Coiz 1979 CJ7 Frame Off Resto; picture crazy - Page 18 - JeepForum.com

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post #256 of 1943 Old 05-19-2010, 12:24 PM Thread Starter
Coiz
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Originally Posted by Jim1611 View Post
Don't think I've taken the time to thank you and all the guys that have posted great information on your thread. I've learned allot of useful things by following along.

Thanks a bunch!!
You're welcome, thanks for following along. That's the whole point of sharing these builds. There is all kinds of good info and ideas floating around all of these builds. The problem is when your trying to find something you know you have seen before but can't remember exactly who's it was or what page of their build it was on.

I got the tub on the frame and all the body mounts loosely installed. I also got the holes drilled for the brake lights, marker lights, rear fender flares and the fuel filler bezel. Next I need to get the new front fenders installed so I can check the clearance near the shock mounts and trim as needed. I've read in multiple places that the replacement fenders are not trimmed correctly around the shock mounts. Then I'll drill the holes for the front fender flares and bolt all the panels together for a final test fit. Once I am sure I have all the parts and pieces I will need for assembly I will break it back down and finish any touch up with the easy sand filler and final coats of primer. I'm hoping to start shooting color on the weekend of June 12th or it may be the 19th. You never know how things are going to go.


Mike

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1979 CJ7, FI 5.0L Ford, NP435, D300, Full floated D44 Detroit, D30 Detroit EZ Locker.

Last edited by Coiz; 05-22-2010 at 01:30 AM.
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post #257 of 1943 Old 05-20-2010, 07:38 AM
Jim1611
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I forget where things are too. I started a "Jeep stuff" folder and have enough in that I can't find things as easy as I'd like so then I started more folders and broke it down in body, frame, axles etc. Maybe someday I'll get organized, not my strong point. lol

We're all waiting on that paint job Coiz, don't feel like there's any pressure on you though.


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(Crabtree Shackle Hangers)

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post #258 of 1943 Old 05-20-2010, 11:09 AM
Gigeroff
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This is looking totally awesome, I'll be watching this.

Keep up the great work!

1949 Willys jeep truck. 2wd, 2.8l, T90E-1, Timken. Under construction.
1953 Willys jeep truck. 4wd, 2.2l, T90A/Spicer 18, Timken/Dana 25. Parts...or Cummins 4bt...?
1956 Willys jeep truck. 4wd, no drivetrain. Big back window.
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post #259 of 1943 Old 05-21-2010, 07:50 AM
wanabejeeper
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Paint question for you.... I'm ok with body work and the build up of primer to smooth for finish. I was thinking of taking the primered rolling jeep to my local body shop for finish. They use a multi-part finish paint and told me I had to use a 2 part primer. Its been years since I've shot any paint and the technology has changed so much I've never even used the hvlp gun. I used to use a metal etch primer to cover bare metal and build up a one part primer base over the body work sanding as I go to 400 grit. It seems much easier then mixing but I dont know is there a way to cross link the base to a 2 part primier for finish or should I just learn to work with the 2 part? For instance how do you manage how much paint to mix if your just covering a panel for more sanding?

Thanks for any advice.

87 YJ The Original!

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It goes in that barrel you wheel out to the street once a week.

My build thread
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post #260 of 1943 Old 05-21-2010, 11:03 AM Thread Starter
Coiz
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If they are going to be using a two part paint BC/CC then you will definitely want to use a two part primer. Single part primers get hard as the solvents evaporate after spraying. If you wipe down a single part primer with paint thinner the paint will come off on the rag as the thinner basically reactivates the paint. If you wipe down a two part primer with paint thinner nothing happens except for cleaning the surface. This is because the paint had a hardener added and once cured is much more resistant to solvents. So if you try to paint a two part paint over a single part primer, the reducers and activators in the two part paint will react with the single part paint and cause it to try and become liquid again and lift right off the metal. You'll have major adhesion problems and a lot of wrinkling and spider webs.

As far as the difference in application between the two, there is not a lot of difference. Any paint shop will sell mixing cups with all the different ratios printed on the side for proper mixing of different amounts of paint. Some of it is trial and error. If I were only painting a fender, I would only go with say 100ml. If I were going to coat the tub, I would probably go with 5-600ml. Once activated the paint I am using only has a one hour pot life so you do want to mix the correct amount to minimize waste. Here is a picture I found online that shows a guy mixing 400ml of paint with a 4:1:1 with primer, hardener and reducer. So you would fill with primer to the first 4 on the far left, add hardener until you hit the 4 on the green strip then add reducer to the 4 on the purple strip. So the top of the purple strip would be your final volume of paint ready to be stirred and sprayed. Hope that helps.

Mike

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1979 CJ7, FI 5.0L Ford, NP435, D300, Full floated D44 Detroit, D30 Detroit EZ Locker.
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post #261 of 1943 Old 05-21-2010, 04:17 PM
wanabejeeper
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Hey Mike, Thanks that really helped a lot!

87 YJ The Original!

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It goes in that barrel you wheel out to the street once a week.

