Coiz 1979 CJ7 Frame Off Resto; picture crazy - Page 16 - JeepForum.com

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post #226 of 1943 Old 04-22-2010, 09:58 PM
motiv8ya
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Coiz,

Thanks, I have a new 15 gallon sender sitting on my shelf, glad to know it'll work. I just need a brass float for it and the retaining ring to bolt it down onto the tank.

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post #227 of 1943 Old 04-28-2010, 04:55 PM Thread Starter
Coiz
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Front Fender Filler Work

I took my freshly painted and primed front fenders and found a few spots that needed a little smoothing out. I gave them a quick sanding with the DAO sander.


Here is the first coat of filler.


Sanded that down.


It probably would have been fine with that but the perfectionist in me put on another skim coat.


That should be pretty dang smooth now.


Passenger's side with another coat of the Tie-primer.


The driver's side came out good too.


Now they will get hand sanded with 220-320 then covered with several coats of the 2K primer before final sanding to paint color.

Mike
My build thread
1979 CJ7, FI 5.0L Ford, NP435, D300, Full floated D44 Detroit, D30 Detroit EZ Locker.
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post #228 of 1943 Old 04-28-2010, 06:45 PM
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Looking great Mike, I am not to far behind you on paint and body work...I am ready to drive it!!!

1978 Cherokee, TBI 360/T400/QT...6.0/6L80/NP241C in the works...
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post #229 of 1943 Old 04-28-2010, 07:19 PM
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Looking great man.... Both of you guys are right behind me.....

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post #230 of 1943 Old 04-29-2010, 05:18 PM Thread Starter
Coiz
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Windshield Frame Filler Work

^^^ Thanks guys, we need to make sure we all don't enter the same CJ of the month competition this fall.


My Craigslist windshield frame needed a little TLC after replacing the wiper arm slots.


There were also a few decent sized dents on the lower section.


Even the top edge of the frame needed a little work. I welded shut all of the extra holes that were in the frame that I would not be needing.


Here is the first coat of filler on the inside section of the frame.


That sanded out pretty nice but still needed another coat of filler.


The second coat applied.


This sanded out pretty nice and should come out good.


The front side of the frame was a little rough and needed some work.


At this point I thought I was mostly done with the front.


I went out the next day and started running my hands up and down the frame with my eyes closed feeling for high and low spots. I decided to try and smooth out that front section a little better.


I know most of the lower lip will be covered by a seal face but WTH. I already have over two years into it, what's another 45 minutes?


I finally finished that off with a light coat of easy sand.


It should be ready for a couple coats of high build primer and hopefully not need any additional filler work. You can't be sure until you get some primer on it.

Mike
My build thread
1979 CJ7, FI 5.0L Ford, NP435, D300, Full floated D44 Detroit, D30 Detroit EZ Locker.

Last edited by Coiz; 04-30-2010 at 10:11 PM.
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post #231 of 1943 Old 04-29-2010, 10:19 PM
Skerr
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Did you have any problems with fish eyes from the DAO? I almost always end up with them when using mine in woodworking. Obviously your finish is great, so I'm guessing you didn't. Is it related to the filler, or sanding disc??

Kerrdog
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post #232 of 1943 Old 04-29-2010, 11:44 PM Thread Starter
Coiz
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The filler is good stuff but I think I mainly avoid it with my technique and the speed setting on the sander. All of the filler pictures your seeing where it has already been sanded were hit with 60 grit by hand while the filler is still a little gummy, to get it close to the right shape, then 220 on the DOA to feather edge and clean up any fish eyes. I've also used a 17" straight air sander with 80, 120 and 240 grit papers at various times.

I don't have one but they actually make an attachment sanding pad that is basically a 1/4" of foam and then the sand paper Velcros to it. Having that soft foam layer helps eliminate fish eyes. A painter showed me one last week and advised me to get one before I use the 600 grit on the final primer. Or he told me to just sand it by hand. We'll see.

Mike
My build thread
1979 CJ7, FI 5.0L Ford, NP435, D300, Full floated D44 Detroit, D30 Detroit EZ Locker.

Last edited by Coiz; 04-30-2010 at 10:05 PM.
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post #233 of 1943 Old 05-01-2010, 08:43 AM Thread Starter
Coiz
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Grill Filler Work

The last main piece needing filler work is the front grill. Here it is scuff sanded and ready for some filler.


