Coiz 1979 CJ7 Frame Off Resto; picture crazy - Page 27 - JeepForum.com
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Unread 08-03-2010, 07:52 PM   #391
Coiz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Exposed View Post
Looking great Mike..... Lots of work and it is really showing now... The buffing is very slow and very cautious to not go through the clear.. Even though you feel good about the thickness, you can cut through it in a heartbeat if not careful..... It is going to be one first class ride when finished.......
You're right Calvin the buffing is slow going. Just trying to take my time to make sure I don't break through the clear anywhere.

Quote:
Originally Posted by FamillyCJ7 View Post
What kind of gun did you use to spray the raptor? What size tip and at what PSI?
I used the Shutz gun that came with the kit I bought from TPtools. I sprayed it at about 40-45 psi. You can change the texture by changing the distance from the surface you are spraying. Close up is more fluid looking while further away gives it a more gritty look.


Quote:
Originally Posted by mvigo View Post
fantastic! I can't wait to see that Jeep with a little mud on there...
Ha, me too. I would rather see mud on it from wheeling than dust on it from sitting.

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Unread 08-03-2010, 10:37 PM   #392
jeffyjensen
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Coiz View Post
I would rather see mud on it from wheeling than dust on it from sitting.
that should be your signature
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Unread 08-06-2010, 11:24 PM   #393
Coiz
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^^^ Good suggestion.

I haven't had a lot of time to work on the Jeep due to some crazy workload lately but I've finally got the buffing done on the tub and just installed the first piece. Any guesses on what it was?
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Unread 08-07-2010, 06:34 AM   #394
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The first two pieces to make it look "real"..........fenders!

Now quit messing with everybody and post some progress pictures.
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Unread 08-07-2010, 12:17 PM   #395
Coiz
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Heater Box

Nope, not the fenders. I have to much engine work to do to have those in my way just yet. The first part bolted to the tub was the fresh air inlet, 4 SS screws and it was easy.

I never detailed my heater box refurbishment so I guess I'll do that now.

I had to get the heater box finished up and ready for install. I did most of the clean and paint a while back but just finally got it all back together. Here it is all torn down.


Missing the spring on the fresh air inlet.


All of the old worn out foam on the mode doors.


Washed up and ready for paint.


I sprayed it with the Rustoleum gloss black vinyl paint.


The rest of the pieces painted.


I painted the backing plate and all of the mode doors with POR15. I used 1/4" weather strip to replace all of the worn out foam. I then used the high temp aluminum tape on an overlap just to make sure the weather strip would not come off. In this picture I just started with the aluminum tape. I taped all around the door but left only foam on any edge that was an actual sealing surface.


This was also some generic weather strip I purchased at Farm and Fleet and attached it by spraying both the heater core and the foam with 3M spray adhesive, wait 30 seconds and stick it in place. It wont come off.


More weather strip I purchased at F&F that has adhesive on one side. This is to seal the backing plate to the main box.


Here it is all finished off.


You can see how nicely the heater core is sealed off. Any air passage through there has to go through the core and not around it to maximize the heat. I'm not overly pleased at the connection tubes on my new heater core but the one I took out wasn't much better. I had replaced my heater core 13 years ago and it had not gotten much use. Although it was not leaking, I figured I might as well replace it while I've got it all apart.


Here are the seals I placed around the passenger's fresh air inlet. I painted the foam black since it is visible from inside the cab.


Here is the fresh air inlet all painted and put back together.


I purchased a replacement spring for the fresh air door controls. If you need to purchase one of these I found this at my local ACE Hardware in their spring drawers and this is spring #111. It's a perfect fit.


I was also missing the spring for the passenger side fresh air door. I also got this at ACE and is spring #102. Also a perfect fit and helps hold the door completely open or completely closed depending on which mode you have selected. I used black screws on the front of this since they are visible. The one silver screw at the top can not be seen when the box is installed in the Jeep.


Here it is all put back together. Notice I used the same 2" foam and 3M spray adhesive to add the seal around the blower motor. That's to help seal off air from coming into the cab from the engine compartment. I also cut some rubber isolators for the four mounting studs and added a ground wire directly to the case of the blower motor via one of the mounting bolts.
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Last edited by Coiz; 08-07-2010 at 12:33 PM..
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Unread 08-07-2010, 12:40 PM   #396
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Should be nice and tight. Can't wait to hear a report how its function is affected by the weatherstripping. Can't imagine not having "rogue" air blowing dirt around the cab! Nice work, as always. You have amazing patience.
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Clay's Build Thread
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/cl...hread-1061897/
Scott's Build Thread
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/sc...5-cj7-1147913/
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http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/f...-okee-1445206/
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Unread 08-07-2010, 06:23 PM   #397
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Clutch Pedal Rod

Since I added the 1" Daystar body lift I have to extend my clutch rod by 1". I have already lowered the bell crank mount on the tub so now I have to lengthen the rod. The rod is a 1/2" thick and I had originally planned to just cut it and use a 3" metal sleeve to weld it back together at the correct length. I bought the sleeve today and it was $15. Before I ever left the hardware store parking lot I decided to go a different route. I went back inside and picked up a 1/2" x 13 die, a 1/2" x 1.25" bolt and a two pack of 1/2" couplers for a total of $11.