My build thread
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post #262 of 1943 Old 05-22-2010, 11:11 AM
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nice build
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post #263 of 1943 Old 05-22-2010, 11:36 AM Thread Starter
Coiz
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^^^ Thanks.

I got the front fenders placed into position and found the shock mount cutouts were in the wrong location. It was pointed out to me that the cutout is in the correct location for 82-86 CJ's but not for the 76-81's, even though they are advertised for 76-86. I guess I should have converted to the high mounts. Either way, they needed to be trimmed.


Nothing 15 seconds with my angle grinder couldn't fix. I'll get that cleaned up once I pull the fender back off.


The other side was the same way so no need for pictures of that. The fitment is questionable and took some pretty heavy prying and twisting to get them close to lined up. I think I might have to enlarge a few of the mounting holes to make everything bolt together a little easier.

I spent about four hours sanding last night giving everything a good once over while mainly using fine grit sponges. I will say that I was pleasantly surprised by how many of the imperfections I found were able to be sanded out. I have a lot less touch up filler work then I was expecting. Time to hit the garage to finish test fitting all of the parts then do my touch up filler work. If I can shoot primer again tomorrow I will be one weekend ahead of schedule, hope I didn't just jinx myself. Here is how the disaster area known as my garage currently sits.

Mike

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1979 CJ7, FI 5.0L Ford, NP435, D300, Full floated D44 Detroit, D30 Detroit EZ Locker.
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post #264 of 1943 Old 05-22-2010, 07:31 PM
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Everything looks great! Alot more work than I would have done! I did a frame off on mine about 10 years ago. Sandblasted my frame, made repairs to the rear, and POR15 everything exactly as you have here. Only difference is I skipped all that pesky welding and just thru a nice rust free YJ tub on it. It does have one rust spot now where the driver's door opening meets the cowl that I need to fix but otherwise has held up well.

I do have one question.. Did you or are you going to topcoat the frame? Reason I ask this is because I didn't because I figured it was underneath and out of the sun. Well let me tell you now that I wish I had because the POR15 has began to degrade even past the chalky white they speak of over the years. I did mine in '98. Just a heads up for ya since you're putting so much work into this.

'85 CJ-7 Laredo currently under construction.


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post #265 of 1943 Old 05-22-2010, 11:00 PM Thread Starter
Coiz
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Everything looks great!

I do have one question.. Did you or are you going to topcoat the frame? .
Thanks. I did topcoat the frame with two coats of the POR Blackcote over the POR15.

Mike

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1979 CJ7, FI 5.0L Ford, NP435, D300, Full floated D44 Detroit, D30 Detroit EZ Locker.
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post #266 of 1943 Old 05-30-2010, 10:27 AM Thread Starter
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I spent 17 hours sanding and priming yesterday from 9:30 AM to 3:30 AM. My hands hurt! Most everything is ready for the final wet sanding. It's a little too warm to shoot color today but I might start anyway.

Mike

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post #267 of 1943 Old 05-30-2010, 10:32 AM
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Good luck Mike, I am sure it will turn out great

Dave's 78 Build
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post #268 of 1943 Old 05-30-2010, 10:53 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks. I made a last minute color change. It is still white but but I decided to switch from Oxford White to High Performance White. I saw an Oxford White Ranger parked next to a HP White Mustang at one of my dealers and knew I had to change it. I already have a gallon of the Oxford white and it has a bluish gray tint while the HP has a yellowish tint. I only bought a half gallon of the HP white so I will lay down two coats of the Oxford for coverage then spray the HP White for final color. The yellow and orange tints in the HP White is what makes it pop as a super bright white while in the sun.

Here is an example of Oxford White:


Here is an example of the HP White.

Mike

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post #269 of 1943 Old 05-30-2010, 02:15 PM
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Good choice Mike, a lot of people think white is white until you get them together. And I know what you mean when you find a white that grabs your attention. I was sure I wanted Toyota's Blizzard Pearl but I saw a late model European car last week that had a stunning medium bright white pearl paint. Now I just have to find the make and model and see it up close.

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post #270 of 1943 Old 05-30-2010, 08:15 PM
BlkCJ7Laredo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 243 View Post
Good choice Mike, a lot of people think white is white until you get them together. And I know what you mean when you find a white that grabs your attention.
So true.. Same with black! My tub and fenders are painted with PPG's basic black, I think at the time it was called Starthane.. And I had the hood and tailgate painted later and the guy used Dupont stuff. Two different blacks. The Dupont seems to be a little deeper than the PPG. Always make sure to get the color you want mixed.. I also have an '04 Mustang Cobra and the front fender on it was painted because the PO hit a tire casing on the highway.. Must be his body man thought black was black too because it doesn't match. Great finish on it, better than the factory paint on the rest of the car, but none of that means jack if the color isn't right.

I do agree that the HP white on the GT500 has a lot more pop than the Oxford White on the 6 banger above it..

'85 CJ-7 Laredo currently under construction.


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