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Unread 05-10-2010, 10:45 AM   #241
testar77
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I am absolutely twitching to see how this finshes out!! Anything new??

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Unread 05-11-2010, 06:28 PM   #242
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Shooting 2K Primer

Quote:
Originally Posted by testar77 View Post
I am absolutely twitching to see how this finshes out!! Anything new??
LOL, and as a first post. Thanks! I didn't mean to keep you in suspense.

Everything was ready to be sanded and painted with the 2K Urethane Primer. I pretty much either used the DOA or hand, block or sponge sanded every piece of bodywork with 220 grit paper. That was a lot of work!

I had sprayed the tub with two lights coats of primer in the fall but it was with Acrylic Lacquer. Just about every painter I talked to said it would not hurt to paint the 2K Urethane directly over it but they also suggested to sand most of it off if it was put on light. I gave it a really quick once over with 220.


I decided to take it all the way off. I only spent 20 minutes and used three sanding disks to get it back to the filler layer and Tie-primer. This was after it had been washed and dried. Doesn't it look terrible?


Everyone likes to see an action shot! Notice the fresh sunburn from brewing beer outside for the AHA Big Brew Day the day before. The weather was perfect that weekend for brewing and painting.


Here it is after three coats of primer, still a little wet as I took this right after I finished.


This picture was taken about one hour after I finished spraying.


I sanded the fenders with 220 and sprayed three coats on the outer surfaces. The inner and outer fender wells only got one solid coat since they will be scuffed and Raptor'ed. It also helped to save on paint as those things make up some real estate with all three sides. The passenger's side.


Driver's side.


Next part to get the gray was the roll bar.


The grill came out nice. I have two minor spots to touch up.


One of the windshield frame.


Here is the tailgate all sanded, washed and ready to be shot.


Three coats later.


They tell you a 5 minute flash time between coats, the problem is that it takes 5 minutes just to spray half the hood. I was using a 1.4 tip while I should have been using a 1.8.


The hood came out nice.


So here is how my garage sat for a couple weeks while on travel for work and a few days off riding my GSXR at Mid-Ohio. Notice there is no dash? I had it hanging in a separate room and spaced it out.


The chassis is basically done and covered with a few layers of plastic ready for me to gather a few friends to help me lift the tub back on. Then it gets the final fitments of all the parts and the last of the final detail touch up work. I'll sand with 400 and then give it two more coats of primer. Final sanding will be with 600 grit before the color and clear. Only a couple more weekends of work before I can paint. I've got a couple committed weekends over the next month and I also have to rely on the weather a little bit but I am getting close.
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Unread 05-11-2010, 09:43 PM   #243
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I hate to be redundant, but **** man that is looking really good! You make me feel unworthy!