All of these spot welds were visible in the original paint before I stripped the grill and repainted with the POR and primer.


Another example of what used to show through the paint.


Laid down the first and only coat of filler.


Sanded out it all feels smooth to the touch.


Almost ready to pull out the 2K primer for all the body parts.

Mike
My build thread
1979 CJ7, FI 5.0L Ford, NP435, D300, Full floated D44 Detroit, D30 Detroit EZ Locker.
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post #234 of 1943 Old 05-01-2010, 08:50 AM
ErikEastman
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Looking good man, can't wait to see some paint on them tins.
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post #235 of 1943 Old 05-01-2010, 09:11 PM
Skerr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Coiz View Post
The filler is good stuff but I think I mainly avoid it with my technique and the speed setting on the sander. All of the filler pictures your seeing where it has already been sanded were hit with 60 grit by hand while the filler is still a little gummy, to get it close to the right shape, then 220 on the DOA to feather edge and clean up any fish eyes. I've also used a 17" straight air sander with 80, 120 and 240 grit papers at various times.

I don't have one but they actually make an attachment sanding pad that is basically a 1/4" of foam and then the sand paper Velcros to it. Having that soft foam layer helps eliminate fish eyes. A painter showed me one last week and advised me to get one before I use the 600 grit on the final primer. Or he told me to just sand it by hand. We'll see.
I had a similar sander (again, woodworking) that was great, but it didn't last long. Apparently, I applied too much pressure while sanding and heated it up. After it got hot it came apart! Be carefull with your pressure.

Is the straight air sander a "must have"? I've been wanting one... this could justify it!

Kerrdog
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But the right word at the right time... "Hey, give me a little hug!" That's the difference between lightning and a harmless lightning bug!
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post #236 of 1943 Old 05-01-2010, 09:25 PM Thread Starter
Coiz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skerr View Post
Is the straight air sander a "must have"? I've been wanting one... this could justify it!
So many panels on the CJ are straight that I would say it was definitely worth the $25 to buy the sander. I bought the three separate rolls but this looks like a steal. Grab an additional roll of 80 and your set.

Mike
My build thread
1979 CJ7, FI 5.0L Ford, NP435, D300, Full floated D44 Detroit, D30 Detroit EZ Locker.
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post #237 of 1943 Old 05-01-2010, 10:30 PM
Skerr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Coiz View Post
So many panels on the CJ are straight that I would say it was definitely worth the $25 to buy the sander. I bought the three separate rolls but this looks like a steal. Grab an additional roll of 80 and your set.
Thanks for the links. This would be good for fiberglass, also?

Kerrdog
Go Fish! <*////><

But the right word at the right time... "Hey, give me a little hug!" That's the difference between lightning and a harmless lightning bug!
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post #238 of 1943 Old 05-01-2010, 10:37 PM Thread Starter
Coiz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skerr View Post
This would be good for fiberglass, also?
Any type of straight sanding, yes.

Speaking of sanding, I have another hour or two in the garage tonight.

Mike
My build thread
1979 CJ7, FI 5.0L Ford, NP435, D300, Full floated D44 Detroit, D30 Detroit EZ Locker.
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post #239 of 1943 Old 05-01-2010, 10:44 PM
Skerr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Coiz View Post
Any type of straight sanding, yes.

Speaking of sanding, I have another hour or two in the garage tonight.
YIKES! Have fun..

Kerrdog
Go Fish! <*////><

But the right word at the right time... "Hey, give me a little hug!" That's the difference between lightning and a harmless lightning bug!
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post #240 of 1943 Old 05-02-2010, 02:36 PM Thread Starter
Coiz
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Roll Bar

The last piece I needed to strip down was the roll bar. Here it is after I was mostly done with the paint stripper and the wire wheel.


I got it all cleaned up with Marine Clean then soaked with Metal Ready for ~45 minutes.


I flipped it over and painted the bottoms of the legs by hand with a couple coats of POR15.


Once that dried the next day I flipped it back over and applied two coats of POR15 through the HVLP gun. After this I was tempted to leave it black.


Since I am painting it to match body color I put on a light coat of the Tie-primer to promote adhesion for my urethane paint.


It is ready for a quick hand sand and then the 2K primer.

Mike
My build thread
1979 CJ7, FI 5.0L Ford, NP435, D300, Full floated D44 Detroit, D30 Detroit EZ Locker.

Last edited by Coiz; 05-03-2010 at 02:53 AM.
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