You want to change it's length on the engine compartment side after is has exited the tub. Here are all of the parts and the area that will be lengthened. Notice it is measured out at 4".


Here I've cut the head off of the 1.25" long bolt so it is right at 1" long and placed it in position. I'm sitting right at 5" long.


I took the short end and lightly beveled the end with my grinder. Next I used my new die and slowly cut threads onto the rod. It took a minute to get it to bite but once it started it cut pretty nice.


I gave both ends of the rod at least 3/4" worth of threads. I marked the center on the piece of all thread and applied a generous amount of lock-tite.


I turned the all thread half way in then screwed on the other coupler and tightened them together.


Last I threaded the rod back together and tightened it down pretty hard. The attachment points were just barely out of correct orientation when cranked down so I took the short end of the rod and slowly removed metal from the end until is was just right.


Now I always have the option to return the rod back to stock length or adjust it to just about any length I wish. Time to prep it for paint. I will probably paint it at the same time as my bumper.
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Unread 08-09-2010, 06:51 AM   #398
DiveSherpa
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Nice work on the heater box. I just pulled mine out on Sunday (8-8-10) as part of getting my tub ready to come off the frame. While I was doing that I thought about how I would go about cleaning it all up AND replacing much of the rotted foam. I also really appreciate the info on the springs, that will prove to be a nice time saver. Nice guide and great images of the process. Thanks!

KC
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Unread 08-09-2010, 12:06 PM   #399
Coiz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DiveSherpa View Post
Nice work on the heater box. I just pulled mine out on Sunday (8-8-10) as part of getting my tub ready to come off the frame. While I was doing that I thought about how I would go about cleaning it all up AND replacing much of the rotted foam. I also really appreciate the info on the springs, that will prove to be a nice time saver. Nice guide and great images of the process. Thanks!

KC
No problem. Here is another great thread on cleaning and resealing the heater box. He used sheet foam and cut templates. I looked into the same stuff from McMaster but determined I could get the foam from Farm & Fleet to work just as good for 1/6 of the cost.
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Unread 08-09-2010, 04:13 PM   #400
DIX03TJ
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wow, those pictures after the first stage of polish with the reflection in them show just how detailed you are with this build. Unreal so far, can't wait to see the finished product
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Unread 08-11-2010, 11:07 PM   #401
Coiz
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I haven't had any time to work on the CJ this week.

I bought a Rugged Ridge HD steering box mount that showed up several weeks ago. I wasn't overly please with its' condition.


I did make the time to clean it up and brush on a coat of POR Chassis Cote Black.


I also already told you I got the fresh air inlet mounted. Exciting stuff!
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Unread 08-12-2010, 04:45 AM   #402
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You have enough room for jamb nuts on either side of the couplers, it might save you some aggravation down the road.

You did get a crappy brace, the RR brace I received had no flaws at all.


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Unread 08-12-2010, 04:45 AM   #403
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Wow, that bracket is disappointing! But you made it look good...
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"Contemplate the mangled bodies of your countrymen, and then say 'what should be the reward of such sacrifices?' ... If ye love wealth better than liberty, the tranquility of servitude than the animated contest of freedom, go from us in peace. We ask not your counsels or arms. Crouch down and lick the hands which feed you. May your chains sit lightly upon you, and may posterity forget that you were our countrymen!" —Samuel Adams

Clay's Build Thread
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/cl...hread-1061897/
Scott's Build Thread
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/sc...5-cj7-1147913/
Fallon (and Dad) Build Thread
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/f...-okee-1445206/
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Unread 08-12-2010, 04:56 AM   #404
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This has to be one of the best looking CJ's I've ever seen, and it's not even close to done yet I love the attention to detail, not to mention the fact its becoming like the offspring of a GT500 and a CJ
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Unread 08-12-2010, 11:26 AM   #405
Coiz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 243 View Post
You have enough room for jamb nuts on either side of the couplers, it might save you some aggravation down the road.
Good call. For some reason that never crossed my mine. There should be enough thread already on the long side and I can always add more thread to the short piece. Looks like I'll be taking that back apart. It will give me the chance to see how well the Lock-tite holds. Technically they should not be able to turn when mounted since both ends with be captured in their brackets but I'll probably add the nuts now anyway. Thanks for adding more work Dave.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Skerr View Post
Wow, that bracket is disappointing! But you made it look good...
Yeah, I picked it up from a place online for about $15 cheaper than anywhere else I looked. Now I know why. Judging by the box and the main parts it looks like it was purchased and returned a few times. All of the hardware was new so who knows. It should mount up fine.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DcMuff View Post
This has to be one of the best looking CJ's I've ever seen, and it's not even close to done yet I love the attention to detail, not to mention the fact its becoming like the offspring of a GT500 and a CJ
Thanks for the comments. I had the Cobra theme in mind for quite a few years and always wondered if it might be "too much". I know some hardcore "Jeepers" may be turned off by it but I'm trying to keep it tasteful. So far I would have to say I think it looks pretty bad ***! Now I just need to find a new GT500 engine for it instead of my early nineties version.
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Last edited by Coiz; 08-12-2010 at 09:12 PM..
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