Please explain the reason for the multi coats of primer. Since I have painting ahead of me (some day!) I'd like to understand more. Is it standard to apply so many coats, or do you have bad OCD?? Also, on the HVLP guns, can you turn them at an angle to shoot? I'm wondering if that is something that I am really going to need, or is my old gun just fine.
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Unread 05-11-2010, 10:18 PM   #244
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phew thanks for the update, now I can focus on my own life again for a while Yeah might have been kind of a strange first post, but I am riveted with the quality and meticulousness of your work, and absolutely can't wait to see the final product!!!
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Unread 05-11-2010, 11:43 PM   #245
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Quote:
Please explain the reason for the multi coats of primer. Since I have painting ahead of me (some day!) I'd like to understand more. Is it standard to apply so many coats, or do you have bad OCD?? Also, on the HVLP guns, can you turn them at an angle to shoot? I'm wondering if that is something that I am really going to need, or is my old gun just fine
Hey Skerr the most simple answer is to know exactly what primer/paint system you are working with. There are many different primers and primer surfacers out there. If you are using the primer in a non sanding application you can get away with one coat. But I would not recommend this if you have never done body work. Best suggestion is to prep the initial surface for primer.
If the subsurface is not rusted you do not need to go down to bare metal. Bare metal applications require a primer with a self etch characteristic. Most epoxy primers while incredibly durable don't have this, you need to make sure. But if the metal is not rusted there is no need to go bare metal. In that instance I would recommend PPG NCP270/271 corrosion resistant primer.
Now back to your question. The best reason for applying 1 initial coat of primer BEFORE anything else (body fillers, glazing putty) is because you want the best adhesion for those products. Then you will have to sand and I would suggest at least another 2 coats on top of any fillers. The reason why you now want to build up mil thickness is because of the finished product. Basecoat will not bond to any fillers, and are not predictable bonding to original paint. Multiple coats insures that you 1. got good coverage with the primer 2. will promote good adhesion for finish body work 3. will provide a durable foundation for the base coat and finally clear coat system. AND ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS clean the surfaces to be painted..do it..do it often. I have come across hack jobs where guys spray over dirt and detritus. When you lay down paint/primer or any spray on a dirty surface no matter at what stage it will peel, flake, crack your finish work. oils/waxes will cause fisheye in the basecoat.
AS far as part 2 yes hvlp guns will spray at modest angles, no upside down doesnt work. remember the paint is being fed into the gun by gravity so if you hold the gun at extreme angles to spray you will cause the material to sputter in the gun causing irregular spray patterns. As far as the equipment goes this is what I recommend. If you see yourself doing more than one spray job invest in quality tools. When I first started teaching myself I had a $100 POS no name gun. It did the job, but hone the skill and upgrade your equipment. If this is your only spray job you should make do just fine. If this is your first real go at spraying a vehicle, stick with the more basic tools. There is no need to sink like $700 on an Anest Iwata Metallic Gun. The real trick which will make your life ( and finished product) look good is tip size. Larger tips 1.5-1.7 for primers. Use larger tip for more viscous primers (epoxy based). 1.4 tip for basecoats and low solid clears 1.3 tip for metallics, etc. and high solid clears. Ok I'm tired now hope that helps you
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Unread 05-12-2010, 04:08 AM   #246
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Coiz, I admire you dedication to detail and prep.... Fantastic job and I am sure it will be well reflected when complete..... Looking great and I know you are ready to spray the paint to see all your hard well payoff....
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Unread 05-12-2010, 06:41 AM   #247
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There is a down side to Coiz getting his Jeep finished. I'm sure we'll all miss this thread!
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Unread 05-12-2010, 07:28 AM   #248
ErikEastman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Coiz View Post
Pro tip: If your garage doesn't look like this at least once in your life, then you are not a real man.

Rock on.

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Unread 05-12-2010, 07:58 AM   #249
Skerr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BULLITTBUilder View Post
Hey Skerr the most simple answer is to know exactly what primer/paint system you are working with. There are many different primers and primer surfacers out there. If you are using the primer in a non sanding application you can get away with one coat. But I would not recommend this if you have never done body work. Best suggestion is to prep the initial surface for primer.
If the subsurface is not rusted you do not need to go down to bare metal. Bare metal applications require a primer with a self etch characteristic. Most epoxy primers while incredibly durable don't have this, you need to make sure. But if the metal is not rusted there is no need to go bare metal. In that instance I would recommend PPG NCP270/271 corrosion resistant primer.
Now back to your question. The best reason for applying 1 initial coat of primer BEFORE anything else (body fillers, glazing putty) is because you want the best adhesion for those products. Then you will have to sand and I would suggest at least another 2 coats on top of any fillers. The reason why you now want to build up mil thickness is because of the finished product. Basecoat will not bond to any fillers, and are not predictable bonding to original paint. Multiple coats insures that you 1. got good coverage with the primer 2. will promote good adhesion for finish body work 3. will provide a durable foundation for the base coat and finally clear coat system. AND ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS clean the surfaces to be painted..do it..do it often. I have come across hack jobs where guys spray over dirt and detritus. When you lay down paint/primer or any spray on a dirty surface no matter at what stage it will peel, flake, crack your finish work. oils/waxes will cause fisheye in the basecoat.
AS far as part 2 yes hvlp guns will spray at modest angles, no upside down doesnt work. remember the paint is being fed into the gun by gravity so if you hold the gun at extreme angles to spray you will cause the material to sputter in the gun causing irregular spray patterns. As far as the equipment goes this is what I recommend. If you see yourself doing more than one spray job invest in quality tools. When I first started teaching myself I had a $100 POS no name gun. It did the job, but hone the skill and upgrade your equipment. If this is your only spray job you should make do just fine. If this is your first real go at spraying a vehicle, stick with the more basic tools. There is no need to sink like $700 on an Anest Iwata Metallic Gun. The real trick which will make your life ( and finished product) look good is tip size. Larger tips 1.5-1.7 for primers. Use larger tip for more viscous primers (epoxy based). 1.4 tip for basecoats and low solid clears 1.3 tip for metallics, etc. and high solid clears. Ok I'm tired now hope that helps you
Hey BULLITT... Thanks so much for this breakdown. It seems there is as much to know about painting as there is to know about Jeeps! I will save your info in my "How To" file. I paint occassionally, mostly different types of trailers, never have done anything where it really "counted". I have coming up 2 Jeeps to do, one FG and one steel. Coiz is a fiberglass master and he is obviously qualified with steel! Looking to pull a lot from his experience.
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Unread 05-12-2010, 02:20 PM   #250
Coiz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skerr View Post
I hate to be redundant, but **** man that is looking really good! You make me feel unworthy!

