how do you describe washing the wiring? Everything has been said. Mike, you did it again!!
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Unread 09-18-2010, 11:53 AM   #534
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Wiring

^^^ Thanks guys.

I started with the wiring in the back and laid everything out where it needed to go. Normally the brake lights are grounded via the body by the three bolts that hold the housing on. Mine will still be grounded through the body that same way but I am also running a dedicated ground to all the lights in the back. Here you can see the wire that connects to the grounding plate for the bulbs. I just noticed I crimped that end on before I got the adhesive heat shrink, I'll fix those the next time I'm soldering. The side marker light ground wire is spliced into the green ground wire right behind the housing then it travels to the driver's side. If your wondering what all the white tape is for, read this.


This is where it all comes together on the driver's side. I know it looks all jumbled up but I am pulling it down over a foot from where they actually need to go just to take the picture. Once bolted in the correct position I pulled them all together and taped them up nice. Here is a picture with everything labeled. The bolt gets installed into a hole I drilled and tapped into the rear most roll bar frame spar. So now everything is tied to the body and the frame with one extra wire heading towards the front which will tap into the body and battery.


The extra ground wire running to the front makes a stop near the dash at the parking brake pedal then heads to the engine compartment for the battery. The extra case ground wire you see hanging will also be hooked up there as that is the ground for all of the instrument panel lights. I'll also add a couple jumpers for the speedometer case and radio. This is one CJ that will not have ground issues.


So I got the dash harness mostly in place and only need to do some minor taping once it's installed. Not sure if I'll cover this in convoluted tubing. Being inside I think that would be a bit of overkill but we'll see.
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Unread 09-18-2010, 01:25 PM   #535
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Mike the wiring looks great. I like the idea of adding grounds. Anything I have trouble with as far as lights or such has almost always turned out to be a bad ground.

You're soldering all of the connections, right? Then sealing them up with shrink tubing. I want to be sure and do this part right on mine too.
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Unread 09-18-2010, 08:10 PM   #536
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Yes Jim, everything is soldered using 96% silver bearing solder. Just about every electrical component will somehow be connected to the body, frame and battery on my Jeep. I bought two little .25oz strands of solder from Radio Shack for around $4 a piece. After burning through most of those those I found an 8 oz roll at home Depot for ~$10. I wish I would have found that larger roll first. I was going to show people how I solder to pass along a couple tips that might help somebody out. Since you brought it up, I guess now is the time.

I started with the standard butt connectors that come with no insulation. Notice the one in the cutter area.


I cut them in half to make them smaller which happens to double my number of connectors. If you have sharp cutters it will not crimp the connector but it will leave a little material that needs to be cleaned up.


The metal is so soft it takes about a second to be reamed out with a small drill bit.


I wish I could have just bought packages of the 16-14 connectors without the smaller 22-18. The 14-16 work great for connecting two wires at a time. If you have to add a third wire for some reason it is pretty easy to spread it slightly open with a small screw driver and still get a good crimp on all three of them.


Slide in the two wires from each side and make the crimp, don't forget to slide on your heat shrink tube first.


Apply heat to the butt connector but apply the solder to the wires. You'll need at least a 100 watt soldering gun to effectively rewire a Jeep. The 145w setting works wonders.


Last but not least, slide the heat shrink tubing over the connection and apply heat to shrink it down. Notice the glue coming out the ends which makes it weather proof. They tell you not to use open flame but a lighter sure seems to work fine if you know how to control the flame. Hint: It doesn't take much. Notice there are a couple wires I have terminated. I just slipped some heat shrink over the end and melted it down, waited about ten seconds and crimped the end until the glue came out. They are now sealed.


By cutting the connectors in half I end up with twice as many connectors, use less solder (which equals less time heating) and also use less heat shrink because there is less area to cover. You can see one small piece of the smallest sized heat shrink left and the rest of the three other bags. The heat shrink was $6-12 per bag depending on the size. You can see how I purchased a box of the 10 gauge butt connectors. I cut the insulation off with a pair of wire cutters and either cut them in half for combining multiple small gauge wires or use them as is for the junction of two 10 gauge wires, such as the cooling fans. With all the ends, I remove the plastic insulation and replace it with the adhesive heat shrink.
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Unread 09-18-2010, 08:55 PM   #537
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Mike- Great info. Thanks for posting up the bags of heat-shrink. Now I know what to get. Also, I enjoyed your demo with the reflective tape. I never would have considered that. I probably would have painted them silver. It was important information and well done.
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Clay's Build Thread
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/cl...hread-1061897/
Scott's Build Thread
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/sc...5-cj7-1147913/
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http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/f...-okee-1445206/
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Unread 09-19-2010, 02:52 AM   #538
Coiz
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More wiring

^^^ Thank you Scott.

I laid out the engine harness into it's typical location. Here is the general idea for the PCM. Now you can see why I need to relocate those relays to the engine compartment.


I temporarily installed the battery tray to figure out where everything was going to go. Here you see a picture of the BJB (Battery Junction Box) out of a 2006 Hybrid Escape. One of my dealers replaced the harness on an insurance job and was going to throw it away. I had them cut off the BJB for me. You can see it zip tied to where I want to mount it. It came empty of fuses and relays, I filled it with $5 worth of salvage yard parts. FYI, only one of those larger fuses is $4.49 at Autozone.


I searched the salvage yard for a couple hours hoping to find a mount I could use with the least modifications as possible. I found this one off an early nineties Taurus which matched up to the mounting tangs on one side of the BJB. In this picture it is already trimmed to fit. The mounting tangs that matched were on the wrong side of the BJB so I had to turn it 180 degrees from what I originally planned. In the end it was not that big of a deal. I plan to pull the battery tray and this back off for a coat of POR Chassis Cote before final installation. Rattle can paint just does not hold up.


In this picture notice I added another 5 slot relay box which will be mounted just above the battery with the harness running behind it. Here is where I get to merge a 1992 Mustang engine harness, a 2006 Hybrid Escape BJB and five additional relays. How many typical CJ owners would see this and instantly fall into the fetal position and start sucking their thumb?


This is the assortment of electrical diagrams I am using to bring this all together. Left side is all the Mustang 5.0L engine, charging and starting system diagrams. The top is for the Contour cooling fans and the right side is all the information I had to decipher to map out the Escape BJB.


A close up of my chicken scratch figuring out what everything does and where I want it to go. I recorded the wire's colors and size. I wrote down which fuses controlled what relays and protect which loads. I basically had to figure out how all of the stuff in the box interrelated with itself then decide what I wanted to hook to what. I plan to make a nice two page summary on the computer for reference once I'm all finished. I essentially moved the PCM power relay, a back up PCM relay(due to the way the box was wired internally), the fuel pump relay and both L&R low beams to the BJB. The aux relay box contains cooling fans one and two, a spare (probably for fog lamps) and L&R high beam relays. After all that I only have 10 outputs and two micro relays unused.
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Unread 09-19-2010, 05:17 AM   #539
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Coiz View Post
How many typical CJ owners would see this and instantly fall into the fetal position and start sucking their thumb?
Hey that's the way I end up most of the time!

Looks great as usual!
As all of your work does, this is gonna make my relay setup look very amateur!



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Unread 09-19-2010, 06:59 AM   #540
Jim1611
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Mike you explain it so well that you have me thinking even I can wire this thing up. I may be overestmating myself there a bit. I plan to see.

Thanks for posting the info.
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