Please explain the reason for the multi coats of primer. Is it standard to apply so many coats, or do you have bad OCD??
Maybe a little bit of both in regards to the primer and OCD.

BULLITT pretty much nailed it. The POR was obviously to seal the metal. The Tie-Cote Primer over the POR was to make sure everything would stick to the POR. The filler was obviously to straighten out the panels. No matter how good you think you got the filler there are always a few imperfections that you will not be able to see until it is covered with primer so I applied the typical 2-3 coats of primer on all the panels. Now it is easier to pick out the imperfections so I can go back and do the final touch ups with the Easy Sand filler. Once those are done I will shoot a couple more coats just to make sure everything is covered and uniform in color. All of the painting you see took about 1/2 gallon of primer. Not every piece will need to be coated again so I should have plenty of 2K Primer to finish. I was supposed to have gotten the 2K High Build but actually got the 2K100 Primer by mistake so it is not nearly as thick and did not cover up some of the smaller scratches that I expected it to. If I would of had the High Build, I probably would not need to re-coat many of the parts, if any.

Quote:
Originally Posted by testar77 View Post
phew thanks for the update, now I can focus on my own life again for a while Yeah might have been kind of a strange first post, but I am riveted with the quality and meticulousness of your work, and absolutely can't wait to see the final product!!!
Thanks for the comments.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ErikEastman View Post
Pro tip: If your garage doesn't look like this at least once in your life, then you are not a real man.

Rock on.

LOL, My garage has been looking like that for a couple years now. I just want it back to normal for a few.
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Unread 05-12-2010, 04:26 PM   #251
Coiz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Exposed View Post
Coiz, I admire you dedication to detail and prep.... Fantastic job and I am sure it will be well reflected when complete..... Looking great and I know you are ready to spray the paint to see all your hard well payoff....
Thanks, you're obviously doing some quality work yourself and I am definitely ready to get this thing painted.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim1611 View Post
There is a down side to Coiz getting his Jeep finished. I'm sure we'll all miss this thread!
Thanks but at this point I don't think it will ever be "finished". The list of things to do never seems to get any shorter.
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Unread 05-12-2010, 04:59 PM   #252
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I know what you mean about finishing.. I thought I was through painting last weekend and still painting.. Decided I did not like the bare black plastic look of the wheel molding. So bought some more black basecoat and clear... Will shoot Friday morning...... Hopefully get started assembling soon......
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Unread 05-14-2010, 07:35 AM   #253
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Coiz View Post
Thanks, you're obviously doing some quality work yourself and I am definitely ready to get this thing painted.



Thanks but at this point I don't think it will ever be "finished". The list of things to do never seems to get any shorter.
I know what you mean about the not finishing. Just to get to the point where we can drive them will be a great day though.
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Unread 05-15-2010, 12:08 AM   #254
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Quote:
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Just to get to the point where we can drive them will be a great day though.
I've spent many of sleepless nights dreaming of that day.
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Unread 05-17-2010, 07:14 AM   #255
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Don't think I've taken the time to thank you and all the guys that have posted great information on your thread. I've learned allot of usefull things by following along.

Thanks a bunch!